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IT—Inside Traveler
By Jessie Johnston and Emily King

January 18, 2007:

Weekend Sherpa

Since we can't always rely on Andy Isaacson and Laurel Kellner to send us their NorCal tips, we subscribe to Weekend Sherpa, a free weekly e-mail newsletter giving "insiders' recommendations on the best outdoor pursuits exclusive to Northern California" (and written in part by one of Traveler's contributing editors, Andrew Nelson). Delivered to our e-mail inbox each Thursday, the newsletter suggests how we should spend our weekend. Sometimes it sends us (virtually, of course) hiking up local peaks like Mt. Tamalpais and Mt. Diablo, navigating untrampled ski trails in Tahoe, or overnighting in yurts near the ocean in Big Sur. Weekend Sherpa lists easy, inexpensive ways to spend your weekends—the perfect source for people (read: most of us) that don't have time during the weekdays to research Saturday's activities. If you'd rather not subscribe to the free newsletter—though we suggest you do—you can visit Sherpa's well-designed website, which offers access to their archives and allows you to search getaways by activity (bike, hike, water) or location (San Francisco, East Bay, Peninsula). While IT thanks Sherpa for such a great product, we must ask: When will D.C. get its own edition?

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Winter Wonderland

Snow in southwestern Pennsylvania has been scarce so far this winter, but that didn't stop senior editor Norie Quintos and her sons from enjoying a late December visit to the Laurel Highlands:

"Okay, so it wasn't as white and wintry as I would've liked, but the optimistic, hard-working folks at Seven Springs Mountain Resort were assiduously making snow and determined vacationers were skiing on it. We opted for the far-less-technical snow tubing down ice-slick runs—get there before 10 a.m., as tickets ($11 per person for a two-hour time slot) can sell out.

"And who knew that no white stuff is needed to go dog sledding? At Nemacolin Woodlands, the expansive luxury resort complex owned by the Hardy family (the self-made Joe Hardy founded the hugely successful 84 Lumber), Stephanie Peske, head dog musher, substitutes a German-made four-wheel cart for a sled, and up to ten Alaskan sled dogs pull guests through the woods. The ride costs $125 for two, and you don't have to stay at the resort to sign up. Another family activity: popping off clay targets at Nemacolin's Shooting Academy. Introductory packages including equipment start at $45 for youth, $70 for adults (note: children need to weigh at least 100 lbs/45 kg).

"Adults and older kids will appreciate Fallingwater. Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, the nearly 70-year-old house—built in the woods and over a waterfall—is recognized by the American Institute of Architects as 'the best all-time work of American architecture.' As such, it draws the crowds, especially after celeb-couple Brangelina made a recent visit. Reserve a spot in advance; tickets ($16 per adult, $10 for kids) are in high demand.

"In nearby Somerset county, pay your respects at the site of the United Flight 93 crash that occurred on September 11, 2001. On a hillside overlooking the empty field is a temporary memorial run by the National Park Service. A somber remembrance."

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From January 16, 2007:

Feeding the Rich to Feed the Poor

You already know IT likes to eat. You also know that we like to do so on the cheap, if possible. And while we certainly enjoyed saving on delicious meals during Washington's just-passed Restaurant Week, we're fascinated by a new way to feel good about dining out that has taken hold in one of our favorite eating cities: Montreal.

Since the end of July, Montreal's Robin des Bois restaurant (named for Sherwood Forest's most well-known resident) has been doing good deeds by serving good food. The restaurant's goal is to donate all of its proceeds to charity, and in order to keep that amount as high as possible, almost none of their workers receive payment. The chefs (led by former Toqué! denizen Myriam Pelletier) and managers are paid, but all serving, bussing, prepping and cleaning is done by the 1,500 volunteers (some of them celebrities) who have registered and signed up for shifts on the restaurant's website.

According to a recent interview, the restaurant is so far only breaking even. But when they do turn a profit, the money will go to support six local charities, including women's shelters, youth organizations, and a meals-on-wheels program. There has even been talk of a TV show about the restaurant. We don't live close enough to take on dicing duty, but IT volunteers to eat the next time we're on the Main.

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IT Hits the Beach

IT's friend and on-call beach expert Laurel Kellner took an off-season jaunt to the Virginia coast, and came back with sand between her toes and tips on the brain:

"Waking up in Virginia Beach during the off-season you realize this: it's one of the best times to enjoy the place. Tourists? Few to none. Room rates? We found as low as $49 (plus tax) at the Best Western just a few blocks from the boardwalk. A spectacular sunrise over the sea enticed us to enjoy the morning merits of more than two miles of flat sandy beach—perfect for strolling and scoping surfers riding the early waves.

"Heading north, we admired the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. It's an engineering marvel at the mouth of the biggest bay in the U.S. The vehicle toll is a steep $12, but the singular view is worth it. Cruising over the glimmering water one second, you're under it the next. (Those with a fear of small spaces beware: The white tiles of the tunnel walls glint red reflections of rear car lights. The unnerving effect? A claustrophobic tunnel that looks as if it's caving in with the massive weight of the water over it.)

"Our first stop was the Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge. We passed no one on the Butterfly Trail nor on our ascent to the WWII-era bunker. Stunning vistas of unspoiled marsh stretched out below. Over the background sound of the ocean, we heard twittering flocks of birds in flight. Surprisingly, the trees where some perched still held their colored leaves.

"Instead of taking the slower Route 600, we headed north on Highway 13—which still allows a chance to take in the scenery—then veered off on 184 to adorable Cape Charles. Two mermaids greeted us as we entered town on Randolph Street, which dead-ends at the beach. Startlingly clear water and light sand—peppered with oyster shells, sparkling rocks and bunches of seaweed—make the small beach a must-visit, especially with kids. Over the sandy spit perched a small pagoda, perfect for watching waves lap against the shore but protected from sun and wind. The 'small farmers market' recommended by the refuge ranger was indeed just that: two men sitting at a folding table in an empty parking lot, hawking a box of surprisingly sweet tangerines and some potatoes, three for a dollar.

"We ended with a coffee at the magnificent Cape Charles Coffee House (241 Mason Ave; +1 757 331 1880). Sipping on giant cappuccinos (the small is the size of a Starbucks 'grande'), we enjoyed the cheesecake (served with fresh blackberries) and the pecan-crusted pumpkin pie. Colorful local artwork added a homey touch to the walls of the upper level, which looks out onto the small port. The wide wooden tables are perfect for spreading out the morning paper or a day's work, or, if you're in a hurry, you can buy cookies, sweets, original spice mixes for meats and entrees, and various organic teas to take with you."

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Now that they have a new year's worth of annual leave to schedule, Traveler's assistant to the editor Emily King is fantasizing about following a camel train through Mauritanian desert, while researcher Jessie Johnston has her sights set on New Orleans and Kobe, Japan.

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