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In the July/August 2003 Print Edition

FEATURES

60

Insider's Newport
Gilded Age mansions may be the signature draw at Rhode Island's classic summer resort, but locals reveal other pleasures, from boats to beaches and B&Bs. By George W. Stone. Photographs by Bob Krist.

70

Deep Banff
Three off-the-beaten-track itineraries get to the true heart of Canada's popular national park. Plus: A foldout guide jam-packed with things to do and see in the majestic Canadian Rockies. By Tom Dunkel. Photographs by Chris Rainier.

85

Coolest City in the U.K.
Glasgow goes high-style with innovative design, eclectic boutiques—and unpretentious attitude. By Gary Krist.

 

TravelWise: Trip-Planning Guides
Banff: Recommended park lodges, wildlife to watch, and the Banff Film Festival on tour, p. 84. Glasgow: Hotel finds, Scottish cuisine, and celeb chef Gordon Ramsay's city picks, p. 94 . . . and in CultureWise learn the proper way to drink whisky, p. 89.

DEPARTMENTS

8

Editor's Note
Details on current events, new features, and more.

10

Travel Talk
Letters from our readers.

15

Smart Traveler: All-American Summer
A 13-page special: Big cities • Small towns • Presidential libraries • Orlando bonanza • National parks • Classic vacations revisited • Midwestern lodges • A-List travel deals • Bonus foldout guide: best U.S. beaches.

44

On the Road
Gospel and R&B provide the sound track for a soulful drive on the Blues Highway from Memphis to Vicksburg. By Andrew Nelson.

50

Real Travel
For a subway-riding New Yorker, getting behind the wheel of a rental car in a foreign place is an adventure in itself. By Daisann Mclane.

52

TravelWatch
Western wildfire debate heats up • Cruise ships alter course • Best Practices: Rocky Mountaineer Railtours. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

54

Local Color
In the Alentejo region of Portugal, state-run hotels in former castles and convents invite sweet dreams. By Sérgio Henriques Coimbra.

56

48 Hours
The newest stars in L.A.? Restored historic buildings, ethnic neighborhoods, and Frank Gehry's latest creation. By Amelia Saltsman.

98

Trips
Chilling with polar bears in Churchill, Manitoba • Hot springs and a down-home lodge in Jackson, MT • In Sicily, a festival you can't refuse • Just Back: Slovenia.

106

Parting Shot
This month's most memorable photo.



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