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From the A*List Deals Weekly Newsletter
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Chao Phraya Boat Tour
Excerpt from National Geographic Traveler: Thailand guidebook
Text by Phil Macdonald & Carl Parkes Photo by Theo Westenberger
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Cruising the Chao Phraya river provides a unique way to see Bangkok. |
Exploring the Chao Phraya river by boat is one of Bangkok's greatest pleasures. A commuter ferry—the inexpensive Chao Phraya River Express—makes stops up the river's east bank as far as Nonthaburi. To visit sites on the west bank, however, you'll have to take shuttles across the river at various points. A more leisurely option is to visit the east bank sites by commuter ferry one day, then return to visit the west bank sites by longtail boat (about $10 an hour) the next.
*Bolded names and numbers in the text below correspond with our map of this walking tour.
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The white-and-red Express boats run every 20 minutes, from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.; you pay the fare once aboard. Start at Tha (pier) Sathon, where Sathon Road meets the Chao Phraya at Taksin Bridge, and head upriver.
The Express soon makes its first stop, at Tha Oriental, named after the venerable hotel. The nearby Old Customs House, the East Asiatic Company building, and, a little farther north near Tha Mueng Khae, the General Post Office are fine examples of colonial architecture. Also from Bangkok's colonial era is Holy Rosary Church (1), just beyond the riverside Royal Orchid Sheraton hotel. Portuguese Catholics, who moved over from Thon Buri to the new capital of Bangkok, built the church in 1787.
On the river's Thon Buri bank you can see two rarely visited Ayutthaya-style temples. Wat Thammachat features impressive murals depicting scenes dating from the reigns of Rama III and Rama IV. Wat Thong Noppakhun is notable for its bronze panels detailing the Buddha's life.
The Express glides under Memorial Bridge to Tha Saphan Phut. Opened in 1932 by King Rama VII (Prajadhipok), to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the Chakri dynasty, the bridge was the first to span the river. At Tha Saphan Phut you can jump ship and visit the colorful Pak Khlong Market (2), immediately behind the pier, and the nearby Little India neighborhood. You can also hop onto longtail taxi boats to the maze of khlongs, or canals, in Thon Buri.
At Tha Rachini shuttle boats carry passengers to Thon Buri and three notable sites. Wat Prayun (3), built in the early 19th century under Rama III, is memorable for its central hillock planted with small chedis and frangipani trees. Around the hill is a pond full of turtles that are regularly fed by worshippers to gain merit. The temple's two vihans have doors inlaid with mother-of-pearl and extensively ornate gables. Just north of Wat Prayun is Santa Cruz Church (4), another place of worship constructed by Portuguese Catholics fleeing the Burmese invaders of Ayutthaya. Wat Kalayanimit (5), next to Santa Cruz Church, houses an immense Buddha image and more murals from the time of Rama III. Just before Tha Tien, near Wat Pho and the Grand Palace is Chakrabongse House. Built in 1909 by Rama V, it is one of the last royal residences on the Chao Praya. From Tha Tien you can explore Wat Pho, Wat Phra Kaeo, and the Grand Palace (6), and take a shuttle boat across the river to Wat Arun (7).
Farther upriver, on the Thon Buri side, the Express stops at Tha Rakhang, near Wat Rakhang Kositharam (8). This little-visited temple is noted for its superb library consisting of three late 18th-century timber buildings, the residence of Rama I before he became king. From here, you get a fine view of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaeo, and Wat Pho.
Exit at Tha Maharat for Wat Mahathat (9), the National Museum, and Thammasat University. Thammasat is the most prestigious university in Thailand after Chulalongkorn. It's seen its share of unrest: In 1973 students led protests that overthrew the military government, and in 1976 it was the awful scene of right-wing revenge, when paramilitaries and vigilantes murdered more than 200 students.
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