In the January/February 2002 Print Edition

FEATURES

24

The Soul of Lisbon
Bittersweet echoes of the Age of Discovery permeate Portugal’s coastal capital, built by seafarers and still awash in charm. By Jason Wilson

36

California Dreamin’
Get ready to really experience the Golden State: Hike ancient forests, discover a little-known national park, tube a lazy river, drive America’s archetypal road—and more.

52

Place of a Lifetime
A Pulitzer Prize-winning writer returns to Saigon and reaffirms his passion for this energetic Vietnamese city. By Robert Olen Butler

56

Wanderlust
Where to go to cuddle: 13 sublime getaways that demonstrate travel and romance form a fine pair.

DEPARTMENTS

6

Editor’s Note

8

Field Notes

11

Travel Talk

13

Smart Traveler
Museums tell slavery’s harsh tale with unvarnished reenactments • Four must-have gadgets to ease travel angst • Airline amenity kits with attitude • How to adopt a homeless pet abroad • For sale: Travel agent credentials.

20

48 Hours
“New West” style inspires Salt Lake City. By Kurt Repanshek

75

Annual Articles Index
A guide to past Traveler destinations.

80

Trips
Discover beach-happy Yucatán’s other waterworld of shimmering limestone cenotes • California’s Double Eagle Lodge & Spa offers pampering amid maximum mountain scenery • Pennsylvania’s Amish-flavored “mud sales” • Making old-time maple syrup in wee Funks Grove, Illinois.

92

Calendar

94

WorldWise