In The Print Edition
FEATURES
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50
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Showcase of the Shoguns
Set amid ancient mountain temples in Nikko National Park, a pageant honors a mighty Japanese shogun. By Jared Lubarsky. Photographs by Michael Yamashita
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62
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Très Cheap, So Chic
special section: Staying in Paris doesn’t have to be outrageously expensive. Traveler scours the city to find 22 great hotels for $100 or less a night—and we identify the best rooms in each. By Taras Grescoe. Photographs by Macduff Everton
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76
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River Rafting at Ground Zero
Rafting British Columbia’s Taku River teaches lessons in wilderness ways and conservation pain. By Mel White. Photographs by Raymond Gehman
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92
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Italian Pleasures
Choose a villa vacation and live like the locals—as one American couple did in the Umbrian countryside. Plus: What you should know about finding the ideal
villa rental. By James Morgan. Photographs by Tino Soriano
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108
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Essential Grand Canyon
Second in a series of National Park guides, with expert suggestions for the Grand Canyon’s best activities and sites, and customized maps to get you there. Compiled by Nathan Harris. Introduction by Stephen J. Pyne
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118
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Beyond Little Italy
New ethnic neighborhoods are thriving in North America, giving travelers a delicious taste of the exotic close to home. By Gary Krist. Photographs by Ken Kochey.
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DEPARTMENTS
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TravelWise
Trip-planning tips follow feature articles on pages 84 and 104. For Nikko’s most indulging tatami suites, complete with outdoor hot-spring spas, see page 58.
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8
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Editor’s Note
The inside story.
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10
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Field Notes
Our contributors up close.
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12
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The Society Page
The latest news from the National Geographic Society.
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14
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Travel Talk
What our readers are saying.
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17
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Smart Traveler
The best of Belfast. Vegas for less. What’s new with spas. Convenient off-airport parking. Hidden cameras in your hotel room. Easy online cruise booking.
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28
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Travelwatch
The future of your travel experience: Marathon, Greece, and St. Croix.
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32
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Healthy Traveler
Remedies for the road.
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34
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Places of a Lifetime
Houston—a showdown of big-Texas brawn and nouveau flair.By Greg Curtis
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37
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Roomcheck
Utah’s newest ranch resort delivers a taste of the Old West.
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40
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48 Hours
Soak up the sun and the celebrity lifestyle of Santa Barbara. By Christopher Hall
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46
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Dispatches
Eyes and ears of the busy traveler.
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130
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Trips
Climbing Mont Blanc. Santa Fe’s Ten Thousand Waves spa. Bologna. British Columbia by ferry. On the Danube’s Delta...and more.
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152
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Calendar
Top events from around the globe.
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154
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Worldwise
Test your geography.
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