No rules, no ropes, no restrictions: Skiing or snowboarding the backcountry is the quickest way to find untouched snow, and Teton Pass is one of the easiest places in the U.S. to do so. Here's how to do it right.
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Skiing the Pass: Highway 22 runs east-west over Teton Pass between Jackson, Wyoming, and Victor, Idaho. Most ski and snowboard tours begin at the summit parking lot at mile marker 11 (18 kilometers). Terrain on the north side of 22 tends to be steep, while the south side is more mellow. Mount Glory is the closest and most popular spot for visitors coming from Jackson, and runs drop on all four sides of the peak. The hike up takes an hour if you're in moderate shape. Oliver Peak (where the author toured) is accessed from a pullout on the Idaho side of the pass at mile marker 17 (28 kilometers). It offers steeper runs and, likely, greater solitude.
Staying Safe: All skiers and boarders planning to explore the pass must be well versed in avalanche safety. If you're at all rusty, consider a three-day course with Exum Mountain Guides ($185; www.exumguides.com) to brush up on rescue and route-finding techniques. Visitors should also come equipped with avalanche transceivers, snow shovels, and probes. Also, though most skiers hitchhike, it is illegal. It's best to arrange your own car shuttle.
Going Guided: To break into the backcountry, resort skiers should get instruction before hitting Teton Pass. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort offers guide services ($520 a day for up to three guests; www.jacksonhole.com) that scour the surrounding wilds of Bridger-Teton National Forest while giving you an introduction to snow safety. As an alternative, novices can ski the pass with a guide from Rendezvous Backcountry Tours ($195 a day; www.skithetetons.com).
Getting Settled: Fly into Jackson Hole Airport and base yourself in Teton Village at the foot of the resort; the pass is a 20-minute drive away. Hostel X ($58; www.hostelx.com) is a popular choice among ski bums. More upscale is the luxurious Teton Mountain Lodge ($209; www.tetonlodge.com), which has a spa.
More Backcountry Made Easy
Three world-class spots to plunge into billowing, out-of-bounds powder.
Tamarack Resort
The first major ski area to open in the United States in decades, western Idaho's Tamarack Resort is downhill skiing reimagined. With the northern and southern boundaries wide open to backcountry skiers, the resort boasts some 5,000 acres (2,023 hectares) of off-piste terrain. The skiing is stunning, all powder and trees, and (perk!) once you make it down to the area's frontage road, you can call for a free van pickup. New this year: Guides are available to lead visitors into much of the backcountry.
VITALS: Tamarack is two hours northwest of Boise, and can be skied by the day ($58 for passes; www.tamarackidaho.com). Set up base camp in the nearby town of McCall. The Hotel McCall ($130; +1 208 634 8105) serves complimentary wine in the afternoon and milk and cookies at night.
Tuckerman Ravine
The original "people's backcountry," Tuckerman Ravine, in New Hampshire, is a massive glacial cirque hanging high atop wind-scoured Mount Washington. Generations of skiers have cut their teeth in the east-facing bowl, and the ravine's continued appeal comes from its easy access, consistently deep snow (an average of 30 feet [9 meters] a year), and the fact that it doesn't require specialized equipment—just haul up your snowboard or Alpine skis. From the end of March to mid-May, Tucks can get crowded; weekends might see 3,000 visitors (and their dogs … and their kegs). Don't let the party vibe distract you: Avalanches can occur, and Mount Washington threatens some of the nastiest weather in the lower 48.
VITALS: Three hours north of Boston, Tucks is best accessed from the town of North Conway. The comfortable North Conway Grand Hotel ($89; www.northconwaygrand.com) is a 45-minute drive from the ravine. For details, go to www.tuckerman.org.
Tioga Pass Resort
California Highway 120, the eastern gateway to Yosemite National Park, is closed by massive snowfall all winter and well into spring, but Sierra locals have a secret: Tioga Pass Resort. The set of hike-in or skin-in cabins is open all season, offers three meals a day, and is surrounded by peaks that quickly rise to 13,000 feet (3,962 meters) and slopes that plummet to 7,500 feet (2,286 meters). Do the math: You're looking at descents over a vertical mile in length.
VITALS: Skiers approach Tioga Pass Resort via six-mile (10-kilometer) path off Highway 120. The heated cabins ($120; www.tiogapassresort.com) are private, and some hold up to six guests.
Read about backcountry skiing at Teton Pass >>
See more Teton Pass skiing photos >>
Find out how to ski all year long >>
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