Navigation Mexico Journeys Chiapas Mountains
Mist rises from the rain forest near the Guatemalan border.
Photograph by Tomasz Tomaszewski
Chiapas Map
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RealAudio Hear author Michael Parfit.
 

WE FLY INTO CHIAPAS, where a band of Maya Indian farmers, the Zapatistas, led an uprising against the Mexican government in 1994. It’s a journey of six hours from Mexico City in the small Cessna.
      “One of the things about flying over rain forests is the feeling of mystery,” Parfit said. “These mountains are so different from the bare mountains of the north. You don’t see what’s going on on the ground. You don’t see human impact. And knowing that there are rebels in these hills makes it all the more mysterious. Here you have Indians who reflect the nation’s romantic past, hiding out in this exotic landscape—among the jaguars and the pythons and the tall trees in the mists of the south—and they are speaking for all of Mexico.
      “The Zapatistas want better education, they want better health care, things that strike a chord with the majority of Mexicans, who are also poor. These young soldiers with rifles that they’ve carved out of pieces of wood—they reflect the desire for more freedom, for more democracy, for a stronger sense of being Mexican, which many Mexicans feel that the North American Free Trade Agreement has deprived them of.
      “I came down out of this quite violent weather—tossed all over the place—and I had to land at the military base. There were machine guns all around the runway; it felt like I had reached a war zone.”

CLICK BELOW to follow the drama of Maya Indians and the land reforms they have demanded, with these photo stories:



Chiapas Up Close
Masked Rebel The Zapatistas wear ski masks to hide their identity, for they are still in conflict with the federal government. Peace negotiations could drag on for years. Carrying the Calf Since the rebellion in 1994, landless Indians in Chiapas have invaded and occupied more than 1,500 privately owned ranches. Most vow to remain.

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