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IT—Inside Traveler
By Jessie Johnston and Emily King

August 17, 2006:

Simon Says: Eat Junk Food

In the last few years, schools around the world have cracked down on unhealthy food being served in their cafeterias. IT is all about healthy eating, especially for the grade-school set. Still, you can have too much even of a good thing (despite what Mae West says), so we were happy to discover the antithesis to this nutritionally-minded trend in a burgeoning restaurant-biz phenomenon: high end junk food.

IT was recently intrigued by some items on the dessert menu at Sofitel Los Angeles's new restaurant Simon L.A. Sprinkled between the usual swanky subjects (sour cream cheesecake, crème brulée), we found grilled donuts, milk and cookies, "a mountain of pink cotton candy," and, guiltiest pleasure of all, the Simon Junk Food Sampler. For $25, your table can indulge in an assortment of Rice Krispie Treats (chocolate and vanilla), cotton candy, caramel popcorn, chocolate-chip cookies, a milkshake, two single-scoop cups of ice cream, and chef Kerry Simon's interpretations of Hostess Sno Balls and cupcakes.

We have yet to make it to the City of Angels to try out this upscale lowbrow extravaganza, but are pleased to bring you a firsthand report about one fluffy portion of the platter. Emily's anti-candy father was persuaded to sample the fancy cotton candy at Simon's Las Vegas eatery in the Hard Rock Hotel: "They present it in a big popcorn bowl that's heaping over the top. You pass it around the table and everyone pulls off a piece. It's really fun!"

Home Sweet (and Salty) Home

National Geographic Traveler's assistant online editor Mary Beth LaRue often brags about her alma mater, the University of Iowa, despite barrages of corn and farmer jokes, and the occasional puzzled look ("I know the state exists, but where is it?"). But Iowa City, which she likes to call the "cultural hub" of the Midwest, is home to the Iowa Writers' Workshop, fabulous restaurants, and outdoor festivals. Mary Beth traveled "home" for a long weekend and reported back to IT with her favorite spots:

"Like any region with a viciously hot summer, early fall is the best time to visit. Get a cheap flight into Chicago, only four hours away, and catch a train or flight heading into the nearby city of Cedar Rapids. For a scenic fall walk, run, or bike ride, check out the paths along the Iowa River, which wind through the university campus. Or just wander through the area's quiet residential neighborhoods, many of which are dotted with restaurants and boutiques.

"Try the downtown farmers' market. There is a great selection of locally grown produce as well as delectable baked goods. If you miss the market, you can just go straight to the source. Bike or drive to the Amana Colonies, a utopian society comprised of seven villages on 20,000 acres of land outside of Iowa City. Visit Hahn's Hearth Oven Bakery, a bakery selling breads and pastries that are baked in the original wood-fired stone hearth. For Amana ham, bacon, and kasseler rippchen (smoked pork chops), stop by the Homestead Meat Shop and Smokehouse.

"Market Street is my absolute favorite. There's Dave's Fox Head Tavern (402 East Market St.; +1 319 351 9824), a bar known for its phenomenal jukebox, Writers' Workshop clientele, and Iowa City-beloved Pabst Blue Ribbon. Down the street is Artifacts (331 East Market St.; +1 319 358 9617) and Decorum (323 East Market St.; +1 319 354 2183), two used-furniture/hodgepodge stores filled with treasures like old Life magazines, worn cowboy boots, and antique side tables. Also check out the Northside Book Market, a used bookstore with rows of dusty hardcovers and cheap finds.

"When back in Iowa City, I usually plan which restaurants I'll hit well in advance. Try the downtown Indian restaurant Masala (9 South Dubuque St.; +1 319 338 6199) for a delicious vegetarian lunch buffet of naan, chole batura chickpea curry, and more, for around $6. For cheap deals on "Big Girls," 23-ounce steins of any beer, stop by Quinton's Bar and Deli (215 East Washington St.; +1 319 354 7074) during happy hour from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. on weekdays. With so many favorites, I can never decide where to have dinner. Will it be sangria and a portobello and asiago quesadilla at Devotay, or vegetable curry from the Red Avocado?

"The Englert Theatre was constructed in 1912 and has recently been renovated. The brightly lit marquee is a staple of downtown Iowa City's brick-paved pedestrian mall and a great stop for plays, concerts, and speakers. If looking for a grittier scene, try The Picador, formerly known as Gabe's Oasis, at 330 East Washington St. This concert venue is a grungy but prominent downtown spot that attracts big-name indie and punk acts."

IT's editors considered blogging about their college towns, but alas, there's not much to do in either place.

From August 15, 2006:

Mind the Battering Ram

This week chief researcher and armchair adventurer extraordinaire Marilyn Terrell shares with us one of the joys of fact-checking—learning ancient trivia:

"While checking the official name of a Greek temple built in Sicily 2,500 years ago, I came across this wonderful snippet from the March/April 1984 edition of the journal Archaeology. In an article entitled 'The Greek Temples of Sicily,' classical scholar Robert S. Bianchi explained how the Greeks got around the inconvenient and expensive problem of building huge limestone walls far from Sicilian quarries:

"'The architects…calculated the absolute height above which battering rams were rendered ineffective and built in limestone to that level. The economical use of brick topped off the walls to their completed height without compromising their defensive purposes.' I love my job!

"And I discovered that Dr. Bianchi leads archaeological tours. His next one, called 'Splendors of Ancient Egypt,' leaves October 31 for 20 days; he'll lead another Egyptian tour in February '07."

If IT can get the time off, we toooootally want to spend Halloween learning ancient construction secrets. No, seriously. We really do.

Dog Blog: Brunch in Berlin

IT's editors have been getting bombarded with pet travel ideas; thus, the first of many dog blog installments. First up? Travel writer Denise Dubé—a mother of three (kids) and one cat—recently paid a visit to a dog-friendly brunch in Berlin. She reports:

"In Germany dogs are revered and even invited to visit. One Berlin hotel not only has its own dogs, it treats others as treasured guests, worthy of a meal, sans begging. The Großer Kurfürst hotel hosts a weekly brunch (Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.) where diners are encouraged to bring a mops (pug).

"Attendance varies. According to general manager Jens Peters anywhere from 10-15 people and their pugs make their way into the lobby of the multi-floor hotel, located by the Spree River in mid-Berlin. Once there, two- and four-footed guests are greeted by the hotel's own pugs, Max and Friedrich Wilhelm.

"Couples, singles, groups—all with pugs in tow—are brought to two rooms. Two-legged creatures go to the restaurant while their four-legged friends are brought to a nearby conference room. Both are served a full brunch. While those who speak ask for eggs and other savory delights, the pugs bark for specially made doggy fare. The brunch is only held during the fall, winter, and spring because as Peters said, 'it's too hot in the summer.'

"Not a dog lover? The Großer Kurfürst also has bowls of goldfish that guests may keep in their rooms."

Prior to packing your pooch to Deutschland, IT suggests you refer to the German Consulate's new rules for pets entering the EU. Take note of the small print: They only allow five pets per person! For those of you with say, seven pugs, try the Dog Days Brunch held every Sunday of August at Opus 22 in New York City.

E-mail your feedback and tips to InsideTraveler@ngs.org.

Bookmark IT! www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler/extras/blog/blog.html

Now that she's stuck indoors at her desk for the summer, Traveler's assistant to the editor Emily King misses the days when her only responsibility was serving turkey enchiladas at the Greenery Restaurant. Researcher Jessie Johnston, on the other hand, is only mildly nostalgic for the summers she spent serving hot chocolate and samosas to hundreds of people during the 15-minute intermissions at a free outdoor Shakespeare festival.

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