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Genghis Khan
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   In place of Buddhist lamaseries and temples, the Soviet masters raised blocky office buildings—even, here and there, a becolumned edifice reminiscent of St. Petersburg.

But beyond the capital spreads the steppe, the awesome, breathtaking steppe, still peopled by herders who dwell in round, felt tents called gers, and who depend upon horses for transport as well as for milk—much of it fermented into their beloved koumiss. Genghis would recognize all: herds, horses, gers, and the bitter koumiss taste.

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