There could hardly be a more beautiful spot to see high-country birds than Rocky Mountain National Park, encompassing more than 400 square miles [1,036 square kilometers] of meadows, coniferous woodland, and tundra, all lying astraddle the Continental Divide. The park’s famed Trail Ridge Road (usually open Mem. Day—mid-Oct.) climbs through spruce-fir forest to run for several miles above tree line, offering an alpine experience for those unable to climb, and other roads provide access to a varied habitats. For those who enjoy hiking, the potential for exploration is limitless.
Entering the park from Estes Park at the Beaver Meadows entrance, turn south toward Bear Lake. At Moraine Park, turn west to the Cub Lake Trail and walk through the marshy riparian area of the Big Thompson River and up the valley toward the lake. Look for Northern Pygmy-Owl (rarely seen, but listen for the “scolding” notes of songbirds mobbing an owl they’ve spotted in daylight), Broad-tailed Hummingbird, Williamson’s and Red-naped Sapsuckers, Northern Flicker, Western Wood-Pewee, Plumbeous Vireo, Steller’s Jay, Black-billed Magpie, Violet-green Swallow, Black-capped and Mountain Chickadees, Pygmy Nuthatch, Townsend’s Solitaire, MacGillivray’s and Wilson’s Warblers, Western Tanager, Lincoln’s Sparrow, and Black-headed Grosbeak, among others. (Farther north, the road to the Endovalley Picnic Area offers excellent spots for most of these species.)
Backtrack to Bear Lake Road, where, past Hollowell Park, you’ll be driving along Glacier Creek. Stop anywhere here, sit on a streamside rock, and the odds are pretty good that an American Dipper will fly up before long. Farther on, the flat, easy loop around Sprague Lake is a good place to look for many of the same birds mentioned for the Cub Lake Trail. The road climbs to end at 9,475 feet [2,888 meters] at Bear Lake, where Hammond’s Flycatcher, Gray Jay, Clark’s Nutcracker, Yellow-rumped Warbler, and Cassin’s Finch might be found. Looking south from the parking lot at dusk, some people have been lucky enough to see Black Swifts flying toward nesting sites behind nearby waterfalls.
From Bear Lake, and from Glacier Gorge Junction back down the road a short distance, some of the park’s nicest trails head out through deep forests to such stunning destinations as Mills Lake, The Loch, and Odessa Lake. Many of the park’s special birds, such as Northern Goshawk, Blue Grouse, Northern Pygmy-Owl, Williamson’s Sapsucker, Three-toed Woodpecker, Pine Grosbeak, and Red Crossbill, are present but irregular in occurrence. To see them, you simply need to walk trails and stay alert—the more you walk, the better your chances.
The same can be said for White-tailed Ptarmigan, that elusive resident of the tundra. If you trudge along trails above tree line long enough, you’ll eventually find this chickenlike bird in its brownish summer plumage. From Bear Lake, the trail up to Flattop Mountain and Hallett Peak is as good as any. If you’re not ready for a strenuous hike, ptarmigan are regularly found along Trail Ridge Road.
Take this awesomely scenic route west from Deer Ridge Junction, stopping at Rainbow Curve, just past the “Two Miles Above Sea Level” sign, to enjoy the view and the Gray Jays and Clark’s Nutcrackers that are always present. Soon you’ll enter the tundra world; about 2 miles [3.2 kilometers] from Rainbow Curve, watch for a parking area for the Old Ute Trail on the south. You might find ptarmigan by hiking a bit of this trail, or farther on at the Tundra Nature Trail at the popular Rock Cut area. (Be aware that simply walking at this elevation requires great exertion and can be dangerous for those with health problems.) Brown-capped Rosy-Finch is also found along Trail Ridge Road at times, but can be quite elusive. Look in rocky areas and along the edges of snowbanks and ice fields. The L ava Cliffs area, a short distance west, is often productive. Continue to the Alpine Visitor Center for rest rooms and refreshment. Just beyond, at Medicine Bow Curve, a trail from the parking area leads northeast across the tundra. Ptarmigan are sometimes seen a quarter mile [0.4 kilometer] or so along this path, downhill near the wind-stunted shrubs.
