In the November/December Print Edition

FEATURES

79

Atom Egoyan's Armenia
Place of a Lifetime: The acclaimed Armenian-Canadian film director finds a mix of the artistic and the sacred in this little-known country's ancient monasteries and tranquil mountainscapes.

84

Insider's Hawaii
Aloha State locals reveal where to find the best beaches, taste Hawaiian food, and experience true island culture. Plus: A foldout islands map. By Andrew Nelson. Photographs by Brooks Walker.

104

Classic South America
With a sophisticated capital, historic ranches, and glittery beach resorts, small and accessible Uruguay offers the best of South America. By Simon Worrall. Photographs by David Alan Harvey.

116

A Dish Too Far
Our writer loosens his belt, picks up his fork, and bravely sets off on a power-eating jaunt to the gourmet meccas of Italy, Monaco, France, and Spain. By Rudy Maxa. Photographs by Theo Westenberger.

126

Four Seasons of Winter
Whatever your favorite time of year these 12 getaways take you there right now: whether you crave summer fun in the Caribbean, a taste of autumn, a dose of South Carolina springtime, or real winter. Photographs by Michael Melford.

TravelWise: Trip-planning Guides
Hawaii: Advice on when the islands are least touristy, how to get around, a list of visitors bureaus, plus other National Geographic resources, p. 185. Uruguay: What to see in gaucho country, where to buy native leather and wine and to eat authentic foods, plus a Montevideo map, p. 114 . . . and in CultureWise: Learn the best way to sip maté, p. 108.

DEPARTMENTS

14

Smart Traveler
Snow tubing, ice climbing, and other wintry sports for the nonskier • A hotel security checklist • Clueing in to "all-inclusive" • TriBeCa street map • New-look mountain lodges • Innkeeper Robert Redford • A-List travel deals

67

48 Hours
Denver may have flashy new sports and arts venues, but underneath still beats the rugged heart of a frontier town. By Stephen Beaumont.

136

Trips
With both brains and beauty, Bologna is also Italy's first name in gastronomy • Raptor-watching atop Hawk Mountain, PA • An adventure lodge in Chile's otherworldly Atacama Desert • Going Scandinavian on scenic Washington Island, WI • Just Back: Hampstead, London

COLUMNS

38

TravelWatch
Can the lush Caribbean isle of Dominica save itself? • Best Practices: Tamarack, West Virginia. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

40

Real Travel
A Hong Kong sojourn reveals the advantages of going abroad and then staying put. By Daisann Mclane.

42

Local Color
Built on three Atlantic islands, the Norwegian town of Kristiansund owes its warm character to cold fish. By Gunnar Falkum.