In the March 2003 Print Edition

56

Elegant Danger
Shark sightings, according to the author of Jaws, are just one of the underwater thrills in lightly touristed Rangiroa. Plus: Six more Polynesian dive resorts. By Peter Benchley. Photographs by David Doubilet.

70

Insider's Paris
Locals divulge favorite stores, strolls, bistros, and nightspots in the always beguiling City of Light. Plus: A foldout guide with maps to five classic, métro-accessible Paris neighborhoods. By Taras Grescoe. Photographs by John Kernick.

86

San Diego Times Three
A trio of buzzing districts—La Jolla, Hillcrest, downtown—reveal this southern California city's multicultural pleasures. By Andrew Nelson. Photographs by Michael Melford.

96

Far Edge of Ireland
Off-the-tourist-track County Mayo, on the western coast, is true Eire at its most wildly beautiful. Plus: Booking a getaway at a historic Irish home. By Mel White. Photographs by Chris Rainier.

106

Francine Prose's Sicily
Place of a Lifetime: The best-selling novelist learns to live on Sicilian time: when to shop, have gelati (always), and eat—finally—Sunday lunch.

TravelWise: Trip-Planning Guides
Rangiroa: How to get there, deals on rooms and airfare, and a Polynesian islands map, p. 68—and in CultureWise learn flower-wearing etiquette, p. 67. San Diego: Guidelines on visiting the zoo and how to do a day trip to Puerto Nuevo, Mexico, p. 94. County Mayo: Money-saving tips on flights and sights, and a Chieftain's top Irish music picks, p. 104.

DEPARTMENTS

12

Editor's Note
Details on current events, new features, and more.

13

Travel Talk
Letters from our readers.

16

Smart Traveler
What travel agents can do for you that online booking sites still can't • Getting the best exchange rate • The case of the missing Amex frequent-flier miles • New hotels, historic buildings • Hot and noteworthy in Oklahoma City • The dirt on walking shoes • A-List travel deals.

36

On the Road
Washington's Highway 101 offers a primer on Olympic Peninsula forests and lakes, mountains, and main streets. By Andrew Nelson.

42

Local Color
Melnik boasts the best of Bulgarian architecture and wine—as well as an unusual geologic setting. By Antoanetta Dimitrova.

46

Real Travel
Chance encounters in Bali and Thailand lead to that rare gift—a lasting friendship made on the road. By Daisann Mclane.

48

48 Hours
From stylish new hotels to inventive fusion cuisine, Miami keeps pulsing to a Hispano-Caribbean beat. By Natalia de Cuba Romero.

110

TravelWatch
Sun and sprawl in Florida • Panda problems • Snow-mobiling in Yellowstone • Best Practices: Aspen Skiing Company, Colorado. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

112

Trips
Hikers get the skinny on Utah's slot canyon, Buckskin Gulch • Offbeat skiing in Transylvania, Romania • War-history lessons in Bayeux, France.

124

WorldWise
Geographical trivia.