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Niagara-on- When I lived in Niagara-on-the-Lake as a teenager, I often complained that it was too sedate and sleepy. Now those very qualities make it an inviting retreat from the jet stream of modern life. Within a day's drive of New York City, Detroit, and Pittsburgh, and only one and a half hours from Toronto, this town on the southern shore of Lake Ontario is a quaint nest of lovingly preserved neoclassic and Regency architecture. Niagara-on-the-Lake is best known for the 40-year-old Shaw Festival (800-511-7429; www.shawfest.com), whose repertory company specializes in plays written by George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries. Productions run from April to November, and this year include Shaw's The Millionairess as well as Peter Pan, The Man Who Came to Dinner, and Noël Coward's Shadow Play. Niagara-on-the-Lake has also been called—a tad hyperbolically—the prettiest town in Canada. But much of its charm lies in the presence of its past. Start with a thorough regional download at the Niagara Historical Museum (43 Castlereagh St.; 905-468-3912), filled with local artifacts.
Or just step outside and roam the town itself. Play the nine-hole Niagara-on-the-Lake Golf Club (143 Front St.; 905-468-3424), and you'll discover an unusual hazard: the earthworks of Fort Mississauga, built in 1813. Amble, or ride a horse-drawn carriage, through the Old Town; explore graceful residential lanes or browse the shops on Queen Street, notable for its 1866 wooden apothecary and central clock tower. Head to the marina for a Niagara River cruise on North America's last wood-fired steamer. Or explore the restored Fort George (Queen's Parade; 905-468-6600). Even the accommodations reek of history. Besides the more than 200 B&Bs in and around town are four top-drawer choices: the Pillar & Post Inn (48 John & King; +1 888 669 5566), a restored peach and tomato canning factory with spa (plan to have dinner here, too); the Prince of Wales Hotel (6 Picton St.; +1 888 669 5566), which boasts a "secret garden" spa; Queen's Landing Inn (155 Byron St.; +1 905 468 2195), a Georgian mansion with some rooms offering river views, fireplaces, and four-poster beds; and the Oban Inn (160 Front St.; +1 905 468 2165), an elegant old coach house overlooking golf courses and the lake, where the Shaw Cafe and Wine Bar (92 Queen St.; +1 905 468 4772) serves afternoon tea. Once you've feasted on history, jump on the Niagara Parkway, a 15-mile scenic route leading to Niagara Falls. "There's a trail along the road that's great for biking or in-line skating," says my brother, Bruce Bellows, a city planner in nearby St. Catherines. The route is also dotted with fruit stands. Stop in Queenston to climb the 184-foot Brock Monument for a view of the distant falls, picnic at the band shell, or dine at the Queenston Heights Restaurant (14184 Niagara Pkwy.; +1 905 262 4274), said to be the place for romance. When you reach Niagara Falls, park and peer over the lip. Adventurous? Explore the tunnels behind the falls, take the gondola over the Whirlpool Rapids, or boat to the foot of the cascade on the Maid of the Mist. Then head back to Niagara-on-the-Lake. "For my money," Bellows says, "it's the hub of Canada's best year-round destination. We live in the area, but we don't take it for granted—so that must mean it's something special." The information in this story was accurate at the time it was published, but we suggest you confirm all details before making travel plans.
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