NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER: The World's Most Widely Read Travel Magazine
    Traveler Home
Subscribe Now! NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER
  Subscriber Services
    Customer Service


    Back Issues


    Frequently Asked Questions


    Subscription Renewals


    Slipcase Orders
  Advertise with Us
    Print Edition


    Online Edition
  About Us
    E-mail Us


    Writers Guidelines


    Photographers Guidelines


    Press Contact


    Mission Statement


    Masthead
  From Our Publications
    In the Current Issue


    In the Next Issue


    Free Travel Information


    Traveler Magazine Index


    NGS Publications Index


    Site Archive


In the July/August 2004 Issue


FEATURES

52

The Gift of Ghent
Warning: Chocolates, frites, good beer, and the natives’ irreverent wit may distract you from the classic attractions in Belgium’s little-known gem of a ville. By Taras Grescoe.

62

The Long Run
Part 4: The ultimate road tripper counts more pronghorn than people in prairie country and has a close encounter with Devils Tower in Wyoming. By Mel White.

76

Insider’s Sydney
Sydneysiders reveal favorite bars, beaches, hikes, shops, and restaurants in Oz’s must-see city. Plus: A foldout guide to the nearby Blue Mountains. By Luba Vangelova. Photographs by Catherine Karnow.

92

Lost in Cornwall
But found along winding Cornish lanes: soulful pubs, proud locals, and legends of King Arthur. Text and photographs by Jim Richardson.

 

TravelWise Trip-Planning Guides
Ghent: Tips on seeing the city’s architectural charms, where to stay, and biking outfitters, p. 60. The Long Run: Parks and monuments along the Wyoming-to-Nebraska route, plus books to read, p. 72. Cornwall: When to go, historic pubs, how to get around, and recommended lodging, p. 101.

DEPARTMENTS

8

Editor’s Note
Current events, new features, and more.

10

Travel Talk
Letters from our readers.

12

Smart Traveler
Ideas for enjoying the authentic American West, without the crowds • Warehouse club travel • Three California itineraries: walkable L.A., Santa Barbara’s wine country, Bay Area cheese trail • The revival of downtown Jersey City • A-List travel deals.

24

Real Travel
"Do you mind taking our photo?" The chance encounters and unexpected pleasures of shared camera-derie. By Daisann Mclane.

28

Local Color
It’s July in Chile, and the skiing is great. Not to mention the other charms in and near the cool capital, Santiago. By Jonathan Franklin.

39

Travel Watch
Maine’s coastal islands • Great Barrier Reef • Burma • Armenia • Best Practices: Off the Beaten Path. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

41

48 Hours
Eyes are on Athens, but the real hot spot is Thessaloniki, with a cosmopolitan vibe and Greece’s best cuisine. By Dimitra Kessenides.

48

Place of a Lifetime
Unspoiled beaches and friendly old towns vie for a visitor’s affection on Virginia’s tranquil Eastern Shore. By Ken McAlpine.

106

Trips
Cooking-school vacations: Provence, Thailand, Hudson Valley, Oaxaca, Greece • What’s new in St. Louis • DC’s go-to street for housewares • WorldWise quiz.

114

Parting Shot
The issue’s most memorable photo.



SUBSCRIBE NOW AND SAVE 62%. Get a Free Gift! CLICK HERE >>

The A List: Best travel deals. Delivered free to your in-box. Sign up now
  Web Exclusives
Sydney Photo Gallery
Destinations Scorecard:
Places Rated
Travel News
Traveler Magazine Articles
World Legacy Awards Winners
  Travel Planning
A-List: Best Travel Deals
Africa Travel Planner
Challenge on Denali
Romantic Places to Stay & Dine
TravelWise:
Plan and book your trip
  Community
Ask the Travel Doctor
Get Travel Advice
Tourism Forum
Message Boards
  Also on Nationalgeographic.com
Sustainable Tourism Center
Books, Maps, and More
Expert-Led Expeditions
MapMachine