Greg Noll,
Surfing, Shaping Legend
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Q+A: Greg Noll on Surfing as Art, Life
Adventure spoke to big-wave legend Greg Noll about his new book, surfing culture today, and why his most recent boards provide a link to the past.
Text by Ryan Bradley Photograph courtesy Gibbs Smith
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WITH THE GRAIN: For his handmade surfboards, Greg Noll draws on traditional methods and materials used by Hawaiians more than 200 years ago.
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You quit shaping in the 1970s, what brought you back to it?
Noll: My heart is so much with the ocean. I fish and dive. Every once in a while, if I can find a place where nobody will laugh at me, I'll get out and fall off a surfboard. But the shaping of these boards and honoring the tradition is my way of being a part of it. It's a way of keeping myself focused on a really special time of my life.
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