In Kerala, elaborate festivals give life to fables and often commemorate religious figures or events. Several cultural festivals are staged in the tourist season, December to February, enabling travelers to experience a wide range of Kerala’s performing arts. Invariably these festivals involve vibrant music and dance. It’s often the rhythms and sounds—elaborate elephant processions and booming fireworks—that lead you to the celebrations. Since dates are mostly determined by planetary positions, it’s best to contact a tourist office before heading to a festival site (+1 212 586 4901, www.tourindia.com). Most festivals are free.

Each year from January 27 to February 3 descendants of former rulers of southern Kerala continue royal tradition and stage a Musical Festival. Amongst the ambience of oil lamps, every evening at the Thiruvananthapuram Palace in the south of Kerala, there are performances by some of Kerala’s finest musicians, who play works from popular dramas such as Kathakali and Kootiattam.

Just north of the palace there’s the Nishagandhi Dance Festival, where from February 21-27 each year, there are free performances of Indian classical dance.

Further north, in central Kerala, the Kochi Carnival,from December 25-31, offers a kaleidoscope of performing arts, including Kathakali, classical dance, martial arts, and boat races.

The Harvest Festival of Onam commemorates a mythical time of social harmony, peace, and equilibrium. In the first month of the Kerala year, Chingam, (August-September) floral carpets, made by women, grace the towns throughout the state; adorned elephants parade in Thrissur; and long decorative boats race the backwaters of Alappuzha.

The ten-day Saraswati festival, also known as Dussehra or Navaratri, is held September-October. It’s celebrated throughout India but takes on special significance in Kerala. Young children are taken to the temples and, before an image of a goddess—celebrated in Kerala as Saraswati, the goddess of wisdom and learning—they are introduced to the letters of the alphabet.

The full moon in February-March marks Shivaratri, the festival of Shiva. All night people chant and pray in honor of the deity. In Aluva (Alwaye), just north of Kochi and Kovalam, rituals are held throughout the state and followed by a month-long celebration with bazaars and displays.

Krishna is an important deity throughout India and his festival at the famed Krishna temple in Guruvayoor, Kerala is celebrated February-March. Every day for ten days, decorated elephants parade near the temple. The festival culminates with a ceremonial bathing of the image of Krishna. Thousands of devotees join in the bath waters in anticipation of the deity’s blessings. The traditional dance, Krishnanattam, depicting the life of Krishna in song, dance and drama, is performed.

Thrissur Poorum, north of Kochi, held April-May, displays more elephants, color, and fireworks than any other festival. Lavish celebrations involve processions of decorated elephants, musicians, and dancers, all illuminated by a backdrop of fireworks.

The annual Snake Boat Races are a celebration of Kerala’s seafaring traditions. They take place on the second Saturday in August at Alappuzha. Long, low boats with elaborate sterns are rowed by up to 100 oarsmen, shaded by vibrant silk umbrellas. Tickets cost from just a few cents to $6 U.S.

Sabrimala, in Kerala’s south, welcomes thousands of pilgrims December-January, who come to honor their deity, Ayappan, esteemed for his power to conquer evil. People of all faiths are welcome at the temple except women of menstruating age. If you miss the temple, just follow the black robed pilgrims meandering along the roads leading to it.

Ramadan, known locally as Cheria Perunnal, marks the end of the Muslim month of fasting. It’s a happy time, with many local festivals involving family reunions and picnics. It’s a great time to sample a biryani—fragrant rice with meat or vegetables. This year Ramadan will be held December 15, 2001.

—Teresa Cannon

Teresa Cannon, author of the Lonely Planet Guide to Kerala, wrote the Kerala TravelWise for TRAVELER’s May/June issue.