In the November/December Print Edition

FEATURES

38

The Real Italy
Italy’s beloved classics—Rome, Venice, Florence—get more attention. But it is Naples, a storehouse of artistic and archaeological treasures, where the author believes you’ll find the authentic Italian city experience. By Lorenzo Carcaterra. Photographs by David Alan Harvey

56

In Search of the Perfect Soak
Hot springs, whether man-made, all natural, or something in between, can be a combination of alpine and water fantasies. Our intrepid pilgrim undertakes a 3,000-mile quest across Idaho to find out which kind is best. By P. F. Kluge. Photographs by John Kernick

69

The Coliseum Bar
Scenes from the road: The ragtag products of a vanished empire hang out, and hang on, in this Kuala Lumpur watering hole, a bedraggled bit of Malaysian lore. By Anthony Weller. Illustrations by Lynn Pauley

72

Yosemite
Traveler’s Essential Park Series continues with the nation’s third national park, and one of its most magnificent. Experts recommend essential activities and sites for the most complete park experience. Compiled by Nathan Harris

84

A Hans Brinker Christmas
Return to Amsterdam with the writer and delight in this freedom-loving Dutch city’s holiday cheer. Then explore its eclectic side with shopping tips on where to buy everything from Delftware to miniature ships. By Raphael Kadushin. Photographs by Inge Yspeert

TRAVELWISE

Trip-planning tips follow feature articles on pages 66 and 94. See page 50 for tips on visiting Mount Vesuvius and the ruins of Pompeii, and for a sidebar on the history of pizza and where to find the best pizzerias in Naples.

6

Editor’s Note
Travel under siege.

8

Field Notes
Our contributors up close.

10

Travel Talk
What our readers are saying.

13

Smart Traveler
All you need to know about the new euro • Media hype feeds an increase in shark tours • Avoid overseas shopping mistakes • Cruise ships criticized for flying Liberia’s flag • Comparing two top ski trips • The boom in retro travel trends.

22

TravelWatch
Traveler reflects on the recent terrorist attacks on the World Trade Center and the Pentagon, and their effects on the future of travel. Plus: Six Jamaican hotels go green.

26

Healthy Traveler
Remedies for the road.

28

Place of a Lifetime
A renowned theater director reflects on his rural childhood home—Eggardon Hill, in the South of England. By Sir Richard Eyre

32

48 Hours
With a major new art museum and a grand public library, chic bars and posh shops, Nashville is singing a new tune. By Kara Carden

100

Trips
Enjoy the rigors—and good humor—of Cree culture on an Ontario ski expedition • A tour of New Mexico wineries reveals a surprising heritage • Virginia’s Keswick Hall beams guests back to an affluent 19th-century America.

108

Calendar
Top events from around the globe.

110

WorldWise
Test your geography IQ.