In the April 2002 Print Edition

FEATURES

42

Chillin’ on the Tatshenshini River
Nearly a decade after escaping developers’ clutches, the glacier-lined British Columbia waterway offers a thrilling raft ride through preserved wild vistas. By Jeff Rennicke. Photographs by David McLain.

52

Roma with a View
La dolce vita comes at a sweet price—under $135—at these 12 centrally located Rome hotels. By Taras Grescoe. Photographs by Brooks Walker.

62

Around the World in 80+ Books
Our authoritative list of must-read travel titles spans the globe via paper and ink. By George W. Stone.

70

Great Adirondack Camps
Rediscover rustic pleasures at five classic lodges in upstate New York. Photographs by John Kernick.

82

Insider’s Greek Isles
Locals give the lowdown on best beaches, restaurants, and rooms on six islands—from cruise-ship darling Santorini to off-the-tourist-track Chios. By Rachel Howard. Photographs by Tino Soriano.

TravelWise:
Trip-planning guides to the Tatshenshini River, pg. 50, and the Adirondacks, pg. 80.

DEPARTMENTS

13

Smart Traveler
Five trips you can take on your tax refund • What the fine print on your airline ticket really means • Best MP3 players for the road • Tips on hotel tipping • Bargain Buenos Aires

24

Healthy Traveler
Calorie-counting on the Continent, plus what to expect when flying with infants.

34

48 Hours
Gusts of art, blues, and Midwest soul fill a Windy City weekend. By Raphael Kadushin.

40

Place of a Lifetime
Santa Barbara’s recipe for happiness includes mountains, sea, and a sunny clime. By Julia Child.

101

Trips
Eco-friendly huts in Taos that don’t skimp on style • Southern France via horse-drawn caravan • Charlottesville’s contemporary allure • A taste of 18th-century farm life in the Outer Hebrides • Spotting exotic Thai wildlife at Khao Sok Park

COLUMNS

26

Local Color
Take to the wheel for a tour of São Paulo’s grand North Coast. By Matthew Shirts.

28

Real Travel
Acts of generosity turn out to be the greatest gift a traveler ever receives. By Daisann McLane.

30

TravelWatch
What happens when town and wild country clash at popular national parks like Banff and the Great Smokies? By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.