A view of the city of Lyon, with the towers of the Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-Fourviere seen in the distance. Photograph © James L. Stanfield

Lyon, The Real France
By Suzy Gershman

As a writer of shopping guidebooks, I pride myself on always finding a perfect gift. But last spring, en route to visit friends in Cannes via four days in Lyon, I realized I was still empty-handed. Then it hit me. I was only a block from Bernachon, one of the best chocolatiers in France. Voilà! I dashed over and bought a box of éclairs.

Lyon is known for its food, bien sûr, but also for the long walks along its two rivers—the Saône and the Rhône—and for the sight of flowers and produce at the outdoor markets. You go to Lyon to soak up the glory of La Vraie France—the real France.

The metro is modern; the alleys are older than Marie Antoinette. The city is known for its Michelin-starred restaurants, but I prefer its homey, less-pricey bistros. My regular hangout is Brasserie Le Nord, where the traditional Lyonnaise fare includes local carvela sausage, escargots, and foie gras.

In Vieux Lyon, home of Guignol (the Punch and Judy of France), there are dozens of shops that sell handmade marionettes, pastries, and fancy antiques. The Musée des Arts Décoratifs is a good place to view local arts and crafts, and old master paintings hang at the Musée des Beaux Arts. Year-round, Lyon offers a window on both modern and medieval France.

The information in this story was accurate at the time it was published, but we suggest you confirm all details before making travel plans.