In the September Print Edition

FEATURES

40

Seville: Bite by Bite
Whether it's tiny clams or bellota ham, tapas means good times in this sensual city in southern Spain. Plus: National Geographic photographer David Alan Harvey shares the best of Spain's many festivals. By Jacqueline Friedrich. Photographs by Christopher Hirsheimer.

50

Insider's San Francisco
In-the-know locals divulge where they eat, sip, play, and shop in the City by the Bay. Plus: A handy map that locates favorite hotels, stores, and sights. By Andrew Nelson. Photographs by Catherine Karnow.

62

Sean Connery's Edinburgh
Place of a Lifetime: The Scottish film star never says never to his hometown, a revitalized city with an ancient castle and a new Parliament. Photographs by Jim Richardson.

66

Real Culture
From rebuilding a village in France to weaving textiles in Peru, these 24 experiences help get you off the tourist track and into authentic local life. By Carrie Miller. Photographs by Chris Rainier.

78

In the Heart of the New Berkshires
When a vanguard art museum opened in the old Massachusetts mill town of North Adams, chic bars, cafés, and stores soon followed in its stylish wake. By Catherine Dupree. Photographs by Ken Kochey.

TravelWise: Trip-planning Guides
Seville: Where to find fiery flamenco shows, bars, bullfights, hotel rooms, and contemporary art, plus a useful city map, pg. 48. San Francisco: How to get a ride on a streetcar or ferry, where to buy half-price theater tickets, and which city publications keep you up to date, pg. 94.

DEPARTMENTS

15

Smart Traveler
The truth behind those tempting freebie vacations • By-the-hour rental cars • Figuring out if you need travel insurance—and what kind • Where to stay in Stockholm • Useful pocket tools • A-List travel deals

36

48 Hours
In Fort Worth, rustle up both blue-chip art and cowboy cuisine. (Just don't mention that other Texas town.) By Suzy Banks.

84

Trips
Adults rule in Orlando, FL, where an artful and charming downtown offers grown-up pleasures • Sweet doings in Morelia, Mexico's "aristocrat of colonial cities" • Vanuatu's quirky South Pacific isle of Tanna

COLUMNS

28

TravelWatch
Beach towns need to go on an anti-sprawl diet. Case in point: the Outer Banks. • Best Practices: Fiji. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

30

Local Color
In the heart of the Mexican jungle lie enigmatic caves, waterfall-fed pools, exotic birds—and a surreal garden. By Luis Albores López.

32

Real Travel
For many travelers, a hotel is more than a room with a bed; it's a first friend in a foreign place. By Daisann McLane.