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Curious George’s Gorgeous Gorge

September 4-7, 2000

Isopod and Crab

Photograph by Gale Mead

Our other primary target area is a deeper site along a parallel contour south of Miller’s Mountain. Being responsible for discovery of this feature as well, Mark Miller has the privilege of naming it. This wall, ranging in depth from 1,200 feet [366 meters] at the top to over 1,600 feet [488 meters] at its base, thus becomes known as Curious George’s Gorgeous Gorge, or George’s Gorge for short.

The morning of September 5, an attempt is made to put Sylvia on bottom at the edge of the dropoff. Problems with tracking and communications force us to abort the dive just moments after she touches bottom at 1,250 feet [381 meters]. The rest of the day we are forced to stand down and regroup in preparation for another try the following day.

We are up before sunrise again the next day to prepare DeepWorker 6 for this dive. We’ve decided to try to put her on bottom at the base of the dropoff rather than the top, allowing her to work her way upslope from there. Touching down at 1,650 feet [503 meters], Sylvia reports she is surrounded by squid and myctophids, tiny, silvery deepwater fish. Waiting and listening topside, I breathe a sigh of relief that we have good comms and tracking. Sylvia has wanted very badly to explore this site and I was more than a little afraid we’d have to again abort the dive.

Cute Crab

Photograph by Gale Mead

A she traverses the sandy bottom, she reports seeing numerous large shrimp, as well as golden crabs, a species increasingly suffering from overexploitation in these waters. The presence of both in this place helps explain the many trawler tracks she reports along the sandy sea floor.

Even deep waters such as this are targeted by shrimpers and other fishermen. Humans are taking and destroying in many places we know nothing about, and the risk worldwide is that treasures will be innretrievably damaged before we even know they’re there. The importance of this mission, to see and document the life that exists here, is not lost on any of us. It will be very interesting to revisit this site after several years as a no-take zone. The biological richness and diversity of this special place should be much higher if the area is left untouched for a few years.

Lobster

Photograph by Gale Mead

This is my first really deep dive, but the charge I feel is not fear but excitement. I know what the DeepWorker is capable of, I know what to do when things go wrong, and I am confident that even if problems do develop, I will be able to return myself to the surface in one piece. Throughout the afternoon, we wait out the heat of the day and prepare the sub for its twilight launch. My biggest fear is that the weather, which has been borderline all day, will take a turn for the worse and force us to scrub the launch. Those fears prove unfounded, and I splash just after dinnertime.

Descending directly to 1,650 feet [503 meters] takes almost 20 minutes, and I watch above me as the water transitions from bright blue to darker and darker shades until I am in complete darkness. Continuing down through the inky black, now at 1,200 feet [366 meters], I disable all of the sub’s lights to see whether any glow-in-the-dark critters are moving nearby. Engaging downward thrusters, I am rewarded by the twinkling of countless points of green-blue fire, bioluminsecent dinoflaggelates ignited by the rush of water through the thrusters’ blades.

I touch down on a sandy plain punctuated by anthill-like mounds and great straight trawl tracks. I fly the sub carefully over the sea floor searching for the small life forms that dot the landscape: shrimp; tiny iridescent fish; squid who squirt gouts of ink in startlement at the sub’s approach. A crab I am trying to film scuttles into a depression in the sand. As I maneuver to peer into the depression I see the cause of the dip in the sand: a giant isopod—a creature that resembles a massive pill bug—over two feet [61 centimeters] in length is digging a tunnel into the sand, and the crab appears almost to be standing sentry duty. Over the course of my four hour dive I see this a half-dozen times, crabs standing behind, or even on the backs of, these amazing armored diggers as they burrow their way into the sand. Is this a common symbiosis? What about the barnacles that seem so frequently to grow just on one species of crab here? Why that species and no other? Oh, the questions raised here, and this is only one small spot among millions of square miles of unexplored sea floor.

Crab Salute

Photograph by Gale Mead

I have just one moment of real fear during my dive, and it comes early on. Cruising along the sand plain below the slope, I see what looks like a further dropoff, but turns out to be a large pit, 50 feet [15 meters] wide and 20-30 feet [6-9 meters] deep. Down I go, over the edge, seeing what looks like a wire coral ahead of me. But as I approach, I can see more clearly, and what I thought was a wire coral proves instead to be a stout rope, floating up from a tangled mass of netting, rope, and plastic: a discarded trawling rig. Fluctuations in oxygen percentage, lost communications, even total loss of power I am prepared to deal with. But nothing is as big a threat to returning safely from the depths as entanglement in manmade hazards such as this one. As much as I would like to shoot good video to document the mess, I hit my vertical thrusters hard and swoop up out of the pit and onto safer ground.

Sylvia and I both do our best to document the species we encounter here: whimsical goosefish, red long nosed sea robins, tilefish, anemones, burrowing pink eels, isopods, crabs with red eyes and red toes, red and pink lobsters with fuzzy claws, scorpionfish, and oh so many others. I can only hope we have further opportunities in the future to revisit this fascinating place.

—Gale Mead
Sustainable Seas Expeditions

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