At mile 176.2, Mabry Mill (+1 540 952 2947. May-Oct.) demonstrates the importance of self-sufficiency in this remote corner. Far from any towns, local farmers relied on the ingenuity of Ed Mabry, who built this gristmill, along with a sawmill and blacksmith shop, in the early 1900s.
To learn to identify the kinds of split-rail fences that divide the farmlands and edge the roadsides, stop at Groundhog Mountain (Mile 188.8), where an exhibit identifies snake rail, buck rail, and post-and-rail; a fire tower here yields sweeping views of the high country.
The road continues south, with the distinct outline of Pilot Mountain on the eastern horizon. At mile 216.9, it crosses the state line into North Carolina and the rolling plateau begins to build into the soaring mountains and deep valleys of Pisgah National Forest (+1 828 257 4200).
With its array of regional crafts, antiques, and homemade pastries, the Northwest Trading Post at mile 258.6 adds local color. Beyond, the solitary bulk of Mount Jefferson looms over the town of Jefferson as the road drops down into Deep Gap. This wild, rugged area was known only to the Cherokee and buffalo in the late 1700s when Daniel Boone, a nearby resident, forged a path through here to Kentucky. Look for Boone’s Trace at mile 285.1.
The road continues past Blowing Rock, a pleasant mountain resort, and Moses H. Cone Memorial Park (Mile 292-5. +1 828 295 7938. March-Jan.). Built as a mountain retreat by Cone, a textile magnate, the manor houses a Visitor Center and the Parkway Craft Center.
Just down the road hulks 5,964-foot [1,877.8-meter] Grandfather Mountain, highest mountain in the Blue Ridge and one of the oldest in the world. (Geologists say its quartzite is over a billion years old.) Head west 1 mile [1.6 kilometers] on U.S. 221, then take the 2-mile [3.2-kilometer] entrance road that twists up to a Visitor Center (800 468 7325). Here, you’ll find spectacular views and a pedestrian swing bridge crossing to Linville Peak.
Back on the parkway, the drive now encounters the “missing link,” the last 7.5-mile [2.3-kilometer] section of the road, completed in 1987. To preserve Grandfather Mountain’s fragile environment, 153 precast segments specifically fitting the contours of the mountain were used to build the S-shaped Linn Cove Viaduct, which snakes along the mountain’s rocky slopes. At the Linn Cove Parking Area (Mile 304.4. +1 828 733 1354), a trail leads to a view of the elevated roadway.
The terrain’s ruggedness persists at Linville Falls Recreation Area (Mile 316.5. Follow spur road 1.4 miles [2.3 kilometers] along Linville River. +1 828 765 1045. Mid-April–Oct.). Here, the river drops over rock ledges then flows between 2,000-foot-high [610-meter-high] walls—the deepest cleft this side of the Grand Canyon. The mile-long [1.6 kilometer-long] trail to the falls passes through one of the few remaining virgin stands of eastern hemlocks.
As you continue, the parkway enters the mining district of Spruce Pine, where 57 different types of minerals are found, including emeralds and rubies. To learn more, stop at the Museum of North Carolina Minerals (Mile 331. +1 828 765 2761. Open 7 days May-Oct., rest of year tentative; No adm. fee).
Farther south, the parkway explores beautiful forests. The big bold Black Mountains, named for the black-green Fraser fir and red spruce that carpet their slopes, rise darkly in the distance.
Beyond Crabtree Meadows Recreation Area (Mile 339.5. +1 828 675 4236. May-Oct.), the road begins its last climb on the Blue Ridge. Views widen of surrounding blue peaks and the vegetation changes from that of southern forests to northern spruces and firs.
After about 15 miles [24.1 kilometers], the highway leaves the Blue Ridge at Ridge Junction and begins its traverse across a jumble of colliding ranges. It briefly skirts the southern edge of the Black Mountains, then at Balsam Gap begins a tipsy ride across the Great Craggy Mountains. At Black Mountain Gap, a 5-mile [8-kilometer] detour on Rte. 128 climbs Mount Mitchell (Visitor Center +1 828 675 4611), at 6,684 feet [2,037.3 meters] the highest peak in the East. A short walk leads to the summit, where a sweater is needed for the Canadian-like climate (snow in July is not impossible).
Back on the parkway just past mile 361, look for views of Glassmine Falls tumbling down Horse Range Ridge, and of Graybeard Mountain, a prominent Blue Ridge peak that, if surrounded by clouds, indicates rain.
In mid-June, the slopes of Craggy Dome are carpeted with the red- purple blossoms of catawba rhododendron. The Craggy Gardens Visitor Center (Mile 364.6. May-Oct.) has exhibits on heath gardens.