National Geographic Traveler: College Towns

In Traveler magazine's March 2005 issue, assistant editor George Stone reports on happening college towns in North America. Here we reveal three additional favorites, exclusive to Traveler Online.

Kingston, Ontario
Athens, Georgia
Bozeman, Montana

Ontario's oldest city is the freshwater sailing capital of North America and a spectacular place to spend a long weekend.

Located at the mouth of the St. Lawrence and Cataraqui Rivers, at the gateway to the Thousand Islands and Lake Ontario, Kingston is blessed with watery wealth. Sailing (or kayaking, or almost anything aquatic) is a way of life here, but that doesn't mean the limestone-rich land goes overlooked: at least 17 museums (dedicated to archaeology, geology, history, pottery, woodworking, and hockey) tell the story of Kingston.

Locals live well, whether they're scrubbing boats in the yacht basin or biking and hiking trails beyond the city. "A perfect day in Kingston goes something like this," explains Brett House, who studied at Queen's College. "Begin with a walk around the lovely waterfront limestone buildings, and then eat the best, hugest Dutch pancakes ever at Wildmills Café. Visit the Agnes Etherington Art Centre and then go sailing on Lake Ontario or kayaking on the Cataraqui River or take the Wolfe Island Ferry. Back in town, visit the weekend farmers markets on the central square and work up an appetite for dinner at Chez Piggy, followed by a traditional Nova Scotian-folk ballad sing-a-long at a pub." This perfect day can be repeated, if necessary.

Kingston At-a-Glance

Fast Fact: Kingston was the first capital of the united Upper and Lower Canada (before the national seat of government was moved to Ottawa in the 1840s), and the city was host of the 1976 Montreal Olympic sailing events.

Population: 116,000

The Big Schools: Queens University (1841) and the Royal Military College (1876)

Best Time to Go: Summer, when temperatures average 75°F and festivals abound. The Annual Buskers Rendezvous (July) hosts musicians, magicians, jugglers, mimes, and other street performers from all over the world. The Limestone City Blues Festival (August) features first-rate blues and jazz. And CORK: the Canadian Olympic training regatta (August) lures hundreds of sailors and spectators to the waterfront. The Queens-McGill rugby game (October) is a classic confrontation.

Outdoor Escapes: Nothing beats being on the water; for lazy cruises aboard classic steamers, try 1000 Islands Cruises (+1 800 848 0011 [U.S. and Canada]). In summertime, the 20-minute Wolfe Island Ferry (+1 613 385 2262) leaves from the Marysville Dock to Cape Vincent.

Trip Planner: The Kingston Tourist Information Office is at 209 Ontario St. (888 855 4555 [U.S. and Canada]). For a Kingston overview, take a 50-minute tour aboard the city's Confederation Tour Trolley.

Don't Miss: Fort Henry (Hwy. 2 west of Hwy. 15; +1 613 542 7388) is a restored 19th-century citadel that offers guided tours, musical performances, and military demonstrations. The Sunset Ceremonies, held every Wednesday throughout July and August, are sublime. Agnes Etherington Art Centre (University & Queen's Cres.; +1 613 533 2190) is one of Canada's best museums.

Good Eating: In the heart of downtown, Windmills Café (184 Princess St.; +1 613 544 3948) cooks up the city's best brunch. Chez Piggy (68-R Princess St.; +1 613 549 7673) is Kingston's most innovative (monkfish tajine with coriander and parsley sauce) and satisfying eateries; a fine bakery is attached, and the place was founded (appropriately) by a band member from the Lovin' Spoonful.

Recommended Rooms: A few blocks from Queen's University, and close to Fort Henry, the Rideau Canal, and Wolfe Island Ferry, the Hotel Belvedere (141 King St. East; 800 559 0584 [U.S. and Canada]; $150-300) has 20 elegant rooms. The Frontenac Club Inn (225 King St. East; +1 613 547 6167; $140-275) is a nine-room, 1845 limestone building in historic downtown.

Magnolias and B52s compete for your attention in this breezy, beautiful, musical southern city.

It's best to be seated when Leara Rhodes, a professor of journalism at the University of Georgia, starts extolling the virtues of Athens. "We're the smallest county in the state, but we have 37 venues for music and 550 bands. We have two opera companies, three symphonies, at least four independent theaters, a bus system, gardens, coffeehouses, great restaurants, music, piercings, conservatives, liberals, athletes. We have everything here, and that's why I love it."

A perfect day in Athens (and to Rhodes, most days qualify) includes at least one stop at Blue Sky Café, a walk through the State Botanical Gardens, a visit to the Georgia Museum of Art, quiche at the Bluebird Café, a walk past the Morton Theater (an old vaudeville venue and one of the first theaters in the U.S. to be owned by African Americans), a musical shopping spree at Wuxtry Records and Schoolkids Records (both on Clayton St.), dinner at the Five Star Day Café, and an evening of live music at the 40 Watt Club (where REM and the B52s got started).

Athens At-a-Glance

Fast Fact: In 1785, the University of Georgia in Athens was founded as America's first publicly chartered university.

Population: 100,266

The Big School: University of Georgia (1785)

Best Time to Go: Spring, summer, and fall. The Twilight Festival (April) features the Twilight Criterium bike race. Athfest (June) is a downtown music celebration that draws more than a hundred bands and 10,000 fans. October brings folk, harvest, and wine festivals.

Outdoor Escapes: The rose garden of the State Botanical Gardens of Georgia (2450 S. Milledge Ave; +1 706 542 1244) blooms May-September.

Trip Planner: The Athens Welcome Center is located in what is believed to be the city's oldest surviving residence, the Church-Waddel-Brumby House (280 E. Dougherty St.; +1 706 353 1820). Classic City Tours offers a cool 90-minute bus tour of the city (+1 706 208 8687; fee).

Don't Miss: The Georgia Museum of Art (90 Carlton St.; +1 706 542 4662); Morton Theater (195 W. Washington St.; +1 706 613 3770).

Recommended Rooms: The Magnolia Terrace Guest House (277 Hill St.; +1 706 548 3860; $85-165) is a cozy eight-room Victorian inn. The Nicholson House Inn (6295 Jefferson Rd.; +1 706 353 2200; $109-159) is an eight-room antebellum inn. Both are located near downtown.

Mentioned Above: Blue Sky Café (128 College Ave.; +1 706 354 0880); Bluebird Café (493 E. Clayton St.; +1 706 549 3663); Five Star Day Café (229 E. Broad St.; +1 706 543 8552); 40 Watt Club (285 W. Washington St.; +1 706 549 7871).

Here in Big Sky country, surrounded by the Gallatin National Forest, beautiful scenery, trout, and T. rex compete for your attention.

Bozeman is such a unique place, it even has its own smell. "Very sweet and piney," explains Lynn Donaldson, a former long-time resident and photojournalist. "Bozeman is a fantasyland. It's not just rural, it's a college town full of people who love the outdoors. We've got hiking, biking, and climbing in the Hyalite Canyon; skiing at the Bridger Bowl; and kayaking or fly-fishing nearby.

Downtown is full of flowers and shops. Grab a coffee at the Leaf & Bean, or a sandwich at the Community Co-Op. Go to the Crystal Bar, and you'll have a cowboy from Two Dot on one side, and a Manhattan ex-dot-commer on the other. A friend joked that if he opened a store called Everything Trout, it would be a huge success here."

Bozeman At-a-Glance

Fast Fact: Founded by trailblazer John M. Bozeman in 1864, Bozeman gave birth to countless fly fishermen and cowboys. Movie star Gary Cooper attended college here.

Population: 27,509

The Big School: Montana State University (1893)

Best Time to Go: The Sweet Pea Festival at Lindley Park is held the first full weekend each August. It was founded in 1978 as a community festival. Today, it's a music and arts festival, with a parade and bands from country and blues to rock and reggae, dance, art, and even a little Shakespeare from Montana Shakespeare in the Parks. By September, the summer tourists are gone, the light is golden, and the students are making merry.

Outdoor Escapes: Gallatin National Forest (Hyalite Canyon), Bozeman Ranger District (+1 406 522 2520). Bridger Bowl (+1 800 223 9609 [U.S. and Canada]) is just 16 miles north of town, on Mont. 86. Bozeman is only two hours north of Yellowstone National Park.

Trip Planner: The Bozeman Area Chamber of Commerce is located at 2000 Commerce Way (800 228 4224 [U.S. and Canada]). From Memorial Day to Labor Day, there's an information kiosk at 1001 N. Seventh Ave., and there's a Downtown Bozeman Association (+1 406 586 4008) at 224 E. Main St.

Don't Miss: The Museum of the Rockies (600 W. Kagy Blvd.; +1 406 994 2251; fee). A showcase of Rocky Mountain history, geology, wildlife, and culture for the past 4.6 million years. Highlights include a life-size cast of a T. rex skull and the high-tech Taylor Planetarium. The museum's curator of paleontology, Dr. Jack Horner, served as a scientific consultant for the movie Jurassic Park.

Good Eating: Sushi, which is popular among locals, is available at several restaurants. Also try John Bozeman's Bistro (125 W. Main St.; +1 406 587 4100) for delicious local fare. Other popular hangouts include: Leaf & Bean (35 W. Main St.; +1 406 587 1580), Community Food Co-Op (908 W. Main St.; +1 406 587 4037), and Crystal Bar (123 E. Main St.; +1 406 587 2888).

Recommended Rooms: Bozeman has its share of campsites and chain hotels. A more stylish place to stay is the Voss Inn (319 S. Willson Ave.; +1 406 587 0982), a cozy, well-appointed Victorian mansion.

Want to read about more great college towns? Pick up the March 2005 issue of Traveler, on newsstands this month.