Western India Trip Planner - Attractions, Places to Eat & Stay, Getting There & Around @ National Geographic Traveler

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Wonders of the West
Text by Sarina Singh Photo by Palani Mohan


	The massive Kailasa Temple is a showstopper at Ellora Caves.

Between them, the western Indian states of Maharashtra and Goa offer an evocative blend of palm-fringed beaches, architectural masterpieces (including the World Heritage sites of Ajanta and Ellora), world-class cuisines, sacred sites (Hindu temples to Catholic churches) and, in recent times, a budding wine industry. Mumbai, widely lauded as India's most cosmopolitan city, is a major international gateway and popular jumping-off point to neighboring Goa, where sand and sea reign supreme.

Mumbai (Bombay)

Ajanta

Ellora

Nashik

Goa

Mumbai (Bombay)

Welcome to India's adrenaline-pumping commercial capital, home to the world's biggest film-producing center, Bollywood. A spectacular melting pot of pan-Indian cultures, customs, and cuisines, Mumbai is in a league of its own. With a population of 16.5 million—and growing—it is also the country's most congested metropolis, with some of Asia's biggest slums. Despite its shortcomings, however, this tenacious, enigmatic city continues to draw thousands from all over India, who flock here to make a better life for themselves and their families in what has affectionately been dubbed the "City of Dreams."

How to Get There
Mumbai is a major center for international flights. It also is a hub for domestic flights, linking it to about 35 Indian cities, and for bus and train lines. Opt for a train where possible, especially for long trips; the trains are far more comfortable than the buses. If you want to travel by bus, note that private bus operators offer more comfort than the state-run buses.

Mumbai has two major train services: Central Railways caters primarily to eastern and southern destinations and generally operates from the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus; Western Railways mainly services northern destinations, from the Mumbai Central terminus.

How to Get Around
Mumbai has plenty of taxis, which are a great way to zip around the city; note that between midnight and 5 a.m. there is an additional 25 percent "night" fee. Another option: autorickshaws, three-wheeled motorized vehicles, but these are restricted to the region north of Mahim Creek. Mumbai has an inexpensive suburban train service, but it can get crowded, especially during the morning and afternoon rush hours (avoid traveling during these times). There is also a city bus service—comprised of single and double-decker vehicles—that offers a cheap way to cover short distances; for details, routes, and fares, click on "Route Network."

Attractions
Overlooking Mumbai's harbor, the iconic Gateway of India was built by the British to commemorate England's King George V and Queen Mary's 1911 visit to India. Ironically, it's also the place where many of the British departed India when the country won its independence. Nowadays, the open area around this grand arch has something of a carnival ambience, attracting Indian families and tourists to watch snake-charmers and street performers. Also here: plenty of food vendors.

The exclusive residential area of Malabar Hill is located on a breezy, sea-fronting peninsula. Here you'll find the Banganga temple, a four-century-old complex that is especially known for its small reservoir of holy water. Also on Malabar Hill: a colorful Jain temple, built in 1904, that is dedicated to Adinath, the first of Jainism's 24 teachers. Jainism features elements of both Hinduism and Buddhism.

The action- and aroma-packed Crawford Market sells fruits, vegetables, meats, live animals, flowers, and spices. Housed in a huge colonial Gothic-style building, the market is also a tourist stop for the frieze at the entrance's exterior, designed by Rudyard Kipling's father, Lockwood Kipling.

Still a fully functional train station, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly called the Victoria Terminus), is a magnificent Gothic example of Mumbai's colonial past. Built in the late 19th century, this ornate, cathedral-like station—now a World Heritage site—features fanciful carvings of gargoyles and animals as well as imposing domes, buttresses, and stained-glass windows.

Many visitors to Mumbai make for the jaw-dropping spectacle of thousands of dhobis (washer-people) plying their trade at the Dhobi Ghats of Mahalaxmi. The dhobis work at open-air concrete troughs, where they vigorously wash many Mumbaikers' clothing and linens, then hang them to dry.

At sunset, join the locals at Chowpatty Beach, a popular Mumbai meeting place (though it's too dirty for swimming). This is where starry-eyed couples, gossiping friends, and giggling families come to stroll, chat, and munch on bhelpuri (a popular savory snack) as the sun sinks into the sea.

Places to Eat
Mumbai has an absolutely brilliant array of places to eat, ranging from ultra-cheap street stalls to swanky five-star restaurants. You'll find a wide range of menus that include all sorts of regional Indian specialties as well as Chinese, Mexican, French, and Italian offerings.

Sink your teeth into divinely succulent tandoori food (cooked in a clay oven) as well as scrumptious Mughlai cuisine (North Indian food influenced by the Mughals) at the moderately-priced Delhi Darbar. Colaba Causeway, Colaba.

For first-rate international/fusion cuisine, make a beeline for award-winning Indigo. The food is world-class, the decor elegant, and the clientele hip and stylish. Reservations are a must. 4 Mandlik Marg, Colaba; tel. +91 (0)22 5636 8999.

If you can't make it to Goa, Goa Portuguesa gives you the chance to at least try Goan cuisine, from classic fish curries to spicy chicken xacuti. Kataria Road, Mahim.

Although Bade Miya is a mere street stall (with a few roadside tables and chairs), it has carved a name for itself as one of Mumbai's finest kebab joints. You won't be disappointed. Tulloch Road, Colaba.

Places to Stay
Mumbai is no bargain when it comes to accommodation, with hotels in every price bracket costing at least double (often more) than those in other major Indian cities. Many of the better places—especially budget and mid-range—are in the southern suburb of Colaba.

Built in 1903, the legendary Taj Mahal Palace & Tower is one of Mumbai's most sumptuous and historic places to stay. Boasting sterling views over the ocean and the Gateway of India, the hotel's 565 rooms are pure opulence, many with original works of art. The more expensive suites, which include a personal butler, represent the height of luxury. The hotel has a collection of fine restaurants (including the Golden Dragon, voted the best Chinese restaurant in Mumbai), shops, a health club, swimming pool, and a hip nightclub. Apollo Bunder, Colaba; tel. +91 (0)22 6665 3366; e-mail tmhresv.bom@tajhotels.com.

For those counting their rupees, a popular budget choice is Bentley's Hotel, comprised of several buildings; the best are on Oliver Road. A range of differently priced (but well-kept) rooms offer something for everyone, with the more expensive ones having more space, nicer furnishings, and private balconies. Bentley's can fill up fast, so book ahead. 17 Oliver Road, Colaba; tel. +91 (0)22 2284 1474.

The mid-range Gordon House Hotel is a charming boutique-style lodging, its pleasant rooms furnished in a mélange of European-flavored themes: Scandinavian, Country Cottage, Mediterranean (see its website for pictures of each). Some rooms can be noisy, so if you're a light sleeper request a quiet one. 5 Battery Street, Colaba; tel. +91 (0)22 2287 1122.

If you wish to stay reasonably close to the airport, consider the 110-room Hotel Sea Princess, which has views over Juhu Beach; airport transfers are included in the tariff. The rooms are in tip-top condition and on-site amenities include a beauty parlor, health club, and swimming pool. This hotel is considerably cheaper than most other top-end hotels in the airport locale. Juhu Tara Road, Juhu; tel. +91 (0)22 2661 1111; e-mail seaprincess@vsnl.com.

General Tips for Mumbai
If you intend to spend considerable time in Mumbai and want to familiarize yourself with the city, get a copy of the Eicher City Map Mumbai ($5.50), an excellent, comprehensive street atlas that is updated regularly. Regardless of how long you're staying, it's worth buying the information-filled Time Out Mumbai (under $1), which details current city happenings (cultural events, exhibitions, etc). Both of these publications can be found at bookshops and newsstands.

For More Information
Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation Madame Cama Road, Nariman Point; tel. +91 (0)22 2202 6713.
Government of India Tourist Office 123 Maharshi Karve Road; tel. +91 (0)22 2203 3144.

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Ajanta

The Ajanta Caves date to 200 B.C. and feature stunning rock-cut architecture and Buddhist murals. The 30 caves—today a World Heritage site—were deserted for more than a thousand years, until a British shikhar (hunting) group rediscovered them in 1819. Today Ajanta is one of India's prime tourist attractions, with thousands of people flocking here each year to admire the scale of the caves and their fine craftsmanship.

How to Get There
You can reach the caves by catching a series of buses from the towns of Aurangabad or Jalgaon. These buses drop passengers off around 2.5 miles (four kilometers) from the caves, where there are frequent shuttle buses to and from the caves. Alternatively, hire a private taxi, which can be surprisingly affordable if there are a few of you to split the cost.

How to Get Around
You explore the caves by foot.

Attractions
The 30 caves of Ajanta have been ingeniously and dramatically cut into a horseshoe-shaped cliff. The oldest caves cluster around the middle of the gorge. All the caves have been decorated with remarkable Buddhist paintings, notable for the way they were done: the paints were mixed with vegetable gum and animal glue to make them adhesive. The murals depict various Buddhist scenes. Some of the caves—several of which contain large stupas (Buddhist shrines)—are believed to have served as meditation chambers for Buddhist monks.

Places to Stay & Eat
There are few hotels in Ajanta; most visitors to Ajanta stay in Jalgaon, 37 miles (60 kilometers) away, or in Aurangabad, 65 miles (105 kilometers) away.

If you plan to stay at Ajanta, your best bet is the MTDC Holiday Resort, which has clean and comfortable—if a tad dull—rooms at reasonable rates. Meals are available. Advance bookings are recommended. Aurangabad-Jalgaon Road; tel. +91 (0)2438 244230.

In the town of Jalgaon, the Hotel Plaza is a very sound choice, with tidy rooms at very reasonable (budget) rates. Next to this hotel is the competitively priced Silver Palace restaurant, recommended for its Indian and Chinese fare. Station Road; tel. +91 (0)257 222 7354; e-mail hotelplaza_jal@yahoo.com.

General Tips for Ajanta
The Ajanta Caves are closed on Mondays.

Flash photography is prohibited in the caves.

The caves can get very crowded on weekends and holidays, so try to visit on weekdays (and, if possible, plan your trip to avoid Indian holidays).

It's worth getting a guide at Ajanta. Make sure you hire a Government of India guide (ask for identification); you'll miss out on so much history—and so many interesting insights—if you explore the caves independently. Guided tours take around two hours and cost about $7.

For More Information
Government of India Tourist Office, Aurangabad Krishna Vilas, Station Road West, Aurangabad; tel. +91 (0)240 233 1217.
Maharashtra Travel Destination

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Ellora

Another World Heritage site, the 34 rock-cut caves of Ellora, carved halfway up a hill, are decorated with Buddhist, Hindu, and Jainist sculptures and paintings. The most striking carving is the massive, elaborately sculpted temple of Kailasa, which portrays Mount Kailasa, Lord Shiva's Himalayan dwelling.

Accommodations and restaurants at Ellora are meager, so it is best to use nearby Aurangabad (see above) as a base.

How to Get There
Frequent buses shuttle between Ellora and Aurangabad. You can also hire an autorickshaw or taxi, but make sure you negotiate a return fare that includes adequate waiting time at the caves.

How to Get Around
You explore the caves on foot.

Attractions
Although quite a few of Ellora's cave murals have unfortunately faded over time—largely due to dampness—the caves will still take your breath away. Many are multi-story, and the sheer number impresses. Perhaps Ellora's most noteworthy cave is the Kailasa Temple (also referred to as Kailasanatha and Cave 16), which is not only a brilliant feat of engineering (200,000 tons of rock had to be removed to create this temple), but also contains some magnificent sculptures that include scenes from the holy Hindu texts, the Ramayana and Mahabharata.

Places to Eat
The best eateries around Ellora are in the hotels. Aurangabad, 30 kilometers (19 miles) away, has a handful of good independent eateries, including:

The Tandoor Restaurant & Bar, which serves flavorful tandoori fare (cooked in a clay oven) in addition to traditional North Indian and Chinese dishes. Shyam Chambers, Station Road East, Aurangabad.

The atmospheric Food Lovers, which is a pleasant garden eatery with good Indian (primarily Punjabi) and Chinese food at fair prices. Station Road East, Aurangabad.

Places to Stay
There is only one hotel in Ellora that is worthy of recommendation: the pleasing Hotel Kailas, a complex of mid-priced stone-cobbled cottages set in a nice garden. Somewhat basically furnished but comfortable, many of the cottages have views of the caves. There is a restaurant on site. Ellora; tel. +91 (0)2437 244543.

If Hotel Kailas is full, it's best to stay in nearby Aurangabad, which has a good selection of hotels and restaurants.

The most lavish hotel in Aurangabad is the Taj Residency, set amid pretty landscaped gardens, which has a range of elegant rooms. All are modern and tastefully appointed, with all the trimmings you'd expect of a five-star property. Amenities include a swimming pool and a bundle of very good restaurants. Ajanta Road, Aurangabad; tel. +91 (0)240 238 1106; e-mail residency.aurangabad@tajhotels.com.

Also in Aurangabad is the mid-priced Hotel Classic, offering contemporary, well-maintained rooms and a good restaurant. Railway Station Road, Aurangabad; tel. +91 (0)240 562 4315.

General Tips for Ellora
The Ellora Caves are closed on Tuesdays.

The caves can get very crowded on weekends and holidays, so try to visit on weekdays (and, if possible, plan your trip to avoid Indian holidays).

It's worth hiring a government-approved guide (ask for identification) to really bring the caves to life; expect to pay around $7 for a two-hour guided tour.

For More Information
Government of India Tourist Office, Aurangabad Krishna Vilas, Station Road West, Aurangabad; tel. +91 (0)240 233 1217.
Maharashtra Travel Destination

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Nashik

Situated on the banks of the sacred Godavari River, Nashik attracts swarms of Hindu pilgrims each year, who gather here to not only take a dip in the propitious river water, but because legend has it that the highly revered Lord Rama periodically lived here. Apart from its numerous temples and bathing ghats (riverside steps/landing), this north Maharashtra town has, in recent times, emerged as one of India's major wine-producing hubs, thanks to its fertile ground and agreeable climate.

How to Get There
Nashik can be reached by bus and train from a range of towns. There are three main bus terminals in Nashik: the Old Central Bus Stand, which mainly services buses to the town of Trimbak, 20 miles (33 kilometers) west of Nashik; the New Central Bus Stand, which services Aurangabad and Pune; and the Mahamarg Bus Stand (hourly services to and from Mumbai). Nashik's train station is located around five miles (eight kilometers) southeast of the center.

How to Get Around
The most convenient and economical way is by autorickshaw or taxi.

Attractions
Nashik is dotted with many temples, including the 18th-century Kalaram, deemed the city's most sacred Hindu site, as well as the Panchavati gompa and the Sundar Narayan Temple.

The Sula Vineyards are situated about five miles (eight kilometers) southwest of Nashik and are open to tourists. This is one of India's pioneer vineyards, which launched its first wines in 2000; today the winery produces white, red, rosé, dessert, and sparkling wines. There is a stylish tasting room with views over the vineyard. To take a vineyard tour and sample some of the estate's wines, call ahead; tel. +91 (0)253 223 1663.

Places to Eat
Nashik has few restaurants—most are simple roadside eateries—so most travelers dine in the hotels.

One good possibility unaffiliated with a hotel is the Annapoorna Lunch Home, which features South Indian food such as dosas, idlis, and assorted vegetarian curries. MG Road.

For a minor splurge, try one of the restaurants at the Taj Residency hotel (described in the Places to Stay section, below): the Panchratna offers Indian and Chinese cuisine; the Garden Café dishes up Indian and continental fare; the dimly lit Somras Bar is just the place to kick back with a frosty cocktail. P-17 MIDC Ambad.

Places to Stay
Nashik has accommodations to suit all budgets.

The town's most upmarket hotel is the Taj Residency, set in well-tended gardens and with an inviting swimming pool and selection of good eateries. The rooms are modern, immaculate, and relatively posh. P-17 MIDC Ambad; tel. +91 (0)253 660 4499; e-mail residency.nashik@tajhotels.com.

In the mid-range is the Hotel Panchavati Yatri, which has clean, spacious rooms and a variety of decent restaurants. 430 Chandak Wadi; tel. +91 (0)253 257 8782.

One of Nashik's most appealing budget choices is the modest Hotel Abhishek, which has comfortable but plainly furnished rooms. Panchavati Karanja; tel. +91 (0)253 251 4201; e-mail hotabhi_nsk@sancharnet.in.

For More Information
MTDC Tourist Office Paryatan Bhavan, Old Agra Road; tel. +91 (0)253 257 0059.

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Goa

Apart from its dazzling palm-ringed beaches and famous—some would say infamous—party vibe, this erstwhile Portuguese colony is also known for its wealth of historic mansions and churches (Roman Catholicism still flourishes in Goa), lively markets, and endless stretches of green rice paddies and coconut-palm groves. Whether you're seeking somewhere secluded or a place to party all night, Goa has beaches to suit all moods.

How to Get There
The Dabolim airport, around 18 miles (30 kilometers) south of Panaji, the state's capital, is Goa's hub for domestic flights, including from Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore, and Chennai. The airport also services some international charter flights from the UK and Europe. Goa is also serviced by interstate bus and train lines.

How to Get Around
An extensive local bus network operates throughout the state. Taxis are another option. Some towns have motorcycle taxis (they have a yellow-colored front mudguard), which are quick and cheap. Autorickshaws also operate in a number of centers. Many travelers planning to stay in Goa for more than a week or two rent a motorcycle (rental prices increase during the peak tourist season, December–mid-January); bring along your international driver's license. Bicycles can also be rented in most towns.

Attractions
Goa's gorgeous beaches have long been a magnet for travelers from around the globe. The most popular northern beaches include Candolim, Calangute, Baga, Anjuna, Vagator, and Arambol. The lesser-known Asvem, Morjim, and Mandrem beaches may offer a more mellow experience. The southern beaches, which generally are quieter than those to the north, include Colva, Bogmalo, Benaulim, Agonda, Varca, Palolem, and Patnem.

The former capital of Portuguese-administered Goa, Old Goa has a number of wonderful colonial-era cathedrals and churches. Must-sees include the Se Cathedral (Old Goa's biggest church), the Basilica of Bom Jesus (which houses the tomb and remains of St. Francis Xavier), and the Church of St. Francis of Assisi.

Overlooking the sea, the 17th-century, Portuguese-built Fort Aguada is worth visiting not only to see its remains—which include a large moat—but to enjoy its panoramic views.

You can briefly experience the old Portuguese lifestyle with a visit to the sublime Braganza House, located in the village of Chandor (not far from Margao). There is no admission fee; donations at the end of your tour help maintain the 17th-century building.

Although it's mega-touristy, the bustling Anjuna Flea Market, which started out as an informal hippie market, is still lots of fun, packed with stalls selling beach bags, T-shirts, spices, bedspreads, sarongs, silver jewelry, and more. The market takes place in Anjuna every Wednesday.

Places to Eat
Goa has oodles of restaurants and bars, from simple beach shacks to fancy French and Italian restaurants; seafood is the focus of many menus. The restaurants mentioned below offer a representative selection.

The unpretentious, beach-fronting Souza Lobo has long had a sterling reputation when it comes to seafood. Whether it is calamari, fish, tiger prawns, lobster, or mussels, this place grills, bakes, sizzles, and fries them all with pizzazz. Apart from being delicious, the prices are also appetizing. Calangute Beach, Calangute.

For a special night out, Fiesta is heartily recommended. Specializing in Italian food, this classy place has a romantic feel to it, thanks to the outdoor setting in a landscaped garden. The food includes some of the best homemade pizzas and pastas to be found in Goa. After dinner, pop across the road to party at Tito's nightclub. Advance bookings for Fiesta are highly recommended. Tito's Road, Baga; tel. +91 (0)832 227 9894.

If you're staying in Vagator, try the wholesome Bean Me Up, a "soya station" that serves inventive vegetarian fare, including tasty tofu-based dishes. House No. 1639/2 Deul Vaddo, Vagator village.

The Sea Pearl Hotel, in Colva, has scrumptious seafood preparations, from grilled pomfret (a type of flat fish) to butter-garlic prawns. Off Colva Beach Road, Colva.

Those based in Palolem or Patnem can enjoy an alfresco breakfast or lunch at Home, an immensely relaxed beach shack where you can sink your toes into the sandy floor as you devour yummy European-inspired dishes. Patnem Beach, Patnem.

Places to Stay
Goa is choc-a-bloc with places to stay, spanning all price brackets. You can also rent furnished apartments, which are worth considering if you plan to stay for a month or more. The following is just a small selection of the many praiseworthy guesthouses and hotels to be found in Goa.

Most travelers base themselves near the prime beaches. Top-end offerings in Sinquerim, the southern end of Candolim, include two luxury Taj resort properties, the beachside Taj Holiday Village and the neighboring Fort Aguada Beach Resort. They are both exceptional: The former, comprised of luxury cottages and villas, has more of a resort flavor; the latter, Fort Aguada Beach Resort, also features cottages and villas, and lies by the ramparts of the 16th-century Fort Aguada. The hotels share a number of amenities, including fine restaurants and a world-class spa. Sinquerim Beach; tel. +91 (0)832 564 5858.

In Calangute, one of the better mid-range places is the Hotel Golden Eye. Its biggest attraction is its location along the beach. The rooms are well kept; the pricier ones are larger and better furnished. Calangute Beach; tel. +91 (0)832 227 7308.

The three-star Hotel Silver Sands Beach Resort in Colva offers respectable rooms, many with a pool or sea view. Some rooms can be a bit on the small side but are otherwise comfortable enough. There are two eateries: Sand Pebbles (Indian and continental food) and Crossroads (a poolside coffee shop). For a cold beer, head to the hotel's bar, Intoxication. Colva Beach; tel. +91 (0)832 278 8099.

The sea-fronting Sterling Vagator Beach Resort falls in the mid-range category. It has a selection of pleasant Portuguese-inspired rooms and cottages set among palm trees. All rooms are equipped with color televisions, tea- and coffee-making facilities, and mini-bars. On site are a pool and restaurant. Vagator Beach; tel. +91 (0)832 227 3276.

The mid-priced Palm Grove Cottages, in Benaulim, offer cottage-style accommodations in a lush garden. It's worth paying a bit more to get one of the newer rooms. The restaurant serves Indian, Chinese, and continental cuisine. Off Vasvaddo Beach Road, Benaulim; tel. +91 (0)832 277 0059.

If you wish to visit Goa state's capital, Panaji (formerly called Panjim), you can't beat the character-filled, mid-priced Panjim Inn. This 19th-century building features Old World-style rooms with four-poster beds, as well as a relaxing balcony restaurant. The same proprietors run the nearby (equally good but smaller) Panjim Pousada, which has an art gallery downstairs. 31st January Road, Panjim; tel. +91 (0)832 222 6523.

General Tips for Goa
Accommodation rates skyrocket at the height of the tourist season (between December and mid-January), so it is worth planning a visit to Goa outside these months.

Drugs remain an issue in Goa's beach communities and penalties for drug use or possession, even for small amounts, are severe. For more information, and other safety tips for Goa, visit this website.

For More Information
Goa Tourism Development Corporation
Go Goa

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