In the April 2005 Issue

FEATURES

66

Insider's Tuscany
Locals share 35 favorite things to do—from biking to wine-tasting—in Italy's classically scenic heart. By Tom Mueller. Photographs by John Kernick.

78

Last Wild Places
Nature dominates in New Mexico's Gila Wilderness and in this sampling of 15 other untamed American preserves in Alaska, Colorado, Hawaii, and more. By Jeff Rennicke.

89

The Traveler List: Summer Events
Special Foldout Guide: Twenty top U.S. happenings, from the return of Jaws to a Lincoln museum opening. By Molly C. Feltner.

94

Serenade in Budapest
The revitalized Hungarian capital pulses with new cafés, restaurants, shops, and hotels, but still waltzes to a romantic Old World tune. By Amy Alipio. Photographs by Catherine Karnow.

106

Thieves Among Us
Special Report: Frequently downplayed, petty crimes against travelers remain a persistent problem. Here's what you need to know to protect yourself. By Margaret Loftus.

114

Blues Traveler
A Manhattanite journeys south to Appalachia and finds bluegrass, moonshine, and her country roots. Plus: Pull-out Geotourism MapGuide to Appalachia. By Barbara Lazear Ascher. Photographs by Stephen Alvarez.

TravelWise Trip-Planning Guides
Budapest: Where to stay, deals on antiques, plus a Hungarian menu decoder, p. 105. Appalachia: Heritage sites and bluegrass music, p. 120.

DEPARTMENTS

10

Editor's Note
Current events, new features, and more.

12

Travel Talk
Letters from our readers.

16

Smart Traveler
Global warming's impact on tourism • Baltimore's up-and-coming Hampden neighborhood • The fine print on best-rate guarantees • Cell-phone options abroad • Four comeback destinations • Nicaragua: the new Costa Rica? • Affordable London lodgings • A-List deals.

32

Real Travel
Weathering a Tokyo typhoon, a veteran globetrotter finds the silver lining in unexpected travel glitches. By Daisann Mclane.

36

Travel Watch
When ecotours go bad • Italy's Orange Flag program • Best Practices: Stone Barns Center in New York. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

45

Local Color: Argentina
A two-hour flight north from Buenos Aires, Salta shines as a colonial gem and favorite Argentine getaway. By Michael Luongo.

48

48 Hours: Washington, DC
Beltway insiders reveal the nonpartisan charms of the nation's capital, from tranquil gardens to chic boutiques. By George W. Stone.

56

National Park Essentials: Arches
A photo safari to Arches National Park in Utah finds a bonanza of over 2,200 potential stone subjects. By Charles Kulander.

62

Place of a Lifetime: Tunisia
A mystery writer goes in search of ancient Carthage and discovers this North African country's timeless appeal. By Lyn Hamilton.

121

Trips
Top solo travel spots: Australia, New York, Las Vegas, Italy • Calendar • WorldWise quiz • and more.

130

Parting Shot
The issue's most memorable photograph.