In the March 2004 Issue

FEATURES

48

New Series: The Long Run, Part 1
The ultimate road trip—7,000 miles from Fairbanks to Miami—sets off down the Alaska Highway, with stops for dogsledding, hot springs, and wide-screen scenery. By Mel White.

60

Destination Scorecard: 115 Places Rated
From Norway's fjords to Phuket, Thailand, Traveler rates which of the world's most noted destinations remain great and which may be in trouble. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

68

Staying Real
James Traub and Traveler staffers reveal five family-run lodges committed to preserving an authentic sense of place, from a Japanese ryokan to an Idaho ranch. Photographs by David Mclain.

80

Insider's New Orleans
Crescent City locals share their favorite shops, music spots, watering holes, Mardi Gras outfitters, and more. Plus: A foldout guide to Big Easy restaurants. By Andrew Nelson. Photographs by Ken Kochey.

96

The Beat in Cuba
Natives sense change in the air, but in the meantime this West Indies island nation that time forgot charms with its infectious music and funky fleet of classic cars. By Jon Bowermaster. Photographs by Peter McBride.

TravelWise Trip-Planning Guides
The Long Run: Fairbanks facts, a list of helpful websites, and recommended sights, eateries, and lodgings along the Alaska Highway, p. 58. Cuba: How to get there, top attractions, and info on current U.S. policy on travel to the island, p. 108.

DEPARTMENTS

10

Editor's Note
Current events, new features, and more.

12

Travel Talk
Letters from our readers.

16

Smart Traveler
New baggage-limit rules • ChoHo: Charleston's next 'hood • How renting a car can wreck your credit rating • High-tech tools that make travel faster and safer • Good buys in Beijing • Key West inns • Endangered places • Best mileage credit cards • A-List travel deals.

34

Real Travel
Whether dancing in the streets or honoring ancestors, the best local festivals are the ones you chance upon. By Daisann McLane.

36

Local Color
Getting to the heart of Seoul's neighborhoods requires an eye for both Korean tradition and the newest trend. By Whanyung Kim.

38

48 Hours
No longer spring break central, Fort Lauderdale now hypes its cleaned-up beach and glossy main boulevard. By Stacy H. Small.

43

Place of a Lifetime: Broadway
A Tony Award-winning playwright gives his regards to the Great White Way's bright lights and big dreams. By David Henry Hwang.

112

Trips
Romantic getaways: Barbados, Paris, Sierra Nevada, Italy • What's new in Richmond • Dispatch: Indonesia • London day trips • Itinerary: Prague • Milwaukee's Old World street • WorldWise quiz • and more.

126

Parting Shot
This issue's most memorable photo.