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Ask the Expert
Big-Wall Warrior Mark Synnott Answers
Your Climbing Queries
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Wanting to get into big wall. Have many years free-climbing
experience. Just want to challenge myself on climbs normally I
couldn't free. What's the basic equipment needed? How
else does a beginner learn this art?
Jody Duggins, Waynesville, North Carolina
Jody,
If you are already a good free climber, you will likely find aid climbing
very easy. Aid climbing is more or less purely mechanical and does not
require a great deal of strength or technique. The equipment you need to
get started is a pair of etriers, and some daisy chains. You can buy these
for about [U.S.]$60 or make your own. The book Freedom of the
Hills has a description on how to make your own out of webbing
which you can buy at any mountain shop. I started out with a homemade
pair, though if you're sure you are going to get into aid climbing it
is probably just worth buying real onesmuch nicer. The process is
simple. Find an easy crack at your local crag. Place a piece above your
head to start. You'll have both the daisy chains girth-hitched into
your harness, with etriers attached to the ends of each one. Clip one of
these into the piece you placed, jumping up and down on it a bit at first to
ensure that it will hold your weight. Climb as high up the etrier as you can
get, then clip a carabiner on your harness into the daisy chain to hold you
in place. Repeat the process, alternating daisies and etriers all the way up
the pitch, leapfrog style. The best bet is to start out on a toprope until you
have your systems dialed. Have fun!
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About Our Expert
"A lot of people don't realize it, but the only thing you really need to climb
big walls, or any big route, is determination," says Mark Synnott. OK. But
what else does it take to best a big wall?
E-mail Mark and he'll give you the skinny on everything from grub to
gear to getting started. And he should know.
Mark has bagged more than 50 big walls, including Argentina's Cerro
Torre and first ascents on Canada's Baffin Island and southern Asia's
Karakoram Range. And when he's not climbing, he's helping design new
North Face equipment or contributing to magazines like National
Geographic, Outside, and Climbing.
E-mail Mark
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 Climber Mark Synnott
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