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Greg Noll,
Surfing, Shaping Legend
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Q+A: Greg Noll on Surfing as Art, Life
Adventure spoke to big-wave legend Greg Noll about his new book, surfing culture today, and why his most recent boards provide a link to the past.
Text by Ryan Bradley   Photograph courtesy Gibbs Smith

Photo: Jed Noll shaping a board


THE SHAPE OF THINGS: Greg's son, Jed Noll, evens out the rough outline of a balsa wood board with a skil-saw.

 << Photo 2 of 3 >>



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Your son, Jed Noll—who is also a shaper—must provide some connection as well.
Noll: I'm very proud of my son for picking up this tradition—for slowing down and honoring his roots. You don't spend the kind of time we do on these boards unless it's in your blood, and you love what you're doing. For me, it just probably doesn't get any better than to be able to collaborate. I'm 70, my son's 32, and we're like two little kids out there giggling over a piece of art.


Apart from giggling, what is the shaping process like?
Noll: There's a lot of sitting around and thinking, especially at first. When I shape a board I have to see the thing in my mind before I pick up a plain or a tool.

Continue reading the interview >>
 

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