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Passages through India
Himalaya Sojourn
Jewels of the East
Ladakh: Little Tibet
Land of the Mahajaras
Serenity of the South
Wonders of the West
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Jewels of the East
Text by Sarina Singh    Photo by Dilip Mehta
Photo: Victoria Memorial, Kolkata, India
Young people gather around the musical fountain at Kolkata's Victoria Memorial.

If you're keen to jump off the tourist treadmill, the eastern Indian states of West Bengal and Orissa are worth considering. With its mix of holy sites, colorful festivals, pretty coastal towns, animal-packed wildlife sanctuaries, and stunning natural beauty, this part of India is uniquely compelling. This region also has a rich cultural tapestry—indeed one of the subcontinent's oldest classical dance forms, Odissi, originated here.

Kolkata (Calcutta)

Bhubaneshwar

Puri

Cuttack

Hirapur

Pipili

Raghurajpur

Sundarbans National Park

Udayagiri and Khandgiri Caves

Dhauli

Chilka Lake

Nandankanan Zoological Park

Konarak


Kolkata (Calcutta)

Once the capital of British India, today Kolkata (formerly called Calcutta) is India's second-largest city and a major international gateway for travelers. Most visitors only spend a night or two here, but if you set aside a few days to explore this rambunctious city, you'll be pleasantly surprised. A metropolis of over 13 million people, Kolkata has long been heralded as India's intellectual and cultural capital, evidence of which can be seen in the city's impressive array of galleries, museums, temples, colonial architecture, and performing arts venues.

How to Get There
Kolkata is a major center for international flights. It also has an extensive domestic air schedule linking it to many major and minor Indian cities. You can also get here by bus or train. Opt for a train where possible (especially for long trips) as they're far more comfortable than buses. The city has two major train stations: Howrah station, which caters to most western and southern destinations, and Sealdah station, which connects Kolkata to Siliguri (West Bengal) and the northeastern states.

How to Get Around
Kolkata's underground Metro rail system 
is an efficient and economical way to travel within the city, while the tram system only has limited services. Avoid the city buses, which are claustrophobically overcrowded. Kolkata is one of India's last places with human-powered rickshaws, found only in certain parts of the city and slowly being phased out. There is no dearth of taxis—to avoid overcharges, catch one from the prepaid taxi booth fronting the Howrah station. Auto- and cycle-rickshaws are available in Howrah as well as in a handful of other neighborhoods (always negotiate a fare before setting off). To cross the Hooghly River, other than via the Howrah Bridge, you can catch one of the ferries that ply the route between Howrah station and the Babu and Fairlie Ghats.

Attractions
The majestic Victoria Memorial is a grand legacy of the British Raj, with galleries exhibiting memorabilia from that era as well as a section devoted to India's campaign for independence.


Built by an Indian raja (nobleman) in the mid-19th century, the intriguing Marble Palace houses an eclectic mix of items, from ceramic dogs to marble busts. To visit, you must first get permission from either the West Bengal Tourist Center (3/2 BBD Bagh; tel. +91 [0]33 2248 8271
) or the India Tourist Office (4 Shakespeare Sarani; tel. +91 [0]33 2282 5813).

Kolkata is the birthplace of the iconic Bengali poet Rabindranath Tagore, who was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1913. Housed in his former family residence, which is also his resting place, is the Rabindra Bharati Museum. The museum displays various pieces once belonging to Tagore as well as paintings by Indian artists. In the evening, there's a sound-and-light show (except on Mondays). 6/4 Dwarakanath Tagore Lane.

It may seem a bit ghoulish, but the peaceful Park Street Cemetery is worth a visit to get a different angle on Kolkata's colonial past. There are some fascinating epitaphs including one to Rose Aylmer, whose untimely death was linked to her pineapple addiction! Near the southeast end of Park Street.

The Indian Museum has an admirable collection, ranging from old devotional sculptures to edgy contemporary art. There's also a very good natural history section. 27 Jawaharlal Nehru Road.

Places to Eat
There's plenty of choice when it comes to eating out in Kolkata, with a particularly impressive string of smart restaurants in the Park Street area.

Kewpie's gives travelers the chance to eat authentic and delicious home-cooked Bengali food—indeed this little eatery is located in the owner's home. The menu has a focus on fish-based dishes. It's wise to book ahead. 2 Elgin Lane; tel. +91 (0)33 2475 9880.

Bengali mithai (sweets) are among India's most popular, and a top spot to sample some of them is at the long-established K.C. Das, which actually invented the legendary rossogolla (little balls of cottage cheese boiled in sugar syrup) back in 1868 as well as the popular rossomalai. 11A&B Esplanade East.

In vogue with the who's who of Kolkata, Mainland China is so popular that you may find yourself queuing for a table (tel. +91 [0]33 2283 7964; advance bookings are recommended). This very classy restaurant gets kudos for its excellent Chinese fare, with main courses ranging from around $4-15. 3-A Gurusaday Road.

One of Kolkata's most atmospheric establishments is Peter Cat. It may not have the glamour of other restaurants in this area, but it oozes a charismatic charm of its very own. Opening back in the swinging sixties, this dimly lit cocktail bar/restaurant cooks up commendable Indian fare, served by courteous waiters decked out in smart cummerbunds and bow ties. 18 Park Street; +91 (0)33 2229 8841.

Places to Stay
Kolkata's budget and mid-range offerings are, regrettably, nothing to rave about; the city's upper-end hotels are far better value for the money. Be aware that many lower- and mid-priced properties lock their gates after 10:30 p.m. (inform them in advance if you expect to get back late).

The very swish Oberoi Grand has all the lavish touches you'd expect of a world-class five-star property. This historic hotel has beautifully appointed rooms, each with a DVD player. The more expensive suites are sheer luxury, with polished teakwood floors, fine furnishings, and marshmallow-soft beds (some suites have four-poster beds). On-site are a spa, health center, and several good restaurants. 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Road; tel. +91 (0)33 2249 2323
.

The large Great Eastern Hotel, built almost 165 years ago, is still one of Kolkata's better mid-range options, despite being a bit worn and weary (currently under renovation, it is scheduled to reopen in 2007). There are 200 rooms, all tidy and pleasantly furnished. On the premises are three restaurants: Jade Garden (Chinese), Shah-en-Shah (Indian), and the 24-hour Coffee Shop. 1-3 Old Court House Street; tel. +91 (0)33 2248 2311
.

Geared primarily to business travelers, the centrally located, 122-room Peerless Inn has modern, comfortable rooms, some with sterling city views. All rooms are equipped with tea- and coffee-making facilities, mini-refrigerators, and safes. The hotel's Aaheli restaurant serves tasty traditional Bengali fare; the excellent thalis (all-you-can-eat meals) offer a selection of dishes. 12 Jawaharlal Nehru Road; tel. +91 (0)33-2228 0301
.

General Tips
To find out what cultural events are taking place at the time of your visit, get a copy of the information-packed booklet, Cal Calling ($0.50) and the Kolkata This Fortnight pamphlet (free). Both are available at the West Bengal Tourist Center (3/2 BBD Bagh; tel. +91 [0]33 2248 8271) and a handful of hotels. Expat Aussie Martyn Brown (e-mail traveleastindia@gmail.com) leads personalized walking tours through the city. He has lived here for ten years, and knows every nook and cranny of the old markets, and the back streets that have no names.

For More Information
West Bengal Government
West Bengal Tourist Center 3/2 BBD Bagh; tel. +91 (0)33 2248 8271
.
India Tourist Office 4 Shakespeare Sarani; tel. +91 (0)33 2282 5813
.




Bhubaneshwar


A city with a vibrant legacy of sculpture, art, architecture, and spirituality, Bhubaneshwar attracts just a trickle of visitors, most of whom have a specific interest in temples. Although the town's most famous temple, the Lingaraja Temple, is officially only open to Hindus, there are scores of lesser-known places of worship that welcome non-Hindus and warrant a visit.

How to Get There
Bhubaneshwar can be reached by air, train, and bus. There are frequent plane and train services from major centers such as Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and Chennai. Most buses drop passengers at the Baramunda bus station.

How to Get Around
The best modes of transport within town are taxis, autorickshaws, and cycle rickshaws.

Attractions
The striking 177-foot-high (54-meter) Lingaraja Temple has sections that span back over 1,400 years. Dedicated to Lord Tribhuvaneswar, this auspicious temple is only open to Hindus, although non-Hindus can sneak a peak from a designated viewing platform.

Accessible to non-Hindus, the small Mukteswar Temple has detailed carvings and is considered to be one of Bhubaneshwar's most elaborate temples. Constructed in the tenth century, its highlight is the stunning curved torana (architrave).

Also worth a look is the ninth-century Brahmeswar Temple, which has intricately carved sculptures of deities and dancers.

Odissi (one of India's oldest forms of classical dance) performances occasionally take place at various venues in town. To find out if one is on during the time of your visit, peruse the daily newspaper and inquire at Orissa Tourism (Paryatan Bhawan, Museum Campus; tel. +91 [0]674 243 2177
).

To see some of the state's finest (rarest) palm-leaf manuscript collections, tribal artifacts, assorted weaponry, and more, visit the State Museum. Kalpana Square.

Places to Eat
Bhubaneshwar has a very limited choice of restaurants, with most of the better places found in a selection of hotels.

The chefs at Deep Down South create some of the town's tastiest dosas and also do a splendid job when it comes to traditional mithai. The prices are very reasonable. Marrion Hotel Complex, 6 Janpath; tel. +91 (0)674 238 0850.

Tulsi specializes in pure vegetarian fare and gets a round of applause for its filling thalis. Main dishes are under $2. Hotel Pushpak, Kalpana Square.

Places to Stay
Bhubaneshwar has accommodations to fit all budgets, making it a good place to base yourself while visiting the surrounding attractions.

The upmarket Mayfair Lagoon has luxurious cottage-style accommodations in a well-tended jungle setting, complete with a swimming pool. Jaydev Vihar; tel. +91 (0)674 236 0101.

The Hotel Sishmo offers good-quality rooms, some with distant views of the temples. There are 64 standard rooms and eight suites, all very comfortable if a little lacking in style. Facilities include a swimming pool, selection of restaurants, and a small gym. 86/A-1 Gautam Nagar; tel. +91 (0)674 243 3600
.

For those catching a train, there's the conveniently located Hotel Richi, right by the station. The rooms are reasonable considering the mid-priced rates (air-conditioned rooms are more expensive). The hotel has 24-hour checkout and a handy round-the-clock coffee shop. 122-A Station Square; tel. +91 (0)674 253 4619.

General Tips
The Ekamra Haat (next to the Exhibition Ground, Madhusudan Marg) is a government-sponsored craft village in Bhubaneshwar that is the best one-stop shopping place in Orissa state. There you'll find handloomed cottons and silks from the tribal areas, beautiful Orissa tussar silk saris, and ornate tribal jewelry. Since almost all the wares are produced (and labeled) by village cooperatives, you can be sure the work is authentic.

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Paryatan Bhawan, Museum Campus; tel. +91 (0)674 243 2177
.




Puri

Puri is one of India's holiest sites, with thousands of pilgrims flocking here to worship at the renowned Jagannath Temple. The city is also famous for its spectacular Rath Yatra festival, as well as its sandy strip of beach.

How to Get There
The town's main bus station is near Gundicha Temple. The town is also accessible by rail, but train seats can fill up in a flash (especially during the Rath Yatra festival), so it pays to make advance bookings.

How to Get Around
The best way to explore the town is by bicycle, moped, or motorcycle; these can be rented at several places along Chakra Tirtha Road. There are also taxis, cycle rickshaws, and autorickshaws.

Attractions
Dating from the 12th century, the awesome Jagannath Temple is dedicated to the Lord of the Universe (Jagannath is an incarnation of the Hindu god, Vishnu). Non-Hindus are not permitted inside the temple but can get a view of it from the roof of the library across the road (with the library's permission).

Celebrating Lord Krishna's journey from Gokul to Mathura, the colorful Rath Yatra (Car Festival) begins at the Jagannath Temple, with huge chariots—carrying images of Lord Jagannath, along with his brother and sister—hauled by men through the streets. The dates of this festival vary annually, falling in either June or July. For the exact dates, which are often only set a few months before the event, inquire at Orissa Tourism (Chakra Tirtha Road; tel. +91 [0]675 222 3536
).

Puri's beach is no match to those of Goa or Kerala states, but it's still nice enough. The best stretch is by the seaside promenade of Marine Parade, although it can get very crowded in the holiday season.

Places to Eat
There are some pleasing places to eat in Puri, with a number of restaurants catering specifically to foreign tastes.

Xanadu does an especially good job of breakfast, from hot eggs (fried, boiled, or scrambled) to crunchy muesli. They also have great lunch and dinner offerings; the prawn dishes are recommended. Chakra Tirtha Road.

Popular with travelers, the Peace Restaurant has a mishmash of menu items, from fish curry to cheese macaroni. There's a pleasant garden on-site. Chakra Tirtha Road.

Places to Stay
Puri's hotels can get booked up quickly, so it's wise to make an advance reservation, especially if you intend visiting during the Rath Yatra or on Indian holidays.

By far the most popular budget place for foreign travelers is the Z Hotel. Once a maharaja's residence, this hotel has large, well-kept rooms (try to get one with a sea view) and an easygoing vibe. There's a restaurant and garden area. Z is a good place for solo women travelers. Chakra Tirtha Road; tel. +91 (0)6752 222554
.

The mid-range Hotel Shankar International has a selection of regular rooms and cottages. Although pricier, the cottages, which have porches with quaint swing chairs, are more highly recommended than the regular rooms and still represent great value for the money. Off Chakra Tirtha Road; tel. +91 (0)6752 222696.

If you like your creature comforts, don't look any further than the beachfront Mayfair Beach Resort, which has a combination of standard rooms and cottages. All rooms are attractive and come with cable televisions and mini-bars. The cottages are more spacious and open onto a leafy garden area. The resort has two restaurants and a bar. Chakra Tirtha Road; tel. +91 (0)6752 227800
.

General Tips
Before plunging into the ocean, seek local advice about where to swim, as the currents in Puri's waters have caused drowning deaths in the past.

Women are advised not to wander alone on secluded parts of the beach (even during the day), as there have been an increasing number of muggings.

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Chakra Tirtha Road; tel. +91 (0)6752 223536.
Puri District Administration 





Cuttack

One of Orissa's most ancient cities, Cuttack was the state's capital city until 1950. Most tourists visit Cuttack on a fleeting day trip from nearby Bhubaneshwar or while en route to another destination. In terms of accommodation and restaurants, there's very little choice in Cuttack, making it best to base yourself in Bhubaneshwar.

How to Get There
Buses from a number of towns travel to Cuttack, including over a dozen daily express buses from Bhubaneshwar (the trip takes about 40 minutes).

Attractions
Cuttack's colorful bazaars are wonderful places to wander around at leisure, with little shops selling everything from silk saris to brass horns. The town is especially well known for its delicate silver filigree work, known as tarakasi.

Several kilometers north of Cuttack is the Barabati Fort, which was built in the 14th century. Today it's in ruins—only the foundations of its former nine stories remain, along with a crumbling moat.

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Arunodaya Market Building, Link Road; +91 (0)671 231 2225. 





Hirapur

This small village, located amid emerald-green paddy fields nine miles (15 kilometers) south of Bhubaneshwar, sees just a sprinkling of tourists—the only real attraction is the Yogini Temple. In terms of places to stay and eat, there's not much on offer in Hirapur. It's best to stay in Bhubaneshwar and visit Hirapur from there.

How to Get There
The best way to get here is by hiring a taxi from Bhubaneshwar or by taking one of the organized tours arranged by Bhubaneshwar's Orissa Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC) office (Lewis Road, Bhubaneshwar; tel. +91 [0]674 243 2382; e-mail
otdc@sancharnet.in).

Attractions
The ninth-century Yogini Temple is one of only four of its type in India. This low, circular temple, which is completely open to the sky, contains 64 niches that house black stone images of female deities.

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Paryatan Bhawan, Museum Complex, Bhubaneshwar; tel. +91 (0) 674 243 2177
.




Pipili

A small town located about ten miles (16 kilometers) southeast of Bhubaneshwar, Pipili's claim to fame is its magnificent appliqué work, which ranges from bedspreads and cushion covers to lanterns and wall hangings. The main street is lined with shops selling them. The majority of travelers stay in Bhubaneshwar and visit Pipili from there.

How to Get There
Pipili can easily be reached by bus from Bhubaneshwar, Puri, and Konarak. Alternatively, hire a private taxi, which gives you the liberty to stop when and where you please.

Attractions
Take a stroll along Pipili's main road to see the stunning appliqué work that's displayed outside the collection of small shops there. The appliqué work done in Pipili is so fine that it's used to adorn the chariots that carry images of Lord Jagannath during Puri's Rath Yatra (Car Festival). The best time to visit is during the early evening, when most shops are open and soothing devotional music fills the air.

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Paryatan Bhawan, Museum Campus, Bhubaneshwar; tel. +91 (0)674 243 2177.

Explore Rural India 





Raghurajpur

This little artists' village, 8.6 miles (14 kilometers) north of Puri, is basically comprised of a few streets sporting thatched brick homes that are beautifully decorated with mural paintings. Raghurajpur can be easily visited on a day trip from Puri, which is also your best bet for accommodation and restaurants.

How to Get There
From Puri, catch one of the daily buses heading for Bhubaneshwar and disembark when you get to the "Orissa Tourism Craft Village" signpost (when boarding the bus request the driver to stop here; it's about seven miles [11 kilometers] from Puri). From this signpost, it's 0.6 miles (one kilometer) to Raghurajpur. There are autorickshaws available if you're not up to the walk.

Attractions
The village's main attractions are its mural-painted houses, which are decorated with a miscellany of geometric designs as well as mythological figures. Sadly, this type of traditional painting is a dying art form in Orissa. Raghurajpur is also renowned for the craft known as chitra pothi, consisting of fine etchings done on dried palm leaves. Pattachitra, paintings executed on specially treated cotton, is also done in the village.

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Chakra Tirtha Road, Puri; tel. +91 (0)675 222 3536.
Puri District Administration

Explore Rural India 





Sundarbans National Park

A swath of mangrove swamps and forested islands in the Ganges delta, the Sundarbans is home to the world's largest wild tiger population. The area is also inhabited by a bevy of other wild creatures, such as spotted deer, crocodiles, boars, dolphins, and multiple bird species.

How to Get There
The most hassle-free way of getting to the Sundarbans National Park is by joining a tour from Kolkata. For more information, contact Kolkata's West Bengal Tourist Center (3/2 BBD Bagh, Kolkata; tel. +91 [0]332 248 8271
). If you'd rather do the trip independently, make inquiries at this office about the best way to do so.

Attractions
The verdant 998-square-mile (2,585-square-kilometer) Sundarbans Tiger Reserve, located in the delta's maze of forests and waterways is where you can take a boat cruise to try your luck at spotting one of the estimated 265-280 Bengal tigers that live here (by the way, the tigers here are adept swimmers).

Places to Stay
With just a few places to stay in the area, it pays to book ahead. The best places to eat are found in the hotels.

The most appealing accommodation option is the Sunderban Tiger Camp, which offers a combination of luxurious tents, huts, and cottages. The restaurant puts on a super buffet for lunch and dinner. Sajnekhali; tel. +91 (0)332 237 5012; e-mail info@sunderbantigercamp.com
.

A cheaper, but far less atmospheric option is the Sajnekhali Tourist Lodge, which has dormitory accommodations (these can't be booked ahead) as well as private rooms. The lodge is not in great condition, but is still one of the most central and economical places for those on a budget. Reservations are made through the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation (Strand Road, Kolkata; +91 [0]33 2248 7318; e-mail wbtdc@cal.vsnl.net.in).

General Tips
The best time to visit the Sundarbans is between October and March. All foreigners must obtain a permit (free of charge) to access the Sundarbans Tiger Reserve. This can be obtained in Kolkata at the West Bengal Tourist Center (3/2 BBD Bagh, Kolkata; tel. +91 [0]33 2248 8271
); take along your passport and set aside an hour or so for the permit-issuing process.

For More Information
West Bengal Tourist Center 3/2 BBD Bagh, Kolkata; tel. +91 (0)33 2248 8271
.
UNESCO World Heritage 





Udayagiri and Khandgiri Caves

Just 3.7 miles (six kilometers) west of Bhubaneshwar are the historic Udayagiri and Khandgiri Caves, which date from the first century B.C. The series of intricately chiseled rock-cut shelters are believed to have been carved for solitude-seeking Jain ascetics. These caves can easily be explored from nearby Bhubaneshwar, which has a number of places to stay and eat.

How to Get There
An easy and cheap way to get here is by catching an autorickshaw from nearby Bhubaneshwar (a one-way trip costs under $2). Taxis are another (more expensive) option.

How to Get Around
You explore the caves by foot.

Attractions
The well-preserved Udayagiri and Khandgiri Caves are found on two hills, with the most acclaimed caves being those of Udayagiri. The caves have ornate carvings of devotional figures, animals, and battle scenes.

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Paryatan Bhawan, Museum Campus, Bhubaneshwar; tel. +91 (0)674 243 2177
.




Dhauli

From Bhubaneshwar, it's just a five-mile (eight-kilometer) trip to Dhauli, the place where Indian emperor Ashoka converted to Buddhism in 260 B.C. Buddhism subsequently flourished in Orissa for the next four centuries. Travelers wishing to visit Dhauli can stay at nearby Bhubaneshwar, which has a range of hotels and restaurants.

How to Get There
The most convenient way to access Dhauli is by taxi or autorickshaw from Bhubaneshwar; before going anywhere, negotiate a return rate that includes sufficient waiting time at the site.

Attractions
At the base of the Dhauli hill is a rock with one of Emperor Ashoka's edicts carved into it. This rock is at the very place where the emperor waged a bloody battle in which his army defeated the forces of the Kalinga kingdom. Overcome with guilt at the immense carnage resulting from this battle, the emperor instantly converted to Buddhism. Atop a nearby hill is the large Vishwa Shanti Stupa, built in 1972 by Japanese Buddhists to pay tribute to the historical links that both Emperor Ashoka and Orissa have had to Buddhism.

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Paryatan Bhawan, Museum Campus, Bhubaneshwar; tel. +91 (0)674 243 2177
.
Dhauli




Chilka Lake

Avid bird-watchers should not miss a visit to Chilka Lake, Asia's biggest saltwater lagoon. The massive lake attracts millions of migratory birds, some making their way here from as far as Iran and Siberia.

How to Get There
Most people visit Chilka Lake from nearby Puri, from where you can hire a private taxi.

Places to Stay and Eat
The nearby town of Puri has a good range of hotels and restaurants. If you wish to stay in closer proximity to Chilka Lake, there are just a couple of decent accommodation options (which are also the best places to eat).

Yatri Niwas is a sound budget choice, located near the lake and surrounded by a nice garden. The rooms are fairly plain but otherwise good (some rooms come with attached balconies that have lake views). Satapada village; tel. +91 (0)6752 262077.

The mid-range Panthanivas Barkul Hotel has clean, comfortable rooms set in a pleasant garden. Air-conditioned rooms (more expensive) are available. Balugaon, Khurda; +91 (0)6756 220488.

Attractions
Apart from being the largest saltwater lagoon in Asia, the big attraction of Chilka Lake is its bounty of birdlife (best seen from late November to late January). Some of the many species that come here include flamingos, cranes, herons, osprey, geese, painted storks, pelicans, and kites. The lake also has an interesting range of aquatic animals, including the Irrawaddy dolphin (Orcaella brevirostris).

Kalijai Island has a temple that draws Hindu pilgrims from far and wide, especially during the Makar Mela festival (second week of January), which pays tribute to the sun god, Surya.

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Yatri Niwas Hotel, Satapada village; tel. +91 (0)6752 262077.
Orissa Tourism Chakra Tirtha Road, Puri; tel. +91 (0)6752 223536.
Chilika Development Authority




Nandankanan Zoological Park

The star attraction of this large zoo, located about 15 miles (25 kilometers) north of Bhubaneshwar, is its rare white Bengal tigers. There's also an impressive variety of other animals, and the zoo, unlike many in India, which are often depressingly cramped and unkempt, is in a well-tended forested setting. Most travelers base themselves in Bhubaneshwar and visit the zoo from there.

How to Get There
From Bhubaneshwar, there are frequent daily buses to Nandankanan village, which is about 1,312 feet (400 meters) from the zoo. You can also hire a private taxi from Puri or join one of the rather hurried tours run by the Orissa Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC) in Puri (Marine Parade).

Attractions
Apart from its Bengal tigers (including some rare white ones), the 5.4-square-mile (14-square-kilometer) Nandankanan Zoological Park, established in 1960, also houses other dwindling species, such as rhinoceroses and Asiatic lions. It also has monkeys, tigers, Himalayan black bears, zebras, deer, around 60 species of birds, and a range of reptiles. There are short wildlife safaris operated by the park, which cost less than $1 per person.

General Tips
The prime time to visit the park is from October to June (to avoid the monsoon).

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Paryatan Bhawan, Museum Campus, Bhubaneshwar; tel. +91 (0)674 243 2177
.




Konarak

Konarak is famous for its UNESCO World Heritage-listed Sun Temple, which has been widely hailed as one of the planet's greatest pieces of religious architecture. The otherwise nondescript town of Konarak is situated around 22 miles (35 kilometers) north of Puri; most travelers tend to visit the temple on a day trip from Puri. Limited accommodations are available in Konarak for those who would like to spend more than just a day there.

How to Get There
There are daily hourly buses between Puri and Konarak (the one-way trip takes about one hour), but if you can't handle crowds, hire a private taxi instead. Autorickshaws are another option, but you should first negotiate a return fare that includes sufficient waiting time.

How to Get Around
You get around the temple area by foot. To travel longer distances get an autorickshaw.

Attractions
The superb Sun Temple was built in the 13th century and is considered to be the pinnacle of Orissan temple architecture. Resembling a massive chariot (being pulled by seven huge horses), the temple was designed to be a cosmic vehicle for the sun god, Surya. The temple walls are embellished with a riot of exquisite friezes and sculptures depicting Hindu deities, animals, flowers, mythical creatures, military scenes, and numerous erotic scenes.

If you'd like to have a look at some of the sculptures and carvings that were retrieved during excavations of the Sun Temple, visit the Archaeological Museum.

Places to Eat
Konarak does not have much of a restaurant scene, with most of the best places to eat found in the hotels.

The Geetanjali Restaurant is one of the town's few restaurants that's not attached to a hotel. Its biggest advantage is its location near the Sun Temple. The decor and food are modest, but still a lot better than the town's few other independent eateries. Located east of the Sun Temple.

The restaurant at the Yatri Niwas Hotel is very good. It serves reasonably priced Indian and continental fare.

Places to Stay
There are a restricted number of decent lodgings in Konarak, which explains why the majority of travelers choose to stay in nearby Puri.

One of the most desirable places to stay is at the Yatri Niwas Hotel, which has good-size, clean rooms. There's a well-maintained garden and reputable on-site restaurant. Located near the Archaeological Museum; tel. +91 (0)6758 236820.

With a relaxing garden area and cheerful ambience, the budget-priced Labanya Lodge is a popular choice among travelers. The rooms are plain but otherwise fine (the more you pay, the larger the room size). Meals aren't available here but the staff can arrange for food to be delivered from elsewhere. Sea Beach Road; tel. +91 (0)6758 236824.

General Tips
Avoid visiting the Sun Temple on public holidays (including Sunday), when the crush of crowds can be exasperating.

For More Information
Konarak Tourist Office Yatri Niwas Hotel; tel. +91 (0)6758 236821.
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