Sixty-four years later, writer Matthew Power and photographer Bobby Model retrace one of climbing's most extraordinary escapades. Photograph by Bobby Model
This is Alex Fiksman at the summit of Batian, which is 17,058 feet [5,199 meters], looking across the Gates of the Mist towards Nelion. We had to climb from there down two rope lengths and up two pitches to this snow bridge. By the time we finnished, it was pitch dark so we crossed with head lamps. We climbed in the absolute darkest dark of the equatorial night.
We ascended the the snow field on the left there up to the Howl Hut. The snow field basically slid off to a 1,000-foot [305-meter] drop. It was pretty terrifying, but incredible.
Bobby Model led us up the final pitch. When I got to the top, he was belaying me. I found him just sitting there without actually being anchored to anything. I realized that he had just been holding me up with his own wits. —Contributing Editor Matthew Power
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