In the July/August 2002 Print Edition

FEATURES

44

Yo-Yo Ma’s Japan
Place of a Lifetime: Imperial treasures, a big Buddha, and lingering reminders of the Silk Road create a sublime harmony in the ancient city of Nara. Photographs by Torin Boyd.

46

America’s Best Beaches
Special Report: “Dr. Beach” rates the top ten U.S. shores. Plus: His picks of the finest for beachcombing, surfing, and families. Reported by George W. Stone. Photographs by John Kernick.

58

Bohemian Rhapsody
In Krakow, a youthful exuberance—and a jazzy nightlife scene—newly animate the medieval streets of Poland’s resilient cultural capital. By Scott Wallace. Photographs by Les Stone.

70

Escape Routes
Drive, we said—and picked 12 great all-American road trips, one for each month of the year, ranging from a summer spin through the Northwest’s Columbia River Gorge to a winter tour in Vermont.

78

Room with a Skew
Journeys: After two years of roughing it throughout Asia, our adventurer faces his final challenge: a night at Bangkok’s luxe Oriental Hotel. By Rolf Potts. Illustrations by Vanessa Dell.

82

Britain Coast to Coast
Trek from the Irish Sea to the North Sea on one of England’s most magnificent walking trails. Plus: A map of Britain’s other great rambles. By David Yeadon. Photographs by Barry Lewis.

TravelWise: Trip-planning Guides
KRAKOW: Where to eat the best pierogi, bag a bargain on amber, and hear an open-air klezmer concert, plus a map of the city, pg. 67...and in CULTUREWISE, learn how to raise a toast in Polish, pg. 64. BRITAIN WALK: Best walking tour services, interesting stops, where to eat, and handy trail guidebooks, pg. 92

DEPARTMENTS

32

48 Hours
Manchester sloughs off its gritty industrial image for Brit-export bands, swanky shops, and edgy architecture. By Christina Ianzito.

13

Smart Traveler
How eye scans and other biometrics are changing travel security • Turning campus visits into the new family vacation • Putting out the welcome mat in Belgrade • Online gripe sites • Must-sees in Nova Scotia

COLUMNS

24

TravelWatch
Hydropower or national park? Iceland weighs aluminum profits against tourism dollars. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

26

Local Color
In a little-known corner of France, surfeur dudes and evergreens make for a refreshingly odd mix. By François Marot.

30

Real Travel
Ditch the guidebooks and follow your nose—and these tips—to the best spots to eat abroad. By Daisann McLane.