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Trips
Magic Mountains
Multisport by day, B&B by nightwelcome to New Hampshire's white wonderland
By Michael Benoist DAY 2: After making good on the breakfast portion of your B&B contract, get a soup-to-nuts primer on the rise of Nordic skiing in the U.S. at the New England Ski Museum, nine miles north of the Wilderness Inn. Next, put the history lesson to practice. Avoid the hordes at storied Bretton Woods and opt instead for the 43 miles (69 kilometers) of less-crowded, equally groomed and wooded trails at Bear Notch Ski Touring Center. Cruise the trail systems along the Saco River (read: flat) with views of 200-plus-foot (over 61 meters) Arethusa Falls and the high peaks of the Presidentials. Splurge on a cottage with a fireplace at the Bartlett Inn, which is less than a mile from the ski center. DAY 3: Register in advance for a daylong ice climbing clinic at Cathedral Ledge, Crawford Notch, or any of the area's reliably spectacular sites. Or, better yet, if you're in town February 10-13, take part in the granddaddy of ice climbing jamboreesthe Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival. Test cutting-edge gear while you dig into a two-story ice tower at Cranmore Mountain Resort, or reserve a climbing legend like Barry Blanchard for a day of one-on-one instruction ($225). The third of three B&Bs, the Jackson House, is eight miles (13 kilometers) north in Jacksonwhere, unlike other area towns, covered bridges outnumber strip malls. DAY 4: Feast on a breakfast of baked walnut French toast, then hook up with guides at EMS in North Conway and, conditions permitting, defy the laws of both gravity and friction, courtesy of the blustery air at Lake Winnipesaukeeone of the country's premier snowkiting venues. After zipping along on arctic gusts, the drive home will be a breeze. VITALS:
The Wilderness Inn ($55; www.thewildernessinn.com)
New England Ski Museum (www.skimuseum.org)
Bear Notch Ski Touring Center ($8 a day; www.bearnotchski.com)
The Bartlett Inn ($144 for a private cottage; www.bartlettinn.com)
Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival (www.ime-usa.com)
Jackson House ($59; www.jacksonhousenh.com)
EMS Guides ($50 for a daylong lesson; +1 603 356 5433)
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