In late fall and winter, a driving circuit around Cape Ann (Chamber of Commerce +1 978 283 1601) can be productive for loons, grebes, ducks, gulls, and other waterbirds. It can also be a bone-chilling experience when wind exacerbates frigid temperatures. Massachusetts 127 and 127A travel the perimeter of this peninsula extending north from Gloucester. Following those routes and checking side roads with access to the ocean is a good idea, but two spots on the north part of the cape, beyond Rockport, are especially fine lookout points. Before heading out, you may want to stop in Gloucester at Stage Fort Park or Pavilion Beach (both off Massachusetts 127) to look over the harbor. Great numbers of gulls are attracted to the fishing fleet here, and you’ll often find Iceland and Glaucous among the common species. Barrow’s Goldeneye has been seen here, though it’s rare, and occasionally something as odd as Thick-billed Murre will appear in this sheltered area.
In Rockport, take Massachusetts 127 north from the junction with 127A for 1.9 miles [3.1 kilometers] and turn east (right) on Phillips Avenue. Go 1 block to Cathedral Ledge, a prime spot to look for small rafts of Harlequin Ducks from November to May. Expect to see Red-throated and Common Loons; Horned and Red-necked Grebes; Northern Gannet; Great and Double-crested Cormorants; Common Eider; Surf, White-winged, and Black Scoters; Oldsquaw; Common Goldeneye; Red-breasted Merganser; Black Guillemot; gulls; and, down on the rocks, small flocks of Purple Sandpipers. Be on the alert for King Eider and Barrow’s Goldeneye. When northeast winds blow, uncommon species such as Northern Fulmar, Black-legged Kittiwake, Thick-billed Murre, Razorbill, or Atlantic Puffin may appear.
For those willing to walk less than a half mile [0.8 kilometer] to an observation point, Halibut Point State Park offers an even better panorama of the Atlantic and its birdlife. Retu rn to Massachusetts 127 north and drive a short distance to Gott Avenue. Turn right, park in the lot provided, and follow the entrance path across the street. The picturesque headland here, certainly ranking as one of the state’s premier birding spots, provides excellent viewing of the pelagic species that fly past this Cape Ann extremity in fall and winter. During onshore winds in summer and fall, this spot can be good for shearwaters and jaegers, too.
