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Yellowstone National Park
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Orientation
Yellowstone is a geological smoking gun that reminds us of how violent the earth can be. One event overshadows all others: Some 600,000 years ago, an area many square miles at what is now the center of the park suddenly exploded. In minutes the landscape was devastated. Fast-moving ash flows covered thousands of square miles. At the center there remained only a smoldering caldera, a collapsed crater 28 by 47 miles [45.1 by 75.6 kilometers]. At least two other cataclysmic events preceded this one. Boiling hot springs, fumaroles, and geysers serve as reminders that another could occur.
Yellowstone, however, is much more than hot ground and gushing steam. Located astride the Continental Divide, most of the park occupies a high plateau surrounded by mountains and drained by several rivers. Park boundaries enclose craggy peaks, alpine lakes, deep canyons, and vast forests. In 1872, Yellowstone became the world’s first national park, the result of great foresight on the part of many people about our eventual need for the solace and beauty of wild places.
In early years, what made Yellowstone stand out was the extravaganza of geysers and hot springs. The wild landscape and the bison, elk, and bears were nice but, after all, America was still a pioneer country filled with scenic beauty and animals.
As the west was settled, however, Yellowstone’s importance as a wildlife sanctuary grew. The list of park animals is a compendium of Rocky Mountain fauna: elk, bison, mule deer, bighorn sheep, grizzly bear, black bear, moose, pronghorn, coyote, mountain lion, beaver, trumpeter swan, eagle, osprey, white pelican, and more.
During the summer of 1988, fire touched many sections of the park, in some areas dramatically changing the appearance of the landscape. Yet not one major feature was destroyed. The geysers, waterfalls, and herds of wildlife are still here. Many places show no impact at all, while those that are regenerating benefit both vegetation and animal life. Side by side, burned areas and nonburned areas provide an intriguing study in the causes and effects of fire in wild places. Yellowstone has witnessed bigger natural events than this and may well again.
Of far greater concern to environmentalists than the fires are the impact of increasing numbers of visitors, the dwindling grizzly bear population, and, on nearby lands, the planned geothermal development and oil and gas drilling. Cooperative management between the park and the seven forests that make up the greater Yellowstone ecosystem is essential if wildlife and thermal features are to survive.
When to Go
More than half of the 3 million annual visitors come in July and August. In September and early October, the weather is good, the visitors few, and the wildlife abundant. In May and June, you can see newborn animals, but the weather may be cold, wet, and even snowy. Between about November 1 and May 1 most park roads are closed to vehicles.
During the winter season, mid-December to mid-March, Yellowstone becomes a fantasy of steam and ice; facilities are limited but sufficient. Only the road between the North and Northeast Entrances stays open to cars, but snowmobiling is permitted on unplowed roads. Heated snow coaches offer tours and give cross-country skiers access to the 50 miles [80.5 kilometers] of groomed trails.
Statistics
- Area: 2,221,766 acres [899,116.8 hectares]
- Date Established: March 1, 1872
- State: Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana
Getting There
By Plane
- West Yellowstone Airport (WYS) at the West Entrance of Yellowstone. (This airport is open June through September.)
- Cody Airport (COD) about 50 miles [81 kilometers] from the park
- Jackson Hole Airport (JAC) about 60 miles [97 kilometers] from the park.
- Gallitin Field Airport,(BZN) about 90 miles [145 kilometers] from the park.
- Fanning Field, Idaho Falls (IDA) about 110 miles [177 kilometers] from the park.
- Billings Logan International Airport (BIL) about 120 miles [193 kilometers] from the park.
By Car
- There are five entrances: from the west, West Yellowstone (Montana); from the north and northeast, Gardiner and Cooke City (Montana); from the east, on US 14/16/20 from Cody (Wyoming); and from the south, at Flagg Ranch (Wyoming), which is north of Grand Teton National Park and Jackson (64 miles [103 kilometers] away). Airports are at West Yellowstone (summer only), Bozeman, and Billings in Montana; and at Cody and Jackson in Wyoming.
How to Visit
The 142-mile [228.5-kilometer] Grand Loop Road forms a figure eight, with connecting spurs to the five entrances. In early years, visitors took a week going around the loop—still a good idea. On any visit, start with the geyser basins and Mammoth Hot Springs to see wildlife and thermal features (caution: both can be hazardous if approached too closely). On the second day, travel to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Hayden Valley, and Yellowstone Lake.
On a longer stay, visit the Northern Range, or consider a boating or fishing trip on Yellowstone Lake; a backcountry excursion on foot or horse; or any of the numerous easy nature trails throughout the park.
Your best chance of seeing wildlife is in early morning or evening.
Activities
Free naturalist-led activities: nature walks, camera walks, evening programs. Also available, hiking, boating, fishing (permit required), horseback riding (stables at Roosevelt, Canyon, and Mammoth), bicycling, stagecoach rides, courses in natural history and photography, art exhibits, childrens activities, bus and boat tours, snow-coach tours, cross-country skiing, ice-skating, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling.
Park Information
Headquarters P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming 82190. Phone +1 307 344 7381.
Seasons & Accessibility Park open year-round. Road from North Entrance to Northeast Entrance open all year; most other park roads closed to cars November through April. Call headquarters for latest weather and road conditions.
Visitor & Information Centers Mammoth Hot Springs/Albright Visitor Center open daily all year. Old Faithful Visitor Center open May through Oct. and mid-Dec. to mid-March, depending on weather. Canyon Village Visitor Center, near center of park, and Fishing Bridge and Grant Village Visitor Centers, on Yellowstone Lake, open May through Sept. (reduced hours in Sept.).
Entrance Fees $20 per vehicle, good for one week at both Yellowstone and Grand Teton. $40 annual.
Facilities for Disabled Visitor centers, Madison and Fishing Bridge Campgrounds, most rest rooms, amphitheaters, numerous ranger-led activities, walks, and exhibits are wheelchair accessible. Free brochure available.
Overnight Backpacking Permits required. They are free and available at visitor centers and ranger stations; apply in person not more than 48 hours in advance of use.
Campgrounds Twelve campgrounds all with 7-day limit (except Fishing Bridge RV Park) from June 16 to August 25; other times 30-day limit. Mammoth open all year, others open late spring to mid-fall. Reservations accepted for Fishing Bridge RV Park, Madison, Grant Village, Canyon Village, and Bridge Bay; contact AmFac Parks & Resorts, Yellowstone NP, Wyoming 82190. +1 307 344 7311. All others first come, first served. Fees $6-$12.50 per night; Fishing Bridge RV Park $23. Pay showers near several campgrounds. Both tent and RV sites at most campgrounds; at Fishing Bridge RV Park hard-sided units only. Hookups at Fishing Bridge RV Park only. For group campgrounds, reserve through A mFac Parks & Resorts. Food services in park.
Lodging
Hotels, Motels, & Inns (unless otherwise noted, rates are for 2 persons in a double room, high season)
INSIDE THE PARK:
The following are operated by TW Services, Inc., Yellowstone NP, Wyoming 82190. Open generally June to Sept. except where noted. For reservations call +1 307 344 7311.
Canyon Lodge 609 cabins. $48-$93. Restaurant. Grant Village 300 units. $68-$84. Restaurant. Open May through Sept. Lake Lodge & Cabins 186 cabins. $43-$84. Restaurant. Open June to mid-Sept. Lake Yellowstone Hotel & Cabins 296 units. units. Hotel $63-$342; cabins $63. Restaurant. Open mid-May through Sept. Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel & Cabins 126 cabins; 96 rooms. $34-$65. Rest. Open May to Oct. Old Faithful Inn 325 units. $47-$289. Restaurant. Open early May to late Oct. Old Faithful Lodge & Cabins 132 cabins, 85 with private baths. $22-$38. Open mid-May to late Sept. Old Faithful Snow Lodge & Cabins 31 rooms; 34 cabins. $47-$84. Restaurant. Open mid-May to mid-Oct. and mid-Dec. to mid-March. Roosevelt Lodge & Cabins 80 cabins. $24-$63. Restaurant. Open mid-June to late August.
See also Grand Teton NP listings.
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