In The Print Edition
FEATURES
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52
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The Beat of Berlin
From its annual anything-goes Love Parade to its spate of new buildings, Germany’s capital city pulses with creative energy, a beat laid down by its artists, musicians, designers—and just plain folks out to have fun. By David Lansing. Photographs by Brooks Walker
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70
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New York Explorers Club
The New York Explorers Club is one of the last redoubts of old-fashioned exploration and a bastion for adventuresome spirits. By Patrick Kelly. Illustrations by Michael Witte
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76
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State of Enlightenment
A jaded voyager discovers in Kerala, southern India, the joy of traveling the state’s romantic backwaters, enjoying its rich offerings of music and theater, and meeting its literate, cosmopolitan people. By Anthony Weller. Photographs by Macduff Everton
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88
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Faces of New England
special section: The patriarch of American regions is embellished with colorful landscapes, historical places, great restaurants, and much more. Let Traveler help plan your next getaway to this most accessible corner of the nation.
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106
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The Glory of Nothing
No highways, no crowds, no shops, no hotels—not even campgrounds. Load up your llama and hike the wild desert in one of America’s newest and rawest national monuments: Grand Canyon–Parashant, Arizona. By Ken Haedrich. Photographs by Tom Bean
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DEPARTMENTS
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TravelWise
Trip-planning tips follow feature articles on pages 86, 99, 103, and 112. Want to know more about Checkpoint Charlie’s most innovative escapees, and a Berlin bridge that is famous for spy swapping? Check out page 64.
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10
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Editor's Note
The inside story.
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12
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Field Notes
Our contributors up close.
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14
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The Society Page
The latest news from the National Geographic Society.
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16
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Travel Talk
What our readers are saying.
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19
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Smart Traveler
A bug forecast for today’s travelers. Tourism returns to Dubrovnik, Croatia’s capital.Ideal wheels for your next road trip.Can charter flights save you money? Updates on last year’s wildfire damage.
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34
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Travelwatch
The future of your travel experience: Maui, Amtrak’s Acela, and Port Townsend, WA.
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38
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Healthy Traveler
Remedies for the road.
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34
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Places of a Lifetime
Houston—a showdown of big-Texas brawn and nouveau flair. By Greg Curtis
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37
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Roomcheck
Utah’s newest ranch resort delivers a taste of the Old West.
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40
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48 Hours
Soak up the sun and the celebrity lifestyle of Santa Barbara. By Christopher Hall
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46
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Dispatches
Eyes and ears of the busy traveler.
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130
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Trips
Climbing Mont Blanc. Santa Fe’s Ten Thousand Waves Spa. Bologna. British Columbia by ferry. On the Danube’s Delta...and more.
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152
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Calendar
Top events from around the globe.
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154
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Worldwise
Test your geography.
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