“Berlin is a city that shows how fast things can change and nowhere is this more noticeable than in the city’s cuisine,” says David Lansing, writer of TRAVELER’s April cover story on Berlin. “You can still find a few old-fashioned restaurants serving heavy meat dishes with thick sauces and potatoes prepared a thousand ways, but the best restaurants take local culinary dishes and give them an ethnic spin—Thai, Italian, Turkish—for a unique dining experience.” Here we offer Lansing’s pick of must-visit restaurants in Berlin.

VAU, Jägerstrasse, 54-55, +49 30 202 9730.
It’s pricey, but well worth the cost. Up-and-coming chef, Kolja Kleeberg, combines German classicism with French elegance in a minimalist setting. Whet your appetite with a salad of marinated red mullet, mint, and almonds, and for your meal, choose between the terrine of salmon and morels with rocket salad or smoked sturgeon with white beans and caviar. For a bit of sweet accompanied by a cup of strong German coffee, try the champagne-flavored ice cream.

KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, +49 30 2121 0 from the U.S., www.kadewe.com.
This shopping extravaganza—about 60,000 square meters devoted to retail space—houses a food hall that offers exceptional, diverse cuisine, well worth a stop even if you’re not going to shop. 33 stands serve everything from North Sea shrimp sandwiches to bouillabaisse soup. Some 1,200 varieties of sausage and cold cuts are offered up as well, which can be washed down with one of 2,400 different types of international wine.

Café Orange, Oranienburger Strasse 32, +49 30 2832440.
Smart, chic clientele visit for the affordable pasta and fish dishes as well as for the people watching in an arty, orange-walled setting. Fresh, vegetable-filled salads, such as the mozzarella salad, are tasty, but may leave you craving chips and the signature sausage. Try Café Orange for breakfast, for a salmon breakfast and any one of the five flavored, gigantic-sized German coffees sure to wash away morning tiredness or wipe out an afternoon slump.

Am Wasserturm, Knaackstrasse 22, +49 30 442 88 07.
Extensive Jewish menu with a wonderful outdoor terrace; perfect for a sunny day. Watch as tourists mix with local students, as you nibble on a filled carp for your appetizer. For a vegetarian meal, try the green pasta with vegetables marinated in honey.

Paris Bar, Kantstrasse 152, +49 30 313 80 52.
Snobby waiters and mediocre food are hallmarks of this restaurant, but most everyone in Berlin ends up here sooner or later—it’s the place to see and be seen. You’ll sit elbow-to-elbow with stylishly clad 20- and 30-somethings, born long after the post war years, when this restaurant became a symbol of good cheer. Don’t miss the fresh oysters, flown in daily.

Ku’damm 195, Kurfürstendamm 195, +49 30 881 8942.
Order a glass of chilled champagne to accompany your currywurst (spicy sausage curried in tomato sauce) at one of the best stand-up snack bars in Berlin. You’ll meet a mix of colorful locals, who will tell lore of local culture, and other adventuresome spirits exploring just like you are. The stand, open nearly around the clock, is not only economical it’s also convenient for snack cravings, whenever they may hit.

XII Apostel, Georgenstrasse 2, +49 30 201 02 22.
Jazz tunes, such as Dave Brubeck’s “Take Five”, float through the air as you enter into this bustling converted arcade situated next to an S-Bahn rail stop. Government types mix with local students. The Italian food is inexpensive, and though the service ranges from rushed to rude, the pizzas can’t be beat.

Aschinger, Kurfürstendamm 26, +49 30 882 55 58.
Indulge in one of Aschinger’s hearty German specialties or choose lighter fare at the bountiful salad bar. Dark beer, brewed on the premise of the cozy cellar, flows freely from the taps at a near-constant pace. Cover the top of your glass if you’re not ready for another house brew: you’re server will supply refills until you tell him/her to stop.

Sticks, Knesebeckstrasse 15, +49 30 312 90 42.
When you’ve had enough schnitzel, head to Sticks, a Thai restaurant, that serves up plenty of vegetarian dishes in spicy sauces and flavorful glazes. Try the tofu in green curry sauce with Thai vegetables for your meal, and for an appetizer sample the coconut milk soup with lemon grass and vegetables.

First Floor, Budapester Strasse 42, +49 30 25 02 10 20.
Master chef Mathias Buchholz serves up top of the line German cuisine in an elegant setting. Wine stewards encircle the candle lit dining room poised to pour one of 600 different vintages. Sip on the signature house red, while deciding between the terrine of veal with arugula-flavored butter or guinea fowl stuffed with foie gras and drizzled with a truffle vinaigrette. Save room for desserts, such as the mascarpone mousse with lavender-scented honey.

—Heather Morgan

Heather Morgan is a TRAVELER associate researcher and online editor