In the March 2005 Issue

FEATURES

50

Chasing Matisse
In the south of France, an art lover tracks down the sun-dappled settings that inspired the bold paintings of Matisse and his contemporaries. By James Morgan. Photographs by Michael Melford.

62

Insider's Jamaica
Locals share 22 favorite island pleasures, from best restaurants to unexpected snorkeling spots. By Joe Yogerst. Photographs by Brian Doben.

73

The Traveler List: Secret Gardens
Special Foldout Guide: From bonsai in B.C. to ferns in Florida, here are 22 lesser-known green sanctuaries in the United States and Canada. By George W. Stone.

78

The Zen of Kyoto
A search for Japan's uniquely ethereal beauty leads to exquisite inns, gardens, and the hidden world of geisha. By Keith Bellows. Photographs by Justin Guariglia.

90

Think Small: 10 Great College Towns
Cool cafés, lively arts, and a youthful vibe make the grade in Berkeley, Ann Arbor, Hanover, and more. By George W. Stone. Photographs by Catherine Karnow.

TravelWise Trip-Planning Guides
Chasing Matisse • Where to view artwork and find local markets, plus museum discounts, p. 61. • Kyoto • How to meet a geisha, major Kyoto festivals, what to buy, and local foods, p. 88. • College towns top attractions in ten cities, p. 99.

DEPARTMENTS

8

Editor's Note
Current events, new features, and more.

10

Travel Talk
Letters from our readers.

21

Smart Traveler
Online travel communities • Fake-ticket scam • Timeshare resales • The streetcar's comeback • Pittsburgh's up-and-coming Lawrenceville neighborhood • Barefoot Caribbean getaways • Best buys in Bangkok.

28

Real Travel
In a new city, a visit to the local Laundromat can be just as memorable as your first glimpse of a tourist icon. By Daisann Mclane.

32

Local Color: Jordan
Not just a gateway to the ancient city of Petra, capital Amman boasts Roman ruins and a cosmopolitan outlook. By Dalia Fahmy.

33

Travel Watch
Edenic São Tomé and Príncipe gear up for tourists • Andorra update • Best Practices: Kimpton Hotels. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

35

48 Hours: Berlin
The reclaimed German capital keeps up its dizzying pace of change with new museums and whimsical boutiques. By Raphael Kadushin.

42

On the Road: Kentucky
Thoroughbred farms and the South's signature drink lure road trippers to Central Kentucky's Bourbon Trail. By Michael Ray Taylor.

48

Place of a Lifetime: Transylvania
A native son shares what makes Romania's rural heart truly myth-filled and magical. (Hint: It's not Dracula.) By Andrei Codrescu.

101

Trips
Spy cities: London, Budapest, Washington, DC • Calendar • WorldWise quiz • and more.

112

Parting Shot
The issue's most memorable photograph.