
Q: I am new to climbing and would like some
pointers for not only getting started, but for
moving to the next level. My experience is
limited to indoor gyms, but I am anxious to get
outside. Can you give me tips on techniques and
strength?
Brenden Fitzgerald
Louisville, Kentucky

Brenden,
The safest and most traditional way to learn how to
climb outside is to hire a guide. Climbing on real rock is
a lot different than climbing plastic and it is also
significantly more dangerous. Unfortunately, a lot of
people inadvertently get in over their heads when
making this transition. A guide can teach you
ropework, belaying, protection placement and most
importantly, mountain sense. Take my advice: it is well
worth a few hundred of your hard earned dollars to
spend a couple/three days getting some private
instruction from a guide before branching out on your
own.
If you have NO money, or already feel quite confident
about your abilities, the best place to start on your own
would be with either bouldering or toproping. With both
of these activities you can grapple with real rock and
work your technique, without undertaking much of a
commitment.
As for strength training, what you're already doing in
the gym is probably great. Climbing plastic is a great
way to get strong for the real thing, and you should
probably keep it going even after you begin climbing
outdoors. In addition, I like to do routines on my finger
board at homemostly dead hangs (not pullups)
because they are easier on the tendons and joints. I also
do a lot of trail running, situps, dips and pushups. When
it comes right down to it, the best training for climbing
is climbing, and it's obviously also the most fun.
Most importantly, get out onto the real rock as soon as
possible. Gym climbing is a great foundation, but it
really can't compare to pulling down in the great
outdoors.