In the May/June 2004 Issue

FEATURES

58

A Year of Islands
From the Azores to Zanzibar, from Raspberry Island to Heron Island, we choose the perfect pinup for each month of the calendar.

76

The Long Run
Part 3: In Big Sky country, the ultimate road tripper, en route from Fairbanks to Miami, hears tales of Lewis & Clark, Buffalo Bill, and the occasional celeb (Nicole!). By Mel White.

86

Found in Translation
A savvy Tokyo native helps unpeel the Japanese capital's offbeat and sometimes perplexing layers. By Keith Bellows. Photographs by Justin Guariglia.

99

Traditional Japan
Special foldout guide: 30 ways to experience classic Japan, from samurai to sumo wrestlers. By Karin Muller.

104

R&R on a Restless Shore
North Carolina's Outer Banks touts its sand dunes and water sports—and keeps a wary eye on beach erosion. Plus: A full-page map with top stops on the islands. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot. Photographs by Stephen Alvarez.

114

Norway Hut to Hut
Thousands of miles of scenic hiking paths link hundreds of rustic cabins, providing the best way to experience natural Norway. Photographs by Dan Westergren.

TravelWise Trip-Planning Guides
The Long Run: The top sites along the Montana-to-Wyoming route, and good books for background, p. 85. Tokyo: Where to stay, how to navigate around the city, and etiquette dos and don'ts, p. 96. Outer Banks: Local seafood, tips on renting a beach cottage, and hurricane safety, p. 112. Norway: The lowdown on the Norwegian mountain trails, when to go, and what to pack for hikes, p. 121.

DEPARTMENTS

6

Editor's Note
Current events, new features, and more.

8

Travel Talk
Letters from our readers.

13

Smart Traveler
Safe to go back?: Bali, Hong Kong, Turkey, Israel, Kenya • Split tickets • Ethnic-theme city tours • The eye-opening truth about hotel wake-up calls • Kansas City's next 'hood • Traveling green • High-comfort camping gear • Southeast-coast hotels • A-List travel deals.

36

Real Travel
Should you hire a local guide? The best ones may give you the inside story and get you out of tight spots. By Daisann Mclane.

40

48 Hours
New eateries and boutiques and an ever diverse student body bring fresh energy to timeless Oxford, England. By Raphael Kadushin.

47

Local Color
There's more to Granada, Spain, than just the exquisite Alhambra. Check out these two historic quarters. By Nadia Feddo.

52

Travel Watch
Get in tune with your destination by tapping into authentic music • Saving Key West's favorite mollusk. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

54

Place of a Lifetime: Sarajevo
A native returns to find restored buildings and hopeful locals in the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. By Aleksandar Hemon.

126

Trips
Vacationing near volcanoes is a booming trend. We look at four hot spots—in Costa Rica, Hawaii, New Zealand, and Sicily • And more.

128

Parting Shot
The issue's most memorable photo.