Southern India Trip Planner - Attractions, Places to Eat & Stay, Getting There & Around @ National Geographic Traveler

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Himalaya Sojourn

Jewels of the East

Ladakh: Little Tibet

Land of the Mahajaras

Serenity of the South

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Serenity of the South
Text by Sarina Singh Photo by Michael Melford


	In Pondicherry, a formerly French city, young girls in uniforms pedal to school.

With its vibrant array of customs, smorgasbord of diverse cuisines, and stunning landscapes—from tropical palm-fringed beaches to breezy high-altitude tea plantations—South India offers visitors a truly mind-bending repertoire of things to see and do. Unlike the North, this part of the subcontinent has long embraced an eclectic mix of religions, from Hindu and Jain temples to churches, mosques, and even the occasional synagogue.

Pondicherry

Chettinad

Udhagamandalam (Ooty)

Kerala: Backwaters and Ayurvedic Treatments

Chennai (Madras)

Auroville

Madurai

Munnar

Kochi (Cochin)

Mysore

Hampi

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum)

Kanniyakumari

Pondicherry

Pondicherry, affectionately dubbed Pondy by the locals, oozes a convivial mélange of India and France—where you can tuck into crepes or parathas for breakfast, bouillabaisse or masala dosa for lunch, and fish curry or coq au vin for dinner. A French colony until 1954, this captivating coast-hugging town—with its broad boulevards, a picturesque seaside promenade, renowned ashram, and beguiling blend of Indian and French architecture—has long been rated by travelers as a glowing highlight of their subcontinental sojourn.

How to Get There
Most travelers come to Pondicherry by bus; from Chennai there are several dozen daily buses with most departing from the Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus (the trip takes four hours). For more comfort opt for the slightly more expensive privately operated buses (most with offices opposite Chennai's Egmore train station). Alternatively, hire your own chauffeur-driven car, which is surprisingly affordable, especially if there are a few passengers to split the cost (expect to pay around $35 total); seek out a reputable car hire company by speaking to fellow travelers for recommendations or choosing a travel agency that belongs to an accredited association such as the Travel Agents Association of India.

How to Get Around
With its wide and relatively flat streets, Pondicherry is easily explored on foot or by bicycle (many bicycle rental shops can be found on MG Road and Mission Street). Mopeds and motorcycles can also be rented, provided you have an international drivers licence. The town's many cycle- and autorickshaws are also economical; ask locals about fares, as tourists can be ridiculously overcharged.

Attractions
The old colonial quarter is a must-see with its striking mansions and villas, a number of which now house stylish galleries, hotels and boutiques. Here, you'll also find the Cluny Embroidery Center where underprivileged women are taught the delicate art of hand embroidery.

The Pondicherry Museum has an extraordinary jumble of exhibits, from ancient Indian sculptures to fascinating French colonial items including a 19th-century pousse pousse (rickshaw-like contraption).

For spiritual sustenance, visit the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, established in 1926 by Sri Aurobindo and a French lady known as "The Mother." The ashram offers yoga courses for visitors. (For details write in advance to bureaucentral@sriaurobindoashram.org.)

Places to Eat
Eating out is one of the star attractions of a visit to Pondicherry, with menus sporting commendable French favorites in addition to the usual Indian fare, all at reasonable prices.

Rendezvous is one of Pondy's most atmospheric places to dine, with its earthy bamboo rooftop section as well as a quaintly furnished downstairs dining room that conjures images of something straight from the French countryside. The chefs replicate French recipes with aplomb and the menu also flaunts a selection of Indian and Chinese fare—all enjoyed with a glass of French or Indian wine. 30 Suffren Street.

Madam Santhé has pleasant rooftop dining and scores gold stars for its Mediterranean-inspired food. Devour delectable deep-sea delights such as stuffed seasoned crab and garlic squid, or choose from a selection of hearty pastas and salads. 10 Lal Bahadhur Street.

For authentic wood-fired pizzas and freshly baked bread, try Au Feu de Bois, where you can eat on the rooftop courtyard or indoors. 36 Lal Bahadhur Street.

Satsanga is just the spot for a nourishing breakfast of yogurt-topped muesli followed by crepes or omelets. Set in the grounds of an old colonial home, this laid-back eatery also whips up good French and Italian specialities for lunch and dinner. 30-32 Labourdonnais Street.

Places to Stay
Mid-range and top-end lodgings in Pondicherry are among South India's most character-filled, with a clutch of delightful colonial homes that have been converted into quaint guesthouses. The most appealing locale is east of the canal.

Villa Helena, a beautiful colonial house, has just a handful of rooms—part of its immense appeal—each well-kept and with a delightful character of its own. Guests can chill out in the villa's serene courtyard. 13 Bussy Street; tel. +91 (0)413 222 6789.

A good budget choice is the sea-facing Park Guest House; request one of the front rooms, which boast ocean views and private balconies. Goubert Avenue; tel. +91 (0)413 223 3644.

For more luxury, consider the Hotel de l'Orient, a renovated 200-year-old colonial property with rooms arranged around a courtyard. Some of the rooms are noticeably larger than others, but all are attractively furnished, many with four-poster beds. 17 Romain Roland Street; tel. +91 (0)413 234 3067; e-mail orient1804@neemranahotels.com.

General Tips
The place to check your emails and hook up with fellow travelers over espresso coffee and baguettes is at the hip 'n' happening Coffee.Com. This popular meeting place has high-speed Internet connections, house-blended coffees, assorted teas, and an appetizing menu (fabulous ice cream!). There's also a widescreen television and collection of DVDs (charges apply). 236 Mission Street.

For More Information
Pondicherry Tourist Office, e-mail tourism@pon.nic.in

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Chettinad

Some 75 villages make up the region of Tamil Nadu state known as Chettinad. This is the homeland of the Nattukottai Chettiars. They were a prosperous banking community who traveled widely to do business in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Nowadays, the region is largely rural and off the beaten track enough that the Indian government has developed programs to lure visitors to the region. Oddly incongruous with the rural nature of the area are the opulent former mansions and palaces, some of which now house museums or welcome overnight guests.

How to Get There
The main town in Chettinad is Karaikudi with bus and rail service from area cities, including Chennai. The nearest airport is in Madurai, 56 miles (90 kilometers) away.

Attractions
After arriving in the region, consider hiring a guide and driver to get you to various sites, which may be hard to find on your own. Among them are the Chettinad Museum, a former raja's mansion; Athangudi, where you can visit a factory where handmade terra-cotta tiles are produced; Devakottai, a village with numerous old mansions, and Kanadukathan, home to the Raja of Chettinad's palace, museum, and opulent railway waiting room.

Places to Stay
For a taste of the life of luxury led by South India's business tycoons, check out the Chettinadu Mansion (hotel) in Kanadukathan; for bookings, tel. +91 9846 344305.

For More Information
Explore Rural India

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Udhagamandalam (Ooty)

Description
Established in the early 19th century—when India was under British governance—Ooty (now officially called Udhagamandalam) served as the summer headquarters for Chennai-based English officials, offering cool respite from the sun-baked plains below. Today Ooty is one of India's most popular summer holiday destinations and although it lacks the serenity of its earlier days, there's still plenty of charm to be found in this scenic hilltop town.

How to Get There
Buses from various south Indian destinations travel daily to Ooty, but by far the most romantic way to get here is by the miniature (steam-engine) train from Mettupalayam; the 28.5-mile-trip (46 kilometers) takes about five hours. This train has awesome views of the countryside en route, including emerald-green tea plantations and waterfalls; for the best views, buy a first-class ticket (advance reservations recommended).

How to Get Around
Apart from walking, there are plenty of autorickshaws and taxis to whisk you around Ooty—many congregate around the bus station as well as at the upper end of Commercial Road. Bicycles can be cheaply rented from the bazaar.

Attractions
Worth a visit purely for its ambience and stunning book collection is the Nilgiri Library. Built in 1858, this historic building houses a staggering 40,000 books, including many rare titles. Decorating the library are pieces harking back to the British Raj, such as the portrait of Queen Victoria.

Apart from its magnificent wooden beams, which hail from the erstwhile palace of Tipu Sultan, the 19th-century St. Stephen's Church also has some noteworthy memorials in the adjoining cemetery, including the grave of Ooty's "founder," John Sullivan.

Inhale fresh air and admire the multitude of flora at the Botanical Gardens—there's even a fossilized tree trunk, said to be about 20 million years old. Rose aficionados will appreciate the Centenary Rose Park.

Places to Eat
Ooty has just a handful of notable restaurants; if you're strapped for cash, there are some simple vegetarian eateries on Main Bazaar and Commercial Road, where you can fill up for under $1.

The celebrated Shinkow's Chinese Restaurant cooks up good Chinese fare, from wok-tossed noodle dishes to a variety of hearty meat-based specialties. The prices are also appetizing, with main courses under $4. Commissioner's Road.

The Sidewalk Café does familiar fast-food favorites, from American-style burgers to Italian-inspired pizzas. For something lighter, try one of the soups and salads or simply slurp on a smoothie. Commercial Rd.

To fill your belly without emptying your money-belt, there's a terrific buffet lunch ($7) offered every Sunday at the Sullivan Court Hotel. Sullivan Court Hotel; Selbourne Road.

Places to Stay
Hotel tariffs shoot up during the high (summer) season (April to mid-June) so try to visit Ooty outside these times to not only get more value for your money, but also more peace and quiet.

Located in the Fernhill Palace grounds is Regency Villas, once a maharaja's hunting lodge. The rooms may not be particularly plush, but they're clean and comfortable, with an endearing old-world charm. Some of the floral-and-swirl-printed curtains and sofa coverings bring back memories of grandma's place. South Lake Road; tel. +91 (0)423 244 2555.

King's Cliff, poetically positioned up on Strawberry Hill, is a tastefully decorated colonial mansion filled with lovely antique furnishings and fine touches such as wood paneling. There are only nine rooms, all with fireplaces, each named after a Shakespearean character. The more expensive rooms have porches with sterling countryside views. Havelock Road; tel. +91 (0)423 245 2888.

The mid-range Willow Hotel offers spacious wooden-floored rooms, each with cheerful light-filled interiors; the most expensive room comes with its very own little garden. Positioned above town, the Willow makes the most of its superb position with large windows and ample outdoor space. 58/1 Havelock Road; tel. +91 (0)423 244 4037.

One of the nicest budget lodgings is the family-run Reflections Guest House which overlooks a lake (request a good lake-view room). The rooms are not fancy but offer good value and, with advance notice, wholesome homemade meals. All rooms have attached bathrooms with hot water in the mornings. North Lake Road; tel. +91 (0)423 244 3834.

General Tips
Don't leave Ooty without sampling its legendary homemade chocolate; the town's premiere chocolate-maker is Kings Corner, located just north of Charing Cross.

For More Information
Ooty Tourist Office Wenlock Road; tel. +91 (0)423 244 3977.
Ooty

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Kerala: Backwaters and Ayurvedic Treatments

Blessed with postcard-perfect beaches, verdant paddy fields, shady coconut groves and friendly folk, Kerala is the ideal place to slow the travel pace. You can paddle in the warm waters of the Arabian Sea, indulge in an Ayurvedic treatment, and savor scrumptious seafood while slowly gliding through the breathtakingly beautiful backwaters.

How to Get There
Kerala has a comprehensive domestic transport network, with interstate flights servicing the Keralan cities of Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), Kozhikode (Calicut), and Kochi (Cochin). There's a far more comprehensive train and bus network—for long trips, opt for trains over buses (where possible), to enjoy a smoother journey.

How to Get Around
Despite having three airports, no intrastate flights currently operate in Kerala (although this may change; inquire with your travel agent). Private and state buses travel to all corners of the state (private buses offer more comfort); trains connect fewer Keralan destinations. Within Kerala's cities and towns, you can get around by autorickshaw and taxi, as well as (crowded) local buses.

Attractions
Traveling through Kerala's magical backwaters—a snaking, 560-mile (900-kilometer) network of entrancing canals, lakes, rivers and lagoons—is an absolute must. Hiring a houseboat for a few days is highly recommended as it gives you the opportunity to explore the backwaters at a leisurely pace, watching daily life unfold on and around the water. Houseboats can accommodate couples or small groups and most come with an onboard chef.

Kerala's numerous Ayurvedic centers offer a range of ancient treatments intended to restore balance via either internal purification treatments (known as panchakarma) and/or specialized massage. Before committing to a treatment, discuss it with the Ayurvedic practitioner to ascertain if it's the right one for you. Find an Ayurvedic resort in Kerala on this website.

General Tips
There are numerous operators in Kerala offering backwater boat cruises. Before choosing an operator drop into the Kollam DTPC Information Center (tel. +91 [0]474 274 5625; e-mail contact@dtpckollam.com) to gauge how much you should be paying for boat trips and what that price should include.

For More Information
Kerala Tourism

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Chennai (Madras)

Once comprising a mere sprinkling of villages, Chennai (formerly Madras) is today the fourth-largest city in India and the international gateway for tours of south India. Few travelers spend more than a day or two here because of the chaos and crowds, but it's worth setting aside at least a few days if you want to get to know this gracious city beyond its cantankerous facade.

How to Get There
Apart from servicing international flights, Chennai also has a busy domestic air schedule linking it to major Indian cities. The enormous Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus, a few miles west of the center, is the hub for buses from a multitude of destinations. Chennai is also accessible by rail, with trains arriving and departing from Delhi, Calcutta, Bangalore, Hyderabad, and Mumbai (just to name a few cities). Most southbound trains leave from the Egmore train station, while most of those heading west or to other states depart from the Central Station.

How to Get Around
Autorickshaws are the best mode of getting around Chennai as they can weave through the traffic more quickly than taxis. Chennai has a city train service that is usually more efficient and less crowded than its local bus service.

Attractions
Wander around old-style George Town, with its remnants of a 17th-century fort, the St. Mary's Church, and the imposing Indo-Saracenic High Court.

Housing a superb collection of items, from temple art to bronze sculpture, is the Government Museum. Nearby is the National Art Gallery, which has a fascinating display of Indian regional pieces, some spanning back to the tenth century.

Places to Eat
Apart from its excellent South Indian restaurants (mainly vegetarian), Chennai has a range of multicuisine places to eat. For fine dining, try an upmarket hotel restaurant.

Saravana Bhavan is wholeheartedly recommended for its classic vegetarian South Indian fare, with delicious dosas, warming rasam, spongy idlis and other southern goodies. 133-134 Peters Road and other locations in Chennai.

A perennial favorite with locals and travelers is the modest Bhoopathy Café, which serves cheap, tasty vegetarian dishes, most costing no more than $1.33. Gandhi Irwin Road.

For Western-style fare—burgers, steaks, sandwiches and the like—charge into the Gallopin' Gooseberry. With its American diner theme, this is a good place to come if you need a break from Indian food. They also make revitalizing shakes and freshly squeezed juices. 11 Greams Road.

Places to Stay
Chennai has a shortage of decent mid-range accommodation options, though there are plenty of budget and top-end offerings. It's advisable to make advance reservations during the busy December to mid-February period.

One of the most popular budget choices is Broadlands Lodge, which has rooms with or without bathrooms (the shared bathrooms could do with a facelift). This place has a faded colonial charm, with rooms arranged around a courtyard. The most desirable of these are in the back portion, on the top level. 18 Vallabha Agraharam Street, Triplicane; tel. +91 (0)44 2854 5573; e-mail broadlandshotel@yahoo.com.

The modern Hotel Orchid Inn is one of Chennai's best mid-range establishments, with reasonably spacious rooms, all with satellite television. 19 Woods Road, Triplicane; tel. +91 (0)44 2852 2555.

Those seeking creature comforts should like the opulent Hotel Park Sheraton & Towers, which has immaculate rooms that have all the trimmings you'd expect of a five-star hotel. There's a host of amenities including a good health club and well-equipped business center. 132 TTK Road, Alwarpet; tel. +91 (0)44 2499 4101.

General Tips
To find out what's happening in the city at the time of your visit, get a copy (free) of the fortnightly CityInfo which lists the hottest night spots, restaurants and much more; copies are available at tourist offices and some hotels.

For More Information
India Tourism 154 Anna Salai; tel. +91 (0)44 2846 0285.
ChennaiBest.com

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Auroville

Created in 1968 to champion "human unity," Auroville is a community of Indians and foreigners striving to live in spiritual and ecological harmony—regardless of nationality, religion, and political persuasion. The matrimandir—a huge golf-ball-shaped structure—is the 'soul of Auroville,' housing a marble-lined meditation center which contains a unique, two-foot-diameter (70-centimeter) solid crystal.

How To Get There
Most visitors to Auroville come from Pondicherry seven miles (11 kilometers) away. There you can catch a bus, taxi, or autorickshaw. Renting a motorcycle or bicycle in Pondy instead will provide you transportation around Auroville once you get there.

How To Get Around
You can get around Auroville—which has restricted areas for visitors—by foot. Those who have a motorcycle or bicycle will find it much easier to move around.

Attractions
Casual visitors to Auroville are only permitted into the visitors center between 9 a.m. and 5:30 p.m., which is where you can view a series of photos that show community activities and watch a video about the site (shown several times daily; call ahead for screening times at tel. +91 [0]413 262 2239).

The Matri Mandir's inner chamber is only open to casual visitors between 2:30 and 5:30 p.m. on Sunday; however, you need to obtain a pass (no charge) in advance (for more details, contact the visitors center at tel. +91 [0]413 262 2239).

Places to Eat
Auroville does not really have a restaurant scene, but rather a gamut of fairly basic eateries offering standard Indian fare.

Most travelers eat at the Solar Kitchen, run by the Auroville community. The Solar Kitchen has a satiating buffet with either Indian or continental dishes, depending on the day of the week.

Places to Stay
Most casual visitors to Auroville stay in Pondicherry; however, if you have a genuine interest in learning about the community's goals, you can stay (for a fee) at one of their guesthouses (a stay of at least a week is preferred and guests are encouraged to lend a hand in the running of the community). For further details, contact the visitors center (tel. +91 [0]413 262 2239) or e-mail the Auroville Guest Service in advance at avguests@auroville.org.in.

For More Information
Auroville

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Madurai

One of South India's most historic pilgrimage cities, bustling Madurai is renowned for the magnificent Meenakshi Temple, which can attract up to 15,000 visitors on one day alone. The temple complex has sections dating back as far as 2,000 years and is one of the country's most dramatic displays of Dravidian architecture.

How to Get There
Madurai has flights from Chennai and Mumbai, and is also accessible via bus and train (from Chennai, there are several daily trains to Madurai and a staggering 40 daily buses). The long-distance bus hub is Madurai's Central Bus Station, located a few miles northeast of the old city precinct.

How to Get Around
Autorickshaws, taxis, and city buses are plentiful, but it's relatively easy to explore central Madurai by foot.

Attractions
Most travellers visit Madurai solely to see the exceptional Meenakshi Temple complex, which, apart from its architectural splendor, is an auspicious Hindu pilgrimage site. The temple's gopurams (soaring gateway towers) display intricately carved, often curious, depictions of Hindu deities, animals and celestial figures.

The Gandhi Memorial Museum, located in a former palace, has an admirable exhibition chronicling India's independence movement (spanning 1757 to 1947). An item of clothing (replete with blood stains), said to have been worn at the time Mahatma Gandhi was assassinated, is on display here.

Places to Eat
To admire the temple while you dine, opt for one of the rooftop restaurants located on West Perumal Maistry Street.

The Surya Restaurant is on the rooftop of a hotel and has sweeping views over Madurai. The menu offers a range of multicuisine vegetarian dishes. Hotel Supreme, 110 West Perumal Maistry Street.

Living up to its name, the Temple View restaurant whips up flavorful vegetarian and non-vegetarian Indian, continental, and Chinese fare; its Indian food is the pick of the bunch. Hotel Park Plaza, 114 West Perumal Maistry Street.

The multicuisine Mahal cooks up an appetizing assortment of North Indian and continental food at very reasonable rates; a travelers' favorite is the prawns masala. 21 Town Hall Road.

Places to Stay
Budget offerings in Madurai are uncomfortable, so it's preferable to settle on middle- or upper-end accommodations.

The colonial-themed Taj Garden Retreat is Madurai's premium place to lay your head—if you don't mind staying a few miles out of the heart of the city. The property is set in well-manicured gardens and has a range of luxuriously appointed rooms, all in soothing, earthy tones. Facilities include a swimming pool and beauty parlor. 40 TPK Road; tel. +91 (0)452 237 1601; e-mail retreat.madurai@tajhotels.com.

The large, well-kept Hotel Supreme is one of the best mid-range options, with pleasant rooms that enjoy more natural light than most other hotels. Many of the more expensive rooms come with private balconies and views over the temple. Go up to the rooftop restaurant for some of the best views. 110 West Perumal Maistry Street; tel. +91 (0)452 234 3151.

One of the town's better mid-range possibilities, the Hotel Chentoor, has comfortable, if slightly boxed-in rooms—consider paying a bit more for one of their larger rooms. 106 West Perumal Maistry Street; tel. +91 (0)452 235 0490; e-mail chentoor01@sancharnet.in.

For More Information
Madurai Tourist Office 180 West Veli Street; tel +91 (0)452-2334757.

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Munnar

Flanked by lofty mountains, green ridges and plunging valleys, Munnar is famed not only for its natural beauty, but also for having some of the planet's highest tea plantations. This scenic hilltop town—which during colonial times was a favored summer retreat for the British—is a glorious spot to simply fill your lungs with crisp mountain air while taking a leisurely stroll through the misty countryside.

How to Get There
Munnar can be reached by bus or private taxi. Munnar's main bus terminal (the KSRTC station on AM Road) is south of the town center, but most buses stop at the more centrally located Bazaar bus stand.

How to Get Around
The best way to get around is by autorickshaw. Alternatively, rent a bicycle—inquire about the closest rental place at your hotel, or simply ask around in the bazaar.

Attractions
Munnar has some lovely walks in the surrounding hills—if time permits, opt for a trek lasting a few days. For information about treks and day walks, visit the DTPC Tourist Information Office (Alwaye-Munnar Road; tel. +91 [0]4865 231516).

Although slightly contrived, the Tata Tea Museum offers visitors the chance to observe the tea-making process and sample this beloved beverage.

Places to Eat
Munnar has just a sprinkling of good restaurants—if you're staying at one of the town's mid-range or top-end hotels make the most of their in-house dining options.

Hotel Saravana Bhavan is nothing flashy in terms of its decor, but it whips up scrumptious (and cheap) South Indian vegetarian meals, from masala dosas to uttapams and traditional southern curries, many served on a banana leaf. MG Road.

Popular with locals, especially for lunch, the lively Rapsy has ridiculously cheap Indian food and has earned itself quite a reputation for its yummy Indian breads—flipped fresh from the tawa (hot plate) and fragrant biryani. Main Bazaar.

Places to Stay
Apart from 'regular' hotels, Munnar gives travelers the golden opportunity to stay with an Indian family thanks to its 'homestay' program—for details contact the DTPC Tourist Information Office (Alwaye-Munnar Road; tel. +91 [0]4865 231516).

Usually requiring an advance booking from one of its (or an affiliated club's) members, the century-old classic wicker-and-old-teak style High Range Club prides itself on upholding old-world traditions: there's a men's-only bar and strict dress code (on certain nights men are expected to wear a suit and tie). With its colonial-era furnishings and posh ambience, this is indeed an atmospheric place to stay. Tel. +91 (0)4865 230253.

Windermere Estate, set on a sprawling cardamom plantation south of the center, offers cozy, comfortable rooms—all with restful color schemes—in a variety of styles, from the charming farmhouse rooms, which have a relaxing communal balcony, to the more upmarket and spacious cottages (each with a king-size bed), which enjoy sweeping views. Pothamedu; tel. +91 (0)4865 230512.

Offering somewhat simple, but adequately comfortable, home-style accommodations in a cardamom estate south of the town's busy center, Olive Brook is one of Munnar's more character-filled mid-range options. Cookery classes can be arranged as well as walks through the plantation. Pothamedu; tel. +91 (0)4865 230588.

For More Information
DTPC Tourist Information Office Alwaye-Munnar Road; tel +91 (0)4865 231516.
Munnar.com

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Kochi (Cochin)

Spread over a series of islands and slender peninsulas is the culturally and historically rich port city of Kochi (also called Cochin). With its intriguing jumble of historic Portuguese houses, Hindu temples, mosques, churches, and even a 16th-century synagogue, Kochi is a shining example of the diversity that is India.

How to Get There
Domestic air carriers connect Kochi to major cities including Mumbai, Delhi, and Chennai. The city also has good rail and bus connections: The main bus terminus is the KSRTC bus stand in Ernakulam; there are two train stations, Ernakulam Town and to its south, Ernakulam Junction.

How to Get Around
Ferries shuttle people between the various islands; buy your ticket once on board. On land, autorickshaws and taxis are available, in addition to local buses.

Attractions
Found on Kochi's southern peninsula is the historic area known as Fort Cochin. At Fort Cochin's tip are the much-photographed Chinese fishing nets, first established here by traders hailing from the court of Kublai Khan. Also found in Fort Cochin is what is believed to be one of India's oldest European-built places of worship—the St. Francis Church. The famous Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama (who died in Kochi in 1524) was laid to rest here for over a decade before being taken back to Portugal.

The Mattancherry Palace was constructed by the Portuguese in the mid-16th century and houses some noteworthy murals that portray scenes from ancient Indian epics such as the Ramayana.

Places to Eat
Kochi gets special mention for its varied menus which range from ubiquitous North Indian fare to less commonly found southern specialties. There are plenty of eateries to choose from—those below represent just a few of the best.

With live bands during the peak tourist season (around December to February) and a casual open-air eating area, the Old Courtyard is a deservedly popular place. It dishes up lip-smacking seafood dishes, from baked mussels to grilled fish and prawns. Non-seafood dishes are also available. Princess Street, Fort Cochin.

The History Café gets praise for its creative menu, with dishes representing Kochi's culturally diverse past—there's an inventive array of Arabic, Syrian and Portuguese-inspired dishes. The restaurant is located at the Brunton Boatyard, where diners are treated to pretty sea views. River Road, Fort Cochin.

Fry's Village Restaurant offers traditional Keralan cuisine. The seafood dishes range from authentic Keralan fish curries to an assortment of lightly spiced grilled shell creatures. Chittoor Road, Ernakulam.

Places to Stay
There's something to suit all budgets in Kochi, with Fort Cochin having the most atmospheric places to stay—rooms can fill up quickly from November to mid-February (especially December and January), so book ahead.

Highly recommended is the Malabar House, a highly regarded boutique hotel. Beautifully furnished, this stylish hotel has 17 rooms, all contemporary in style but with a dash of colonial charm. If you can afford it, skip the smallish standard rooms and get one of the sumptuously appointed suites. Facilities include a swimming pool and two restaurants. Parade Ground Road, Fort Cochin; tel. +91 (0)484 221 6666; e-mail reservations@malabarhouse.com

The family-run Chiramel Residency was built during Dutch rule and was later converted into a mansion by the British. There's a miscellany of interior styles throughout the property including Chinese porcelain mosaic flooring at the entrance. The mosquito-proof rooms are spacious, clean and decked out with teak wood ceilings and floors. Lilly Street, Fort Cochin; tel. +91 (0)484 221 7310.

Ann's Residency is a popular mid-range choice with just 11 rooms—all decorated a bit differently—set in a charming colonial-style building. This down-to-earth place has well-kept rooms with a homey feel to them. Post Office Road, Fort Cochin; tel. +91 (0)484 221 8024.

General Tips
Kochi has several venues where you can see kathakali (a traditional Keralan drama-dance form) performances, including the See India Foundation (Kalathiparambil Lane, Ernakulam; tel. +91 [0]484 237 6471) and the Kerala Kathakali Center (River Road, Fort Cochin; tel. +91 [0]484 221 5827).

For More Information
Government of India Tourist Office Willingdon Island; tel. +91 (0)484 266 8352; e-mail indtourismkochi@sify.com.
Tourist Desk Information Counter Main Ferry Jetty, Ernakulam; tel. +91 (0)484 237 1761.

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Mysore

Prior to India's independence from British rule, the princely state of Mysore was one of the subcontinent's largest and most prosperous kingdoms. Legacies of its royal past can still be seen today, most notably the colossal City Palace complex, which is the city's major tourist draw. Mysore is also famous for its production of sandalwood, incense, and silk.

How to Get There
Mysore can be reached by train or bus. The Central Bus Stand on the Bangalore-Mysore Road is the hub for all long-distance buses.

How to Get Around
Taxis and autorickshaws are the most convenient and economical way to whiz around the city. Note that while most autorickshaws use their meters, far fewer taxis do, so make sure you negotiate a fare first.

Attractions
Construction of the very grand City Palace was completed in 1912 for the then-huge sum of over four million rupees. This Indo-Saracenic palace certainly has a swanky interior, with awesome carved wooden doors and rainbow-hued stained windows. On special occasions, such as the festival of Dussehra (September/October), the palace is lit up at night with an estimated 100,000 lightbulbs.

Overlooking the city is Chamundi Hill, which is where you'll find the Sri Chamundeshwari Temple as well as a 16-foot-high (five-meter) rock carving of Nandi, the mythical bull that served as Lord Shiva's steed.

Places to Eat
Mysore has a reasonably good restaurant scene, but most of the best places to eat are found in the better hotels.

If you wish to dine in regal surroundings (without spending a king's ransom), there's the soft-blue, Wedgewood-designed restaurant at the Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel (see Places to Stay, below). The menu offers a bit of everything—continental, Chinese, and Indian (northern and southern). Lalitha Mahal City Palace, several miles east of the city center.

For tasty thalis (all-you-can-eat meals), served on real banana leaves, drop into the Hotel RRR. Apart from being delicious, the meals served here are also a super value. You can choose from a selection of vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. Hotel RRR, Gandhi Square.

The Parklane Hotel has an attractive garden courtyard that's especially romantic at night when it's lit up with twinkling candles. The menu sports Indian, Chinese, and continental dishes, which diners can eat while listening to live music. Parklane Hotel, Sri Harsha Road.

Places to Stay
The city has lodgings to suit all pockets, but be aware that they can get booked out during the Dussehra festival (September/October)—book ahead if you plan visiting at this time. Some hotels raise their tariffs during Dussehra.

For budget travelers, a good bet is the Hotel Dasaprakash, which has pleasing rooms (some even come with antique furniture) and affable service. Amenities include a restaurant, ice-cream shop and travel agency. Gandhi Square; tel. +91 (0)821 244 2444; e-mail hoteldasaprakash@sancharnet.in.

The Ritz Hotel has just four rooms (half its charm), all lovingly decorated, which open onto a communal sitting and dining area. Guests can enjoy an evening drink at the little bar. Bangalore-Mysore Road; tel. +91 (0)821 242 2668.

The fanciest place to stay in Mysore is the Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel, which was once exclusively reserved for the maharaja of Mysore's personal guests. Situated on a small hill and set in well-manicured gardens, this domed white palace has a range of room categories—all of the 54 rooms are suitably aristocratic, but the palace-wing suites are truly regal. Several miles east of the city center; tel. +91 (0)821 247 0476.

General Tips
To buy pure sandalwood oil head straight for the government-operated Sandalwood Oil Factory at Ashokapuram (off Mananthody Road).

For More Information
Karnataka Tourism Old Exhibition Building, Irwin Road; tel. +91 (0)821 242 2096.
Karnataka.com

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Hampi

The erstwhile capital of one of India's biggest Hindu empires (known as Vijayanagar), the ghost city of Hampi (near present-day Hampi village) has been deserted since the 16th century. The mind-boggling boulder-strewn landscape in the former flourishing empire is today a travelers' magnet, with much of its appeal lying purely in its forlorn, abandoned atmosphere.

How to Get There
Most travelers come to Hampi from either Goa or Bangalore. Some buses from Goa and Bangalore drop passengers right at Hampi Bazaar (site of many budget hotels and the tourist office), so be sure you get one of these or else you may find yourself unexpectedly dropped off at Hospet (30 minutes away from Hampi).

How to Get Around
Bicycles (combined with walking) are a fantastic way of exploring the ruins and can be rented at several outlets in Hampi Bazaar. Mopeds are also available on a rental basis. Autorickshaws and taxis operate in Hampi.

Attractions
The 16th-century Vitthala Temple is the star attraction of the Hampi ruins. World Heritage-listed, the temple's amazing works of sculpture reflect Vijayanagaran art at its very best.

Step back in time at the Archaeological Museum, which has well-presented local relics including interesting old weapons and sculptures.

Places to Eat
Being a small place, Hampi has a very limited number of restaurants; most only offer vegetarian fare.

The riverside Geeta River View Restaurant does a good job of Indian cuisine, including a most innovative cashew-nut curry. The peaceful outdoor setting is a treat. Located east of the bazaar, on the small road heading to the Vitthala temple.

For rooftop dining with a view, there's the family-geared restaurant at Vicky's (a guesthouse), which has a range of high-quality Indian and continental dishes to choose from. Vicky's, Hampi Bazaar.

The laid-back Mango Tree does arguably the best thalis (all-you-can-eat meals) in town, and they're a veritable bargain at under $1. Located 1,312 feet (400 meters) west of Hampi Bazaar.

Places to Stay
Hampi has basic accommodation options, geared primarily to backpackers—for more comfort consider staying at Hospet (30 minutes away). Note that room rates in Hampi can increase by half (sometimes even higher) in the New Year period.

Set in calm grounds, the KSTDC Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari is Hampi's most modern place to stay, although not fancy. The rooms are adequately clean and comfortable (if somewhat lackluster) and equipped with solar-heated showers. On site is a massage center and restaurant. Kamalapuram; tel. +91 (0)8394 241574.

Cheap and cheerful, the Rama Guest House has only four rooms, all impeccably maintained. Satiating meals are available in the dining room. Hampi Bazaar; tel. +91 (0)839 424 1962.

North of the river, in the rather isolated area known as Virupapur Gaddi, is the Sri Lakshmi Golden Beach Resort, which prides itself on being the only hotel in Hampi to have a swimming pool. The rooms are in reasonably sound condition, if a little bland. It's worth paying more for one of the circular cottages (each with a circular bed). Virupapur Gaddi.

General Tips
Recently there have been increasing reports of muggings in Hampi after dark, so leave the area before sunset.

For More Information
Hampi Tourist Office Hampi Bazaar; tel. +91 (0)8394 241339.
Karnataka.com

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Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum)

Not nearly as tumultuous as most other Indian capital cities, Thiruvananthapuram (also called Trivandrum) has an endearing personality, with traces of its past still abounding—from the old-style red-tiled roofs to the picturesque winding lanes. This upbeat coastal city also has a number of notable temples.

How To Get There
You can fly to Thiruvananthapuram from a number of Indian cities including Mumbai, Bangalore, Chennai, and Delhi—to get to the city center from the airport, catch a pre-paid taxi (to avoid being over-charged). The city is well-connected by both bus and train; be aware that train seats are in demand so it pays to book in advance. Most buses congregate at the KSRTC Bus Stand, opposite the train station.

How To Get Around
There are plenty of autorickshaws and taxis—if the meter is not working (often the case, especially after dark) ensure you agree on a fare before zooming away.

Attractions
The Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple is more than 260 years old, and although it's officially open only to Hindus, others can still peer at some of the 365 stunning carved pillars through the gate.

Housed in a two-century-old palace, the Puthe Maliga Palace Museum—known for its exquisite Keralan architecture—has a mishmash of exhibits, many revolving around the old spice trade that once flourished between India, China, and Europe.

Places to Eat
The city has some pleasing places to eat, most, not surprisingly, with a focus on traditional Keralan recipes.

For something a bit different, don't miss the Kadalivanam Family Restaurant, which bases its healthy dishes on traditional naturopathic recipes. Meals kick off with several small glasses of vitamin-packed juice, then progress to nutritious salads and vegetarian dishes—all presented on fresh banana leaves. MG Road.

The Indian Coffee House (Marveli Café) warrants a visit solely for its fantastical design, with diners seated at tables lining a spiraling tower. There's predominantly continental and Indian food, such as sizzlers, sandwiches, and a host of curries. Central Station Road.

Places to Stay
If you want to stay in the center, but are a light sleeper, it's worth noting that the hotels on Manjalikulam Road absorb exceedingly less noise than those along busy nearby MG Road.

A fabulous mid-priced choice is the semi-opulent Wild Palms Home Stay, a family-run mansion that has well-appointed spacious rooms (six in total) which are furnished in a homey, inviting manner. Mathrubhumi Road; tel. +91 (0)471 247 1175; e-mail wildpalm@md3.vsnl.net.in.

The wallet-friendly Hotel Ganesh is close to the action of town but catches far less noise than the lodgings found on nearby MG Road. The rooms at this unpretentious place are ordinary but reasonably large and well-kept. Ambujavilasam Road; tel. +91 (0)471 246 1070.

The refurbished three-star KTDC Hotel Mascot has a central location and very comfortable, contemporary rooms (which are a lot larger than most hotels). There's also a good-sized swimming pool, health club and multi-cuisine restaurant. Mascot Square, Museum Road; tel. +91 (0)471 2318990; e-mail hotelmascot@vsnl.net.

General Tips
To delve into all things spiritual, visit the Bharath Book Emporium (MG Road), which has shelves packed with books covering all sorts of other-worldly topics, from astrology to organized religions.

For More Information
Tourist Facilitation Center Museum Road; tel. +91 (0)471 232 1132.
Kerala Tourism

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Kanniyakumari

Kanniyakumari (formerly called Cape Comorin) lies at the point where the Bay of Bengal converges with the Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea—this is the town's primary tourist attraction. This southernmost Indian town, dedicated to an incarnation of the goddess Parvati, is also an important pilgrimage site for devout Hindus.

How to Get There
Kanniyakumari can be reached by bus or train, although there are fewer train services. A seat on a private bus can be booked at one of the many travel agencies in town.

How to Get Around
Autorickshaws and taxis are readily available and are the best mode of transport.

Attractions
Most tourists come here simply to watch the sunset over the ocean; on certain days you can even see the sun set and the moon rise at the same time.

Catch a ferry to a nearby island to see the Vivekananda Memorial. This memorial is dedicated to the revered holy figure, Swami Vivekananda, who meditated at this spot in the late 19th century. From the island, there are good views over the harbor.

Places to Eat
Apart from the simple (cheap) Indian fast-food eateries in the bazaar, there are just a few decent restaurants in Kanniyakumari, with hotels having the best options.

The Archana Restaurant is one of the town's most appealing places to eat, particularly in the evening when you can sit out in the garden. The menu has Indian, Chinese, and continental offerings, with some especially tasty tandoori dishes. Hotel Maadhini, East Car Street.

For south Indian food, including divine dosas, try the Hotel Saravana. Sannathi Street.

Places to Stay
Room rates in Kanniyakumari can fluctuate throughout the year, peaking during the busy months of November to mid-January.

The Manickhan Tourist Home has recently revamped its rooms, making it a judicious mid-range choice. Ask for a room with a balcony and good view. North Car Street; tel. +91 (0)4652 246387.

The town's top hotel is the Hotel Seaview, which has tidy, comfortable rooms with sterling views over the water. There's an admirable multicuisine restaurant on site which gets special mention for its delicious seafood preparations. East Car Street; tel. +91 (0)4652 247841.

For More Information
Tourist Office Beach Road; +91 (0)4652 246276.

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