Craig Clapperton samples spirits at Cadenheads, Edinburgh’s preeminent purveyor of single-malt Scotch whiskies. Photograph by Jim Richardson

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“Whisky has suffused the ethos of Scotland to a degree unequalled by any liquor in any other culture,” writes Scottish food and wine commentator Derek Cooper in his definitive Guide to the Whiskies of Scotland.

Cadenheads sells prized whiskies from some long-defunct distilleries. Photograph by Jim Richardson

The word “whisky” comes from the Gaelic uisge beatha, an adaption of the Latin phrase aqua vitae, meaning “the water of life.” Indeed water is one of whisky’s basic ingredients, along with barley, which have been farmed in Scotland for centuries. Malted barley is combined with water to form a mash, fermented with yeast, then distilled in copper stills and aged in casks over the course of 3 to 25 years.

The quality of the peat used to fire the kilns in the malting process, the amount of heat, the purity of the water used in the distilling process, and even the type of wooden cask used to mature the whisky all contribute to the final taste, which connoisseurs appreciate for its distinctly rich, smoky flavor.

Producing whisky is a proud tradition among Scots. “Whisky was the common man’s drink, not the lords’ or landowners,’” says Craig Clapperton of Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop in Edinburgh. “It was our own specific drink so its heritage dates back for many generations.”

Scotland has more than a hundred malt whisky distilleries, which primarily produce blended whisky, a combination of malt whisky and grain (such as wheat or maize) whisky. Famous blends include Cutty Sark and J&B. Less than half of these distilleries offer single malts.

A single-malt Scotch, like that produced by Glenfiddich or Glenmorangie, is the product of only one distillery and is not combined with another malt or grain whisky. However, casks of various ages are mixed to create a product with a uniform flavor. An even finer distinction is that of single-cask malt whisky, bottled from just one cask at one distillery; each cask is entirely unique in flavor. Finally, vatted malt is created when malts from more than one distillery are mixed.

Historically each region of Scotland developed its own distinct flavor of whisky, explains Clapperton. “People would produce it in a still in their homes for family and friends.” Even today flavors can vary among regions. Lowland Scotch tends to be light and dry, while Scotch from the Speysides region can be sweet and slightly peaty. A good malt, readily available in Edinburgh’s bars, is best enjoyed on its own or accompanied by a small glass of beer. Whisky tastings are a good way to sample the differences in flavor.

WHISKEY RESOURCES

Store with a Vast Collection of Single Malts
Cadenhead’s Whiskey Shop
172 Canongate
Edinburgh
Scotland
Telephone: +1 011 44 31 556 5864

Organized Tastings (Contact Information)
The Scotch Malt Whisky Society
The Vaults
87 Giles Street
Edinburgh EH6 6BZ
Scotland
Telephone: +1 011 44 31 554 3451
Fax: +1 011 44 31 553 1003
Web site: http://www.smws.com

Interactive Tour
Take the Edinburgh Malt Whisky Tour:
http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/jhb/whisky.

Books

Derek Cooper’s Guide to the Whiskies of Scotland (mentioned above) is out of print. His 1992 book, The Little Book of Malt Whiskies, is available from Irish Books and Media (+1 612 871 3358 or 800 229 3505; http://www.irishbook.com ).

—Julian Ward

Read the feature story on Edinburgh “The Once & Future City,” in the September 1999 issue of TRAVELER magazine.