The coal's mostly gone, but there's still water, and lots of it, churning between the high banks of West Virginia's New, Meadow, and Gauley Rivers. The hardworking hydrology has carved big, beautiful gorges with hundred-foot [31-meter] cliffs that lure climbers and created white-water playholes and standing waves that make for some of the finest kayaking on the continent.

The area's sports-fueled resurgence has led to an odd social stratification: Blue-collar Fayetteville soldiers on in the middle of town, while adventure outfitters thrive on the outskirts. There's no sign of Hatfield-McCoy-style tensions, though.

All prices in U.S. dollars
 

Access
The closest airport is in Charleston, West Virginia, about 60 miles [97 kilometers] northwest.

Kayaking
The renowned upper reaches of the Gauley, from the Summersville Dam downriver to the Mason Branch takeout, attract expert paddlers with its Class III to V-plus rapids.

Beginners and intermediates head to the Class II to V white water on the New River. Two-day beginner courses with ACE Adventure Center (888 223 7238 [U.S. and Canada only]; www.aceraft.com) start at $230.

Climbing
Upriver and downriver from Fayetteville, some 2,000 climbs line the cliffs of the New River Gorge, the majority 5.9 or harder. The largest uninterrupted face is a 3-mile [4.8-kilometer] section called Endless Wall.

New River Mountain Guides (+1 304 574 3872; www.newrivergorge.net) customizes climbing courses, which start at $65 per person.

Biking
The Cunard-Kaymoor Trail follows the rim of the New River Gorge for six scenic miles [ten kilometers]. Full-day, front-suspension rentals at Ridge Rider Mountain Bikes (800 890 2453 [U.S. and Canada only]; www.ridgerider.com) are $35.

Rafting
Daylong trips on the New and the Gauley with Class VI River Runners (800 252 7784 [U.S. and Canada only]; www.800classvi.com) are $100 per person.

Room and Board
Cabins at nearby Opossum Creek Retreat ($100; 888 488 4836 [U.S. and Canada only]; www.opossumcreek.com) have hot tubs on screened porches.

Class VI River Runners operates a bar where you can drink West Virginia beer and watch the sunset over the gorge.

Resources
New River Convention and Visitors Bureau (+1 304 465 5617; www.newrivercvb.com)