In the April 2003 Print Edition

FEATURES

46

Islands of the Fittest
How has tourism affected the evolutionary wonderland of the Galápagos? A Darwin descendant checks in with iguanas, boobies—and Lonesome George. By Matthew Chapman. Photographs by Mattias Klum.

58

Insider's Toronto
Locals reveal favorite beauty spots, chic shops, and globe-trotting restaurants in this surprising multicultural city. Plus: A foldout map and guide to an Ontario wine-country road trip. By Olivia Stren. Photographs by John Kernick.

74

Fun on the Rocks
Malta whips up a fizzy cocktail of history, warm golden stone, clear skies, and blue waters. By Sheila Feldman Buckmaster. Photographs by Michael Melford.

84

Classic Acadia National Park
At this accessible refuge on the coast of Maine, outdoor adventures—biking car-free roads, hiking, kayaking—are within easy reach of a good eatery. By Simon Worrall. Photographs by David Mclain.

TravelWise: Trip-Planning Guides
Galápagos: How to get there cheaper, picking the right tour company, photo tips from photographer Mattias Klum, and a map of the islands, p. 56. Malta: When to go, local culinary specialties, and the story behind the Maltese falcon, p. 83. . . and in CultureWise learn about festival traditions, p. 80.

DEPARTMENTS

12

Smart Traveler
Why soaring car-rental fees drive us crazy • Pre-trip briefings from professional intelligence agents • How to get a VAT refund • Eco-certified safari lodgings in Kenya • Marseille highlights • New South American hotels • Rating street maps • A-List travel deals.

30

On the Road
A drive through southeastern Arizona—a bastion of true Americana—rustles up cowboys and contrarians. By Andrew Nelson.

36

Real Travel
It may be Greek to you, but attempts at speaking the native language always pay back in goodwill. By Daisann Mclane.

38

TravelWatch
How Pro Loco associations help Italian villages stay true to themselves • Best Practices: Scandic hotels. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

40

48 Hours
Hanoi, Vietnam's capital city, fast-forwards into the 21st century without losing its own romantic mix of French colonial style and classic Asian charm. By Nelson Mui.

92

Trips
With a colonial center and a lively beach, Cartagena is an unexpected find—and a place apart—in Colombia • Biking Missouri's easygoing Katy Trail • A secluded spot (near busy Portofino, no less) in San Fruttuoso, Italy.