In the May/June 2002 Print Edition

FEATURES

36

Action New Zealand
Play nonstop for 12 days on the South Island: heli-hiking, jetboating, hard-core shopping, cave rafting, serious wine tasting, and more. By Carrie Miller. Photographs by David McLain.

56

Insider’s Washington, D.C.
Get the briefing on the best restaurants, neighborhoods, bars, and beds in the historic—and hip—nation’s capital. By George W. Stone. Photographs by Theo Westenberger.

70

On Foot through the Cévennes
A trek in wild, less-traveled south-central France retraces a famous journey by Treasure Island author Robert Louis Stevenson. By Steve Kemper. Photographs by Beth Wald.

78

Sequoia & Kings Canyon
Essential Park Series: From touring a marble cave to hiking among giant trees, experts pick nine things not to miss in these two California national parks. Compiled by Nathan Harris.

88

Escape Artists
Cast away to British Columbia’s serene Salt Spring Island, where the welcoming residents are as creative as they are laid-back. By Mark Miller. Photographs by Catherine Karnow.

TravelWise:
Trip-planning guides to South Island, New Zealand, pg. 50; Washington, D.C., pg. 68; the Cévennes, pg. 76; and Salt Spring Island, pg. 98.

DEPARTMENTS

13

Smart Traveler
How the newest museums get you to stay longer and spend more • Hotel concierge-floor perks • Five essential booking Web sites, plus five that need help • Hostels for grown-ups • Must-see animal migrations

32

48 Hours
The Maine attractions in Portland? Try a weekend of seafood, sophisticated arts, and some sweet bay views. By George W. Stone.

104

Trips
Camping goes classy in California • Stampede time turns Calgary into the Wild West • Detroit’s fun-loving Greektown • Much ado about mudwalking in Holland • A New Mexican Nature Conservancy B and B

COLUMNS

24

TravelWatch
A recent survey of how people travel reveals some surprising—and potentially powerful—attitudes about geotourism. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

26

Local Color
Vacation like the Finns do: Dive into soothing Nordic waters. By Pia Korpisaari.

30

Real Travel
The right cab driver can teach you that it’s not the destination that counts, but how you get there. By Daisann McLane.