February 24, 1998
Ten miles [16 kilometers] south of Cairo, in the shadow of the great pyramids of Giza, lies Abusir, the land of forgotten pyramids. Down we go . . . more than 80 feet [24 meters] under the shifting sands to a burial chamber protected by a cement structure. It’s dark, dusty, and crowded with Egyptian workers, the Czech archaeological team, and a Czech TV crew. Incense burns in the corner. A worker brings strong, heavily sugared tea.

February 25, 1998
A 50-ton limestone sarcophagus is in the middle of the chamber. Two teams of Egyptian workers use jacks and heavy wood blocks to slide the 22-ton limestone lid inch by inch. The foreman chants prayers as the workers winch the jacks. It’s a slow, patient process, every so often erupting with loud Arabic shouting and intense Czech discussion. Will there be a mummy inside?

February 26, 1998
The limestone sarcophagus lid is finally slid all the way and stabilized. Beneath it is another sarcophagus. Slowly, carefully, the workers pick away at the plaster and mud, revealing a beautifully carved basalt-stone lid depicting a face.

February 27, 1998
The tomb belongs to Iufaa, director of the palace, from 2,500 years ago. Probably Dynasty XXVI or XXVII. Journalists, ambassadors, and high-placed officials arrive at the site, eager to witness the revelation of a great treasure.

February 28, 1998
Our most extraordinary day yet. The basalt sarcophagus lid is pulled to the side, revealing a wooden sarcophagus. It is broken into many pieces with a few glints of blue in the cracks. A silence falls as the wood shards are carefully removed, and little by little an intricate beadwork begins to appear. Finally we can see the entire pattern of beadwork atop the mummy—completely intact! So rare! No one had ever before seen this decorative beadwork in its complete form. The blue beads form the background; other colors make up the patterns of gods and the inscription of Iufaa’s name. Tears came to my eyes. It was as if one could feel the spirit of this person, a high priest from 2,500 years ago.

Iufaa’s mummy is in bad shape. The decision is made to move it quickly to a research lab at Giza. Iufaa is carefully lifted out, bundled in a foam pad, and placed in a simple wooden coffin. Workers carry it back across the sands. The distant wailing of a village funeral wafts across the dunes. Later that day the coffin arrives at the lab, where it will be x-rayed.

March 1, 1998
A bead restorer arrives to remove the beads, which tragically have been jostled beyond recognition. Much animated discussion about what to do. Finally, Dr. Verner [head of the Czech archaeology team] gives the bead restorer a stack of brand new Tupperware containers to save the beads for later restoration.

March 2, 1998
The mummy has disintegrated badly—drying out and fungus spreading. Iufaa’s feet break off and are placed in the empty wooden coffin while the rest of his body is x-rayed. Dr. Strouhal [an expert in the study and preservation of mummies] wants to x-ray the head and body on its side. The head breaks off and is placed on foam in the hallway while the rest of the body is x-rayed. Hollow eyes, bared teeth, the face of Iufaa stares hollowly upward.

March 3, 1998
Mad dash around Giza with a pack of press, hungry after the latest pyramid news. Exhausted and elated, I’m ready to head home tomorrow . . . somehow I know I’ll return. Egypt has seeped into my blood like the slow flow of the Nile.

March 4, 1998
Thirty-six thousand feet [10,980 meters] in the air. The two moments that will always haunt my memory: The uncovering of Iufaa’s basalt sarcophagus, an idealized face ready to enter the glory of the afterworld. Then the Giza lab, Iufaa’s decaying face staring upward at the heavens. Is Zahi [Hawass, Director of Pyramids] right in believing that Iufaa’s spirit is well in the afterworld? Or have we forever destroyed that mysterious connection between body and soul? A crash course in ancient Egypt has challenged my status quo thinking once again. How incredibly fortunate I’ve been to make this journey.