In the Print Edition
FEATURES
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34
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Into Africa
On six different journeys discover some of this vast continent’s varied secrets: churches carved out of rock; ultimate luxury on an Indian Ocean islet; a bungee-jumping, white-water adventure and more.
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52
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Essential Yellowstone
Traveler’s national park series continues with
Yellowstone, the world’s first national park and one of the most popular vacation destinations in the U.S. Our experts recommend sites and activities for the best park experience. Compiled by Nathan Harris.
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64
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French Twist
Midsized Montreal on the Saint Lawrence River is part English, part French, part Old World, part New, both pious and irreverent, modern and historic, but above all, a city that loves to have fun. By Taras Grescoe. Photographs by Catherine Karnow.
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78
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Portraits of America Photo Essay:
For 37 years, this National Geographic photographer has explored the back roads of America, looking for the faces and places that make this country unique. Here, taken from his new book, are some of
his best images. By William Albert Allard.
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88
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An Adriatic Cote d’Azur
Once a fashionable Viennese resort destination, the peninsula of Istria has survived a turbulent history. Today, this little-known strip of coastal Croatia awaits rediscovery and reemergence as a gem of the northern Adriatic. By Jan Morris. Photographs by Vincent J. Musi.
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DEPARTMENTS
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6
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Editor’s Note
The inside story.
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7
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Field Notes
Our contributors up close.
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8
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Travel Talk
What our readers are saying.
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11
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Smart Traveler
Check in to a designer motor lodge. New cell-phone tour guides are not all they’re dialed up to be. Hotel bedside control panels bring comfort to your fingertips. Oil-drilling proposal for Arctic National Wildlife Refuge fuels tourism increase. Flat Stanley doll teaches geography to kids around the globe.
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13
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Healthy Traveler
Remedies for the road.
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14
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TravelWatch
Canada’s rare spirit bears now have protection, but watch them with respect. In places like the Galápagos, Lindblad Expeditions does more than just tour.
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18
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48 Hours
Often overshadowed by Sydney’s popularity, sister city Melbourne may be one of Australia’s best-kept secrets. By Luba Vangelova.
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96
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Trips
Shutterbugs hone their photo skills at a Spirit of People workshop led by veteran travel photographer Bob Sacha on the exclusive Italian island of Pantelleria. Superb trout fishing is only one good reason to visit the Beaverkill Valley Inn, in New York’s Catskills. For sheer comfort it’s hard to beat the Great South Pacific Express as a way to tour Australia’s scenic east coast.
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108
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Calendar
Top events from around the globe.
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110
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WorldWise
Test your geography IQ.
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