In the September 2003 Print Edition

FEATURES

68

Italy's Very Own Magic Kingdom
In the heart of Tuscany, Siena enchants with a colorful medieval core, fiercely proud residents, and a famously beautiful piazza. By Lorenzo Carcaterra. Photographs by William Albert Allard.

80

Classic Virgin Islands National Park
On blissful St. John, snorkel-hiking may be one of the best ways to sample this unspoiled Caribbean island's surf and turf. By Bob Morris. Photographs by Raul Touzon.

84

Insider's Seattle
Emerald City locals share their favorite eateries, brew-pubs, attractions, and, inevitably, coffeehouses. Plus: A foldout guide with 25 Seattle must-dos. By Andrew Nelson. Photographs by Catherine Karnow.

99

World Legacy Award Winners
Traveler and Conservation International give three organizations—in Africa, Italy, and Thailand—our first sustainable tourism awards.

TravelWise: Trip-Planning Guides
Siena: When to go, hotel finds, best local wines, and how to use the city’s high-tech guidebook, p. 78 . . . and in CultureWise learn when to order cappuccino and how to greet friends like a true Italian, p. 76. Seattle: The truth about rain in Seattle, taking ferries and trolleys, and a list of useful websites, p. 119.

DEPARTMENTS

6

Editor’s Note
Details on current events, new features, and more.

7

Travel Talk
Letters from our readers.

12

Smart Traveler
Athens: gearing up for the 2004 Olympics, plus tips for getting tickets • Who owns the Elgin Marbles? • B3: Philly’s next neighborhood • Booking last-minute trips • Renting villas in four popular destinations • The right camera film for you • A-List travel deals.

53

On the Road
Follow the Old Mission Trail from posh Santa Barbara to find easygoing wineries and Spanish colonial history. By Andrew Nelson.

58

Real Travel
Returning to a memorable place you've visited before? Get ready for a rush of bittersweet emotions. By Daisann Mclane.

60

48 Hours
There's nothing common about Boston's chic new hotels, trendy fusion restaurants, and early American icons. By Christina Ianzito.

105

Trips
European mini-states • Dispatch: Namibia • What’s new in Atlanta • Day trips from Las Vegas • Five fly-fishing lodges • Itinerary: Chicago • Petaluma’s antiques row • WorldWise quiz: bridges and tunnels.

120

Parting Shot
This month's most memorable photo.