In the July/August 2004 Issue |

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FEATURES
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52 |
The Gift of Ghent Warning: Chocolates, frites, good beer, and the natives’ irreverent wit may distract you from the classic attractions in Belgium’s little-known gem of a ville. By Taras Grescoe. |
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62 |
The Long Run
Part 4: The ultimate road tripper counts more pronghorn than people in prairie country and has a close encounter with Devils Tower in Wyoming. By Mel White. |
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76 |
Insider’s Sydney
Sydneysiders reveal favorite bars, beaches, hikes, shops, and restaurants in Oz’s must-see city. Plus: A foldout guide to the nearby Blue Mountains. By Luba Vangelova. Photographs by Catherine Karnow. |
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92 |
Lost in Cornwall
But found along winding Cornish lanes: soulful pubs, proud locals, and legends of King Arthur. Text and photographs by Jim Richardson. |
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TravelWise Trip-Planning Guides
Ghent: Tips on seeing the city’s architectural charms, where to stay, and biking outfitters, p. 60. The Long Run: Parks and monuments along the Wyoming-to-Nebraska route, plus books to read, p. 72. Cornwall: When to go, historic pubs, how to get around, and recommended lodging, p. 101. |
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DEPARTMENTS |
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8 |
Editor’s Note
Current events, new features, and more. |
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10 |
Travel Talk
Letters from our readers. |
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12 |
Smart Traveler
Ideas for enjoying the authentic American West, without the crowds • Warehouse club travel • Three California itineraries: walkable L.A., Santa Barbara’s wine country, Bay Area cheese trail • The revival of downtown Jersey City • A-List travel deals. |
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24 |
Real Travel
"Do you mind taking our photo?" The chance encounters and unexpected pleasures of shared camera-derie. By Daisann Mclane. |
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28 |
Local Color
It’s July in Chile, and the skiing is great. Not to mention the other charms in and near the cool capital, Santiago. By Jonathan Franklin. |
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39 |
Travel Watch
Maine’s coastal islands • Great Barrier Reef • Burma • Armenia • Best Practices: Off the Beaten Path. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot. |
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41 |
48 Hours
Eyes are on Athens, but the real hot spot is Thessaloniki, with a cosmopolitan vibe and Greece’s best cuisine. By Dimitra Kessenides. |
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48 |
Place of a Lifetime
Unspoiled beaches and friendly old towns vie for a visitor’s affection on Virginia’s tranquil Eastern Shore. By Ken McAlpine. |
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106 |
Trips
Cooking-school vacations: Provence, Thailand, Hudson Valley, Oaxaca, Greece • What’s new in St. Louis • DC’s go-to street for housewares • WorldWise quiz. |
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114 |
Parting Shot
The issue’s most memorable photo. |
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