There are no facilities, except picnic areas with restrooms, along the length of the Kancamagus—so bring a full gas tank and stock up on food and drink. Don't forget sturdy shoes, because to really explore the "Kanc," you'll want to leave your car and wander some of the many trails en route.

Throw in a fishing rod or a swimsuit to take advantage of rushing rivers. Grab your binoculars for bird-watching. Most of all, bring a sense of adventure—the very best accompaniment for this White Mountain journey.

The western end of the Kancamagus, at Lincoln, New Hampshire, is located at exit 32 on I-93. Plan on two hours driving from Boston, five and a half from New York.

On the East, the highway begins on Route 16 near Conway, New Hampshire, some two and a half hours from Boston and six from New York.

Lincoln

This parking area and information center is a gateway to fantastic hiking up the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River and beyond into the wild country of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. It's about 5.5 miles (9 kilometers) east of Lincoln. As elsewhere along the highway, the walking routes here are limited only by time and energy.

Lincoln is the last stop before the wild character of the Kanc takes over.

Lincoln Woods

On the west end of the highway (the more easily accessible end) is the commercial resort town of Lincoln. The resort community is home to the full array of travel services as well as the Hobo Railroad scenic train ride along the Pemigewasset River.

The very popular Lincoln Woods trail begins on the porch of the information center and soon crosses the river on a long suspension bridge. From the bridge it gradually climbs an old logging-railroad bed up the west side of the river with many beautiful vistas. Some 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) up the trail, a short side trail leads to the idyllic Franconia Falls—a spot so beautiful that high-season visitors must get a free permit at the information center to visit the falls.

For a less-crowded hike from this area, try the other side of the river. The Pemi East Side Trail is another gradual walk up the river valley. The first several miles are on a narrow gravel road not open to vehicular traffic. At about 2.75 miles (4.5 kilometers) it reaches the walk-in Franconia Brook Campsite, a great choice for an overnight backpack in this scenic valley.

Sabbaday Falls

Some 14 miles (22.5 kilometers) from Route 16 is the Sabbaday Falls picnic area. The falls themselves, a dramatic 40-foot (12-meter) cataract, plunge into an attractive pool reached by a short gravel trail behind the picnic area.

Rocky Gorge Scenic Area

Witness the timeless work of water at this scenic stop, where the Swift River has slowly carved its way through a granite gorge. The gorge is a great place to linger. Or stretch your legs with a short walk to nearby Falls Pond.

The Lovequist Loop crosses the gorge on a bridge, then rambles out and around the scenic pond with views of Bear Mountain beyond. (Round-trip, the hike is about 1 mile/1.6 kilometers.) Rocky Gorge is located about 8.5 miles (13.5 kilometers) west of Route 16.

Bear Notch Road

This seasonal road is located about 13 miles (21 kilometers) west of Conway. It winds its way north of the Kancamagus, through scenic Bear Notch, and on to the crossroads village of Bartlett. Vistas on this route are superb, especially north of the notch, and the road offers a less-traveled entrée to the attractions of the Mount Washington Valley.

Lower Falls

Lower Falls just may be the most popular family swimming hole on the highway. The large parking lot can be crowded, but the falls promise a wet and wild time and do not disappoint. The area boasts a series of rapids and natural swimming pools, a picnic site, and restrooms. Lower Falls is located about 8 miles (13 kilometers) from Conway.

Franconia Notch

The legendary Old Man of the Mountain appears on everything from New Hampshire license plates to quarters. But a rock slide drove this face-shaped formation from its rocky Franconia Notch perch in May 2003. The pass (White Mountain passes are known locally as notches) is still well worth the drive, however, and you'll want a sunroof to take in the dramatic cliffs as you pass Mount Lafayette to the east and Cannon Mountain to the west.

Cannon Mountain is one of skiing's U.S. birthplaces and is home to the New England ski museum. The aerial tramway here takes passengers to the Cannon summit throughout much of the year—as it has for nearly 70 years.

The notch is also home to the Flume Gorge. The flume itself is a dramatic 800-foot (244-meter) waterfall that has drawn tourists since the 19th century. Short trails (or shuttle buses) lead from the visitor center to the falls. A boardwalk climbing up the flume (open seasonally) offers a misty, personal look at the ledges, cliffs, and rushing water.

Hikes abound in the area. Some of the best are on the massive flanks and bare ridges of Mount Lafayette.

Lakes Region

Just to the south of the Kancamagus lies New Hampshire's Lakes Region, a lush green landscape bejeweled with nearly 300 lakes and ponds.

All of that water is dotted with numerous islands, bays, and coastal towns that range from mellow to manic. Whether you fancy a fishing trip, a loon-spotting canoe float, a scenic boat tour, or an afternoon of water-skiing, the lakes offer something for all tastes.

No matter your pleasure, there is one constant—a striking view of sparkling blue, with the shoulders of green mountains rising beyond.

Mountain weather is variable and can shift with each passing hour or change in elevation. Nonetheless, each New England season has its own distinctive charms, and the road is open year-round.

Summer temperatures average in the mid 60s F (about 18 degrees C) but often climb higher—inviting sunny, water-based activities in the rivers and swimming holes along the highway.

New England's flaming foliage is legendary, and there is no better place to take in the show than the White Mountains. Peak colors generally appear from the end of September through the second week of October.

Winter can be frigid in these parts but adds a whole new dimension to the alpine experience. Skiing, ice fishing, dogsledding, ice climbing, and other adventures mean that the cold doesn't keep anyone indoors. Of course, relaxing before a crackling fire has pleasures of its own.

In spring the area's animals break out of their winter doldrums. Among them, unfortunately, are the notorious black flies that hold sway in these woods for a few weeks each May. A sweeter proposition, maple-sugaring, occurs from roughly mid-March to mid-May.

Half a dozen drive-in campgrounds offer accommodation (some year-round) on a first-come, first-served basis along the Kanc. In keeping with the area's wilderness character, they don't offer electricity, water, or sewage hookups—just an overnight experience in the realm of tall trees and bright stars.

Hancock campground is toward the western end of the highway, about five miles (eight kilometers) from the Lincoln visitors center. It's situated on the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River, near Lincoln Woods. The site boasts a popular neighborhood swimming hole known as Upper Lady's Bath.

Towards the highway's eastern end, Covered Bridge Campground is only 6 miles (9.5 kilometers) from the attractions and facilities of Conway. It's one of the few campgrounds to offer reservations for selected sites (www.campsnh.com/coveredbridge.htm) and also features, as the name suggests, a beautiful covered bridge still in regular use.

Lincoln and Conway, at either end of the Kancamagus, offer lodging choices from resort hotels to quaint country inns. The eight alpine huts of the Appalachian Mountain Club (www.outdoors.org) provide cozy lodging for hikers and allow days of backcountry hiking encumbered by only a day pack.

Vehicles must display a White Mountain National Forest parking pass at all trailheads and picnic areas. They can be purchased at visitors centers (and select local businesses) at daily, weekly, or annual rates.

Travel above the tree line in the White Mountains is a serious endeavor no matter the season. Even in summer, summit temperatures on Mount Washington average about 52 degrees F (11 degrees C) and winds average 26 miles per hour (42 kilometers per hour).

Extremes can be much, much worse. Visibility can be stunning—or near zero.

The tundralike environs of these peaks and ridges are some of the most incredible areas in the White Mountains. But those venturing up high, especially on foot, should prepare accordingly.

-Brian Handwerk

Photograph by Mark Karass/Corbis