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Places of a Lifetime: The Don CeSar

Don CeSar

Once a haven for the likes of F. Scott Fitzgerald, Florida’s Don CeSar now attracts families: Twenty-five percent of guests bring the kids.
Photograph by Theo Westenberger

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Pink is what red looks like when it kicks off its shoes and lets its hair down. Pink is the boudoir color, the cherubic color, the color of heaven’s gates. (Not gold, brothers and sisters. Pink.) Pink is as laid-back as beige, but while beige is innocuous and bland, pink is laid-back with attitude. The Don CeSar (275 rooms and all the water sports a bipedal mammal can handle) wears that attitude well. It knows that it looks as if it were carved out of bubble gum, as if it mutated from a radioactive conch patch, as if it leaked from the vat where old flamingos go to dye—but the Don CeSar doesn’t care. It simply winks, lazily flaunts its pigmentation, and like a panther that’s peddled its last lucrative roll of home insulation, turns its face to the sun.

Bather

Pretty in pink: a bather relaxes at the Don. From 1942 to ’67, the Florida landmark served as a convalescent center and VA headquarters.
Photograph by Theo Westenberger

Excerpted from “Tom Robbins’ Big Pink,” by Tom Robbins. Read more about the novelist’s Personal Place of a Lifetime in the March 2000 issue of TRAVELER.



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