In the October Print Edition

FEATURES

40

Return to Paradise
Our writer goes back to Bali in hopes that it remains the spirit- and art-filled Eden of youthful memory. Plus: Tips on Indonesian customs and etiquette. By P.F. Kluge. Photographs by Justin Guariglia.

54

Quebec's Fjordland
On a river kayak trip through pristine Saguenay National Park, keep an eye out for majestic beluga and minke whales—but keep a respectful distance. Plus: Six more Canadian whale-watching spots. By Mel White. Photographs by Carl D. Walsh.

64

Insider's London
How right-now is the sizzling Brit capital? Just ask the locals. They pick their favorite restaurants, bars, shops, hotels, theaters, and markets. Plus: A handy street map that locates Tube stops and top attractions. By Roger Williams. Photographs by John Kernick.

78

Pure Country
Antidote to the high-society Hamptons, Long Island's North Fork peninsula holds out for simple pleasures: farm-fresh corn, open space, and good red wine. By William Least Heat-Moon. Photographs by Theo Westenberger.

86

Julia Alvarez's Dominican Republic
Place of a Lifetime: The best-selling novelist returns to her Caribbean homeland and finds herself growing roots not on its beaches but on its lush Alps. Photographs by Cameron Davidson.

TravelWise: Trip-planning Guides
Bali: Where to scuba dive, buy Indonesian textiles, and be pampered at a spa, pg. 50. Saguenay, Quebec: Best kayaking outfitters, what gear to bring, and how fit you need to be, pg. 62. London: When to go, how to get to and from the airports, and recommended guidebooks, pg. 100. North Fork, Long Island: Where to eat great ribs and taste local wines, and tips on top sights, pg. 84.

DEPARTMENTS

15

Smart Traveler
The truth behind those tempting freebie vacations • By-the-hour rental cars • Figuring out if you need travel insurance—and what kind • Where to stay in Stockholm • Useful pocket tools • A-List travel deals

88

Trips
A gem of a road trip takes in California's ultra-scenic Elk Coast • Cafés and clubs mix with history to jazz up a reborn Sofia, Bulgaria • A taste of the unvarnished West lingers on in Dubois, Wyoming • Just Back: Coastal Turkey

COLUMNS

32

TravelWatch
Why do Americans ignore the world's best-known preservation program? Best Practices: Chicago. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

36

Local Color
Beyond the pyramids, Cairo's delights include a medieval bazaar, buzzing cafés, and kebabs by the Nile. By Zahi Hawass.

38

Real Travel
Bumpy steerage-class ride or smooth first-class glide? This intrepid traveler likes her journeys both ways. By Daisann Mclane.